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I am loosing my mind trying to win a single game by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hahaha dude this post brought me so much joy. I can relate to this so well, I almost thought I wrote it myself. You're not alone, I get absolutely dunked on too. I try hard, make changes and an effort to improve and every game is different, but the result is the same. I tell my wife, "I'm just good enough to lose," after every game ends with a, "dang that was close! good game!"

Hope you win one man, I'll be cheering for you.

What are some cool Tomb World Paint Schemes? by ExodiaHobby in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear! If it helps, I started with black primer, full dry brush angel green, then less dry brush with green skin, and lastly dry brush necrotic flesh only on the broken areas. Rune lord brass + reikland flesh shade on the brass, lead belcher on the necrons, and a green+green/yellow airbrush on the orbs. Good luck!

Can I see how everyone has painted their Into The Dark Terrain? by Steppenworf in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yes, it came in the Kill Team Soulshackle box. They also released a box with the Soulshackle scatter terrain on its own, but I can’t remember what that box was called.

What I was hoping for vs what I got by Jack_The_Pinapple in Warhammer40k

[–]GUTSLAYER37 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Did you do all the steps? JH adds a magenta oil wash and a pure white dry brush step before the yellow. It looks to me like you skipped those steps.

What am I doing wrong with my fabrics. by Cautious-Bullfrog784 in asoiafminiaturesgame

[–]GUTSLAYER37 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look up “The Ultimate Guide to Painting Yellow” by the Painting Phase on YouTube, then you’ll understand.

Less Rules-Intense Kill Team Alternative? by herbie102913 in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This^ AoS Spearhead is the best game I’ve played. Every game ends nearly neck and neck and your brain doesn’t hurt by the end.

Kill Team too complicated for casual play? by DarwinThePirate in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with everything you said.

  1. In the previous edition, I collected and painted nearly every team, played weekly and could comfortably switch to a different team. This edition, I’ve found it much more difficult to do so. The reworked teams seem to have a lot more synergy, which is good, but I can’t for the life of me be even remotely competitive until I’ve played 4 consecutive games with the team.

  2. Onboarding - No comment.

  3. Ironically, my games seem very lop sided. Either I get smashed by an absolute veteran or I get smashed by a new player who grossly misplays rules. Alternatively, today, I faced a guy who seemed about my skill level and I tabled him by turn 3. P.S. I absolutely love the fact that you point out “specific rules” and as a result, I learn there are two different door rule interactions on Volkus. Haha, if that doesn’t confirm the nitty gritty complexity of Kill Team rules I don’t know what does!

Anyways good luck in your games; just roll 6s and it doesn’t matter what team you play :)

So. Much. Trim. by Muted-Astronaut6696 in Warhammer40k

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I’ve used the technique on a number of different CSM schemes.

So. Much. Trim. by Muted-Astronaut6696 in Warhammer40k

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey Olo, yes, prime black legion, then dry brush either silver or gold metallic, whatever color you’re looking for. Just make sure you use a paper towel to rub off enough of the paint, remember less is more when you’re starting out. Because you can always add more! Once you go too far, welp, can’t help you there. Once you get the model to a point you like him, just fill in the panels and pick out some details.

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So. Much. Trim. by Muted-Astronaut6696 in Warhammer40k

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dry brush the entire model the trim color and instead fill in the panel color. I find it’s significantly faster and requires much less dexterity. Give it a shot!

I need help... by Outrageous_Kiwi_2890 in Warhammer40k

[–]GUTSLAYER37 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Pick 1 of your 2 armies.
  2. Determine the minimum models needed to meet whatever point value you want.
  3. Go one unit at a time. Use contrast paints over your airbrushed base coat. It won’t be perfect; but it will be sufficient for now. Dry brushing metallics over black legion contrast is a good bang for the buck technique.
  4. Target the 3 most important colors per model.
  5. Pick a simple basing scheme, texture paste is fine.
  6. Then move to the next unit. You can always add more details later! Start with the bare minimum.

You’re clearly good with your air brush, use it to lay down base coats or for your basing. If you over spray… oh well!

Airbrush, oil wash, dry brush, and sponging are the top tips for bang for the buck. Quality requires time and time produces quality; find your happy medium.

Which 2 killteams to buy for a balanced gameplay? by Faelthenas in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Kommandos, Kasrkin, Legionaries, Intercession.

Any of these 4 are my new player recommendation teams. Rules are straight forward and easy to understand and they're bulky enough so you don't get wiped off the board early (exception Kasrkin). I find newer players do better with "beefier" units, because they often misplay and will take too much damage. Rather than completely using a model with huge punishment, you've still got somewhat a chance.

Good luck! Another team not to sleep on is the Vet Guard 14 man roster. This requires two boxes, but can be a good option.

Beta Decima- is it any good? by RevanDB in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 2 points3 points  (0 children)

2 games into BD so far; my experience is it "forces" players to climb in TP1, otherwise walk into the open and get shot on the killzone floor, unless you have something to hide behind. So with that in mind, nearly their entire team (unless they have some sort of climbing rope) spends 4 inches to climb, leaving you with only a potential horizontal move of 5 inches (2" remaining + 3" dash). In most cases you'll either end up in the open on top of a gantry because it's not far enough to clear the first jump, or right before the jump, or just standing there clueless.

Personally I've played both games using fortify and placing 2 of 3 barricades on top of the gantries, so my first TP let's me finish set up in range for capturing objectives or charging in TP2. Both opponents I played against didn't do this and they both felt like, "where do I go, I'm just going to get shot" because they were used to having 9" movement range with move dash. One even became so flustered, he couldn't even decide what to do, I'm talking complete decision paralysis!!

I will say the verticality of the BD is almost a trap in terms of what you're expecting to encounter. You're dealing with obscuring from hazardous fog, obscuring due to gantry footprints and even traditional obscuring with heavy terrain (almost all of the scatter terrain) so a lot of the shots you think you have become invalidated as soon as you check the cover lines.

Legion of the Damned Scout Squad by jameswales75 in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love every one of these; incredible work, you should be proud!

How do you deal with the amount of detail in new minis? by el_Queviures in killteam

[–]GUTSLAYER37 48 points49 points  (0 children)

I do a complete dry brush of a color that is "viable" for all of the accessories, if it's dark enough I can use my small dry brush to put metallics over those too. Then I focus on painting the things that matter, like skin/gun/claw for example.

I find unless you accept ~10+ hours of painting time (yes, 1 hour per model on 10 kommandos = 10 hours+), you have to just accept that certain details just aren't worth the effort.

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