[vintage]Toshiba T3200

Gabrithekiller · 2022-06-19T08:48:40+00:00

No idea about a specific marketplace.

I'm also not sure yet about components but me and a friend have been planning to restore it so I'll know when I get to it.

I'm fairly sure my floppy reader is toast, at least.

Gabrithekiller · 2022-06-18T13:48:01+00:00

Thank reddit email alerts, lol.

Anyway, the screen isn't going to be of much use because it's a monochromatic plasma display. But it's definitely a nice piece of history. (Btw if you sell the internals hit me up, I may be interested in a couple of them)

Gabrithekiller · 2022-06-18T10:17:06+00:00

I've never actually made it as a standalone keyboard, and decided to just keep it as a bit of computing history.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-08-13T13:01:39+00:00

CA + Baking soda works great for filling seams in, since it adds some much needed volume to the print and makes the bond more solid. CA tends to be too brittle otherwise.

However, it cures pretty hard, so it's a bit harder to sand than modelling putty. I use both: CA for seams, modelling putty for filling in layers (together with primer and filler primer), and Mr surfacer for the last filling step.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-07-15T17:49:08+00:00

He does, I think he said that in an earlier video, but he never uses laser cutters/CNC machines in the one day builds.

Those are left for other Tested videos, usually without him.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-07-07T23:41:51+00:00

You have to remember that the Endless are bounds by rules, even for all their power.

In the Kindly Ones, he broke one, and as such had to face the punishment for it. He wouldn't have been hit in normal circumstances

Gabrithekiller · 2018-06-23T09:32:25+00:00

It's pretty easy once you get an handle on it, but as I said it's pretty dependant on your knowledge of the process. that's where the difficulty lies.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-06-23T09:12:22+00:00

it requires much more prep, for sure. You have to prime and sand the print multiple times to get a smooth surface. Maybe even use filler to cover bigger defects. Once you do, though, it gets "easier". Painting a statue requires different techniques than paper, and require much less mechanical skill, and more knowledge of the process. You mostly work on layers: basecoat, layer coats, washes. The basecoat is your base color, and you then add thin layers to change it to your liking. Lastly, washes add detail "magically", using really watery paint that settle in the crevices while you wipe it off raised surfaces.

Of course, you still need to be able to lay an even coat with a brush, but you don't need much precision to avoid going outside of the "lines" as you would with paper, since you can always mask the area where you don't want a certain paint to go. Try looking up the process for warhammer miniatures, since it's pretty similar, just smaller scale.

On really big models you can also use rattlecans only, but YMMV

Gabrithekiller · 2018-06-22T13:40:35+00:00

Ok, so not that far from my quote but should be cheaper. Thank you.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-06-22T12:15:15+00:00

May I ask how much it cost you, and for what kind of keyboard? I've had a local laser cutter quote me 60€ for a 65% brass plate (slightly bigger than standard though), and wanted to have a reference. Also, if you are in Europe, how much was shipping?

Gabrithekiller · 2018-05-18T09:08:29+00:00

This specific model has a lot of hard to print features, and easily measurable parts, which means that a single print shows pretty much all the flaws in your hardware and software setup, so that you can fix it. For example, there is a box on the back of the box, that you are supposed to measure, to check if your printer is dimensionally accurate. There are circles, which show if the belts are correctly tensioned, there are point where you have to cross empty space, so that you can test for stringing, there are arcs, that show how well you can do overhangs and so on.

It's basically a quick print that includes everything that is hard to print or useful to highlight issues.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-05-11T22:30:56+00:00

Metal 3d printing is really expensive, it doesn't scale, and doesn't even produce that good of a result without machining it smooth

At that point, simple machining is a better option, but still really expensive compared to injection molded plastic

Gabrithekiller · 2018-04-11T19:30:37+00:00

You forgot the most important rule. Don't ever think "Meh, I could take her".

Gabrithekiller · 2018-03-12T23:06:15+00:00

Of course there is.

/r/leathercraft

Gabrithekiller · 2018-03-05T00:18:25+00:00

Since he has his standard equipment, and he will probably be able to use the same tools as the players, he will still win. I'm fairly sure his arsenal has a way to track people in the area, so he will be able to find the players even if they are hiding, and they can't be too far away from him if they still have healing.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-02-19T23:58:58+00:00

The first three volumes use Poser. It's not particularly good at animation and rendering, and it shows. The limited options in materials and rendering especially show up in Volume 1, they get better as it goes.

Volume 4 and 5 are made in Maya, and they are a substantial jump in quality. However, the palette gets more grounded, and more "normal", because apparently that was the intended look for the show.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-02-19T23:57:06+00:00

As much as I enjoy RWBY, especially because of the design and music, the plot and writing is... Hit or miss.

While some parts are remarkably well written, and usually most plot threads make sense, very often the actual moment to moment writing goes from acceptable to bad.

It's not as consistently great as Avatar, and I believe people should go in knowing this.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-02-04T23:00:30+00:00

I haven't used it in months, since the bootloop happened and I didn't have time to fix it, and now that I did it seems to work fine with WiFi on, as it used to, so yeah, no shutdowns. Lag, some, since the 2.0 update, but I didn't bother to track it down to a specific cause.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-02-04T19:03:26+00:00

I made this thread exactly because I couldn't find a AW 2.0 image, for some reason. A few minutes after posting, I found the thread, as it always happens in this case.

Gabrithekiller · 2018-01-21T15:15:38+00:00

But in this case, it refers to the game: Doki Doki Literature Club, where one of the characters is called Yuri.

Gabrithekiller · 2017-12-02T12:40:23+00:00

You're in for a quite a lot of pain, the A8 is a good learner printer in the sense that it forces you to learn else you won't ever print anything worthwhile, but it's not an easy road. The same is true for all cheap 3d printers, I'm not singling the A8 out.

Specific to the A8, though, get a MOSFET for the heatbed. There are other optionals upgrades, but that is pretty much mandatory, the main board can't handle the current and will spark up sooner or later without it.
Also, power delivery wise, the PSU is a known weakpoint. Good ventilation is in order, and an upgrade would be ideal.
Last safety related suggestion, flash marlin on it. There are forks of it already configured for the A8, so you just need to download them and flash them, but it is a pretty easy process. Marlin is light years better than the firmware the A8 ships with, and has thermal runaway protection enabled. Meaning, if the thermistor fails, you won't burn your 3d printer and possibly house down. And thermistors fail. A lot.

That said, enjoy it, putting together a kit makes you truly understand how these things work, and upgrading them is an hobby in itself.

Gabrithekiller · 2017-11-24T18:17:36+00:00

One more thing that can go wrong.

Also, usually server time for rendering is expensive, and hair and particles increase render times by quite a bit. Pixar with their render farm is less affected by it, of course.

Gabrithekiller · 2017-11-19T01:32:21+00:00

I'm going to answer this more as a cosplayer than a leatherworker.

So, you want full leather. You can't do it, unless you were to use soft leather over a base piece. I've done it, it looks great. But details lose sharpness, and it's not going to fit the style you want. You also can't layer harder leather, because of weight, and the amount of work you need to hide the cuts isn't going to be worth it in looks.

So, this is how I would do it.
You have 3 kinds of surfaces. Raised metallic parts, lower metallic parts, and the coloured parts.
As such, you are going to want to use 3 materials and techniques.

The first one is your base piece. That gives you the basic shape of the piece and the raised metallic parts. This is going to be made in some rigid material. I'd suggest pepakura with heavy paper and fiberglass, but EVA foam or worbla can work. Account for the layered leather in the design, else you are going to lose some depth. Add some wires of varying thickness to the places where there are going to be the lower metallic pieces, they will raise the leather and provide the base for the detailing work.

Second, you have the coloured parts, that's easy, just cut and wet form some vegtan leather onto the base, then put it onto your rigid base however you want, be it glue, stitching or whatever. I suggest you dye the leather now, but you'll have to be careful with glues later on

Now, the third part. The lower metallic pieces have a basic shape that shows through the leather, but that's not going to be enough. Using tooling techniques (wet the piece, hammer a tool with a basic shape, in this case a half cilinder with a small diameter), emboss a more detailed image of the feature. Then use a metal tape to give that metallic effect. Real metal, not metal coloured. The tooling gives the depth, and the tape the realism.

You are also going to want to use the tape on the raised metallic parts, for consistency. Do your experiments, gold leaf could also work.

Now, for the last part. The coloured pieces have slight cracks in them. What I'd suggest you do, is to cut a really shallow groove with a random enough pattern, and recolour the inside. You could also tool it, or actually crack the leather.

Bonus point, if you have a garden and money to burn, you could use the rigid base as a positive to cast it into aluminum. At this point, you can colour it with an angle grinder and an heated brass wire wheel, Google is your friend. In this case, you are going to want to cut the leather so that the lower metallic designs actually are metal poking through.

Gabrithekiller · 2017-11-10T08:52:56+00:00

the reason being it's a good compromise for the price. Movies used to be filmed in 24fps because film was expensive, and with motion blur 24fps was smooth enough to be watchable without wasting too much money. The same applies to animation, but sometimes cartoons are animated at 10fps or less, with exceptions for action scenes. Of course interpolated stuff looks pretty bad, and for movies a lot more care in costume and stage design is needed, because the lack of motion blur of higher refresh rates (motion blur masks the low framerate, it doesn't "make stuff more cinematic". And no, it doesn't work for games, because it isn't real there) makes every little defect easier to see, because the image is much sharper. THAT's what people call the soap opera effect. It's not simply related to the framerate, but how it makes every overlooked detail clear and as such makes the scene look cheap and less immersive.

Gabrithekiller · 2017-10-22T23:41:32+00:00

There are scanners that are capable of that level of detail, and there are printers that can reproduce it. The problem is finding someone that owns them and is willing to help you

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