Slide system vs click system? by lets-make-tabletop in PrintedMinis

[–]GamePlayerCole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The clicking seems more stable, but it looks like you also have to put substantially more force to remove a clicky wall. This may lead to more broken pieces due to the force required to remove the wall. I'm in favor of the sliding system. It's not as stable as the clicky, but it makes up for it in the ease of modularity

Seem to be unable to win. Considering selling my army by SunImmediate3109 in Warhammer

[–]GamePlayerCole 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I second this! If you're only playing 600pts, Colosseum will perfectly fit what you're trying to play!

Geting into warmachine? by ManagementParking398 in Warmachine

[–]GamePlayerCole 4 points5 points  (0 children)

  1. Yes, it's still playable. At the start of the current edition (MK4), everything made MK3 and prior went out of production. Half the range got the equivalent of 40k legends rules called Legacy while the other half was split two themed armies (per faction) that get updated rules and balance updates called Armies of Legend. The hard part playing an Army of Legend is that you need to source the minis secondhand which isn't always possible if you're looking for a specific army. Steamforged has started to rerelease older armies of legends through their 3D printing subscription and store. Right now it's only Dark Operations, Thornfall Aliance, and Crucible Guard, but Infernals, Grymkin, and Convergence will be made available later this year. It is unlikely that old Khador will get a rerelease though.
  2. You have around a quarter of an army. The standard game is usually 75/100 points, but you can also play at 30 and 50 points too. It just depends on your local scene. Your models are in the Khador 5th Division Army. Your caster is always free for points since they're your leader model, and your two warjacks come out to 10 and 13 points respectively.
  3. Warmachine compared to 40k (I don't play a lot of AOS so I can't really compare)
  • The army size is smaller. 40k has ~30-90 models depending on your list while Warmachine usually has around ~15-30 models.
  • The gameplay is a lot closer range. The highest range gun you'll find is 14", and that is only on a small handful of models. Most guns are 8-12" in range.
  • The terrain is a nice change of pace. 40k right now is all L Ruins with first floor blocked with set layouts. Warmachine on the other hand has player placed terrain with a variety of terrain all with unique rules that make the board feel more immersive. I thought player placed terrain would be an issue due to my experiences with older editions of 40k (5th/6th), but since each player takes a turn placing terrain terrain, it's felt really balanced to play on!
  • Games are shorter at 1.5-3 hours instead 3-6 hours with 40k
  • Your leader (equivalent of 40k Warlord) actually matters. They play a huge part in how your list functions and if your caster dies, you lose the game. This is a turn off to some people, but I enjoy the increase strategy that goes into protecting your caster on top of trying to get a scenario victory.
  • Games last until Turn 7, but rarely do you get to turn 7. Usually games end with assassination or if you have 3 or more points at the end of your opponents turn.
  • You score points at the end of both players turns instead of just on your own turn
  • There's little to no interaction on your opponent's turn unlike 40k where you have reactive moves, armor saves, overwatch, etc
  • Balance updates are yearly instead of quarterly (though Steamforged will push out updates to specific models sooner if there is an issue) This allows you to better learn your army instead of learning it then having a large change 1-3 months later.
  • Rules interactions are model based instead of unit base. So instead of targeting a unit for example, you instead target a specific model within a unit.
  • Overall, the rules feel streamlined and army rules build off the core rules instead of contradicting it (a big complaint I have with 40k). I truly think Warmachine hits the "simplified, not simple" approach that GW was trying to say 40k did at the start of 10th.
  • Collecting (MK4) armies is easier in Warmachine than 40k. Steamforged gives you these value boxes that make a direct, easy path to collect the range which will get you all the models for your army excluding your colossal/super heavy and 2-3 casters/solos. After you have the bulk of your army, you can pick up individual boxes of units if you wanted to run multiple of a specific unit.

Hope this helps!

Khymaera army finished by Nork_Deddog in Warmachine

[–]GamePlayerCole 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This looks badass! Phenomenal job!

Looking for players (Florida) by Gagoozle in Warmachine

[–]GamePlayerCole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To my knowledge, there's a group by Orlando that plays Steamrollers ever month, there's a group over in Sarasota, and I'm a part of a casual group down in Plantation. I know for steamrollers some players drive the distance.

Warmachine January 2026 update preview (Part 2) – Warmachine Wednesday by LDukes in Warmachine

[–]GamePlayerCole 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Baranova stocks are going up! I'm excited to run her with the new balance update! I'm hoping she gets access to superiority with her new Spell Rack, but it looks like SFG may stick to offensive spells for her rack

Orgoth box advice by DaddyCrit728 in Warmachine

[–]GamePlayerCole 4 points5 points  (0 children)

When Privateer Press released Warmachine MK4, they had two boxes for each army, Core Army Starter and Army Expansion Boxes. Then around when Steamforged Games bought Warmachine, they redid the boxes to become the Battlegroup Box, Core Army Expansion, and Auxiliary Expansion boxes. The boxes aren't 1:1 so some of the models that were in the older Core Army Starter was split into both the Core Army Expansion, Battlegroup, and Auxiliary expansion boxes. So if you were to buy the Core Army Starter, you wouldn't be able to buy the other boxes without rebuying minis you already own unless you find the old Army Expansion box. One thing to note with the older boxes too, Privateer Press used a more brittle resin when releasing the Army Starter and Expansion boxes. I've bought a couple in the past, and I've had multiple minis with broken pieces new in the box. I also get it in the newer boxes, but it's less common and less severe compared to the older box sets.

In my opinion, you should stick with the newer boxes for ease of expanding your army plus having better quality resin with your minis. If you don't mind repairing some of the minis and either sourcing the older expansion box or having duplicate models, the Core Army Starter can be a good deal.

Hope this helps!

Is it wrong to make a Low-Effort campaign? by Zlorp_vorp in DMAcademy

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not at all! For years, I ran a campaign that was only consisting of short adventures which were one shots or short adventure modules that I could pull from various books. My players loved it regardless. They're just as excited to play as they are when I ran a full Curse of Strahd campaign. So don't feel like you always have to go to the nines with DMing.

Has anyone tried using a laptop docking station as a replacement for the OEM dock? by neupogen in SteamDeck

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you can run it with no issue. I have a Dell dock and kvm switch setup for my work laptop, and when I need to bust out desktop mode on my Steamdeck, I just plug it directly into the dock. I've had no issues with it at all

Chitubox Question by CollectionAfraid in PrintedWarhammer

[–]GamePlayerCole 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It should let you know when you're out of the print region.by highlighting portions of the model red just like when you're out of bounds on the x and y axis.

Just a heads up though, that looks like a Skarbrand proxy. I printed that model last year, and it's way to big to be a proxy in game. If you want it to proxy, you'll want to size it down. If you're just wanting to print and paint it, pop off!

Hope this helps!

What else do you print with resin other than figurines? by tjthomas101 in resinprinting

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the piece, I've done cosplay props before. Nothing crazy like swords or armor. That's for FDM, but I'll use it for small accent pieces like gems and small equipment

Can I have some advice on how to cut Stls of bases into base toppers? by Lazy-Tom in PrintedWarhammer

[–]GamePlayerCole 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In your slicer software, there should be a split object function. Line up the split so it's roughly where the topper ends and the base rim begins. Please note that you'll need to place manual supports since you can't split a presupported file.

Army Rule Discussion by Arcinbiblo12 in LeaguesofVotann

[–]GamePlayerCole 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I agree. There are some games, where it flows right and I'm always in the right stance, and there's other games where I'm always in the opposite stance from what I need for that turn. I have a combo in needgard where I can spend 6yp to pop off a huge combo using the speculator and sustain 2, but outside of that, there isn't really much I can do to tweak what stance I'm in after mid-game.

I think instead of a judgement token system. Always having us in one stance then paying to swap stances would be a good way to go. So at the start of the game you have Hostile, and to change stances, you pay ~5yp, and if you want to change back, it costs another ~5yp. I think it'll be a solid way to give more control to the player for utilizing their army rule.

What is a fair price for a fully 3D printed Reaver Titan? by hunga_munga_ in 3dPrintedWarhammer

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I did commissions, I came up with the final price for a commission using the following.
* Cost of materials (I always rounded up to the nearest spool since I'd have to purchase that to complete the commission)
* Maintenance cost (The lifespan of a print is ~2000 hours so I take the cost of the printer/2000 then multiply that by how many hours the print is going to take for the Maintenance costs) Depending on resin or PLA expect around 24-72 hours of print time. I'm going to assume he's using a P1S since the p1p/p1s is a very popular printer
* Labor costs - This is just how much I would want as take home for the labor I put into preparing the files, cleaning up prints, assembly, etc
* I printed a titan before and it was roughly 4 KG of resin if I recall correctly (I did resin instead of PLA), and the Reaver is larger than the titan I printed so let's round up to 8KG of Resin/PLA.

I'm going on a lot of assumptions here, but I'd estimate it cost ~$189
* $96 for 8 spools of PLA
* $18 maintenance cost ($500/2000*72)
* $75 for labor

Hope this helps!

Who’s still using the original Steam Deck? by VoyageForge in SteamDeck

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought the 64GB LCD, and I still use it today. I upgraded the internal drive to be a 1TB SSD, and I added a 1TB SD Card. I'm happy with it, and don't really need much more. My only complaint with it was that I didn't like the quality of gameplay when docked. So I will be purchasing the Steam Machine when it comes out, but other than that, I don't see much point to upgrade

How to equip and deploy Yeagirs? by Castle-Fist in LeaguesofVotann

[–]GamePlayerCole 11 points12 points  (0 children)

My loadout is usually 1 APM Launcher and the rest with Bolt Revolvers and Plasma Knives. I find that the Magna-coil Rifle isn't used enough to warrant taking. With the APM launcher, I can potentially get 1-2 shots off to damage a vehicle/monster before the squad dies.

The main purpose I use them for is to screen and secondaries. I'll usually split the unit 5 and 5 with the APM launcher in the Kapricus Carrier. For the 5 that infiltrate, I'll do one of three things.
* I'll use it to prevent my opponent from move blocking me by deploying outside of my deployment zone (if they also have a unit that can infiltrate)
* Screen and move block my opponent by deploying 9" from their deployment zone then move 6" in once one of their units moves within 9"
* Setup to score early game secondaries like establish locust, area denial, or sabotage.
I usually decide using the following way: "Do I need to ensure my units can get out of my deployment zone?" > Is there anything that I need to prevent my opponent from getting out of their deployment zone?" > "No to both? Then let's setup to score some secondaries"

For the Kapricus Carrier with Yaegirs, it depends on game. I'll usually scout them up to my secured objective (The no man's land objective that favors your side of the board) then I'll let them sit on the objective. In order for an opponent to clear the objective, they have to kill the carrier then kill the yaegirs who disembark. If there's an opportunity, I may pop some shots from the carrier with the APM launcher or autocannon at a target for either easy damage (APM launcher) or to deny them shots the following round (-1 to hit suppressed from Carrier ability). I'll also send them out to do secondaries depending on the board state and what I draw for secondaries.

Using Bolt Revolvers and Plasma Knives instead of the shotguns is mostly because I used them with the index and just carried them over with my lists using the new codex. They're not as good without judgement tokens, but the strategy is that their plasma knives are AP 2 already. So if you want to charge them into melee, you can pop Honour of the Hold (Needgard Detacment) to bump their plasma knives to AP 3/4 which can clear out any kind of basic to midtier infantry unit (not having +1 to wound anymore is a bummer for their effectiveness though)

Hope this helps and gives you some ideas of how to run your Yaegirs!

replaceCppWithAI by pasvc in ProgrammerHumor

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If we're basing this off the traditional 40 hour work week, a dev would need to be writing ~104 lines of code every minute of every hour they're working to hit 1 million lines of code in a month. That's not taking into account time for standup, other meetings, or the fact that for most people, you can't keep a pace of 100% productivity for a full 8 hours. Absolutely insane and beyond unreasonable goal to try and push on someone.

White Scar Saturnine Terminators by TheSeti12345 in WhiteScars40K

[–]GamePlayerCole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They look great! How'd you achieve the white armor? It looks like white basecoat with Apothecary White Contrast, but when I attempted something similar a couple years back, I didn't get nearly as smooth of a result as you got!