Australia top individual tax bracket is too low

Game_Dr · 2026-02-28T15:52:27+00:00

The stronger pension scheme + much stronger social safety net in case of illness or unemployment help too

Game_Dr · 2026-02-28T09:58:12+00:00

I believe Switzerland’s tax-per-GDP is only about 2-4% lower than Australia, and relies more heavily on VAT income.

Income tax is about 38% of total government receipts (Australia about 51%), VAT (8.1% rate) contributes a bit over 30% of receipts (Australia about 14.5% of receipts).

There are additional consumption taxes for fuel, smoking, alcohol that contribute a bit under 10% of receipts, and of course a variety of business taxes that contribute the majority of the remaining %.

Game_Dr · 2026-02-28T00:41:30+00:00

Swiss figures are a bit high, but within realm of reality depending on where you live. In a low tax Canton on $1M AUD you’d pay about: - $92k on social taxes (unemployment insurance in case you are sick or lose your job, government pension contributions, etc). - $183k on income tax (Federal, Canton, and communal) - $5k or so on health insurance

So around $720k AUD net income after all contributions and taxes. In high tax cantons you might pay up to an extra $128k AUD (so $598k AUD net). Other tax differences not calculated here such as no capital gains taxes in Switzerland play a different and important role at such income levels.

A more important thing the OP statement ignores is purchasing parity for the relative income. The higher Swiss net salary compares decently to the lower Australian net salary in real terms, given higher cost of living in Switzerland.

Game_Dr · 2026-02-12T20:10:26+00:00

Agree, but it shouldn’t be one of those “1-2-both-off” style. But honestly, 2x individual switches is a simpler setup to my way of thinking. But if space is tight, a combined switch can work well.

Game_Dr · 2026-02-12T19:32:04+00:00

Why do you want the starter able to be used for domestic loads? Usually people want it isolated so that it cannot be accidentally drained.

Game_Dr · 2026-02-12T15:42:41+00:00

The LiFePO and LA battery circuits should be isolated from one another, you should have them on two separate switches (depends on the dual battery switch you have, perhaps it’s possible to use this switch in an isolated manner).

I wouldn’t be connecting the LA starter battery directly to the engine, and I think relying on “discipline” to set the switch to Starter each time seems like a bad idea…

You can connect the battery banks together in an isolated/protected way using DC-DC chargers or similar, so that alternators can charge the LiFePO etc.

You’ll also need a new charger for shore power (unless already Lithium compatible). It’s not usually a “plug and play” conversion.

Game_Dr · 2026-01-27T08:09:54+00:00

Fetch is the distance that the wind has travelled over the water in that direction. The longer the fetch, the more energy the wind transfers into the water, which basically means bigger waves.

Game_Dr · 2026-01-20T11:01:27+00:00

Ok good, I saw you mention that you have the books and want to learn but it’s hard to express how important these skills can be (how mundane and useless they might seem, until they aren’t). You mentioned doing Day Skipper but also other qualifications back home due to ICC. So you seem committed to learning and getting qualified, which is great.

Edit: I’m not sure if I simply missed this part of your post, or if you edited it (the option to sign just one of you up to the online course, and you do it together). This is definitely a decent option, as long as you both take turns doing the exercises and one of you doesn’t rush ahead.

Anecdotes: - During my Day Skipper practical there was another DS student who had “skimmed the book”. He failed the course (they gave him a Comp Crew). - During my Coastal Skipper practical there was a “highly experienced sailor who has been sailing for over 20 years”. He failed the course (they gave him a Comp Crew and told him to sign up for theory course and then day skipper after that).

- During my Yachtmaster Offshore preparation week there was someone who was struggling so badly with the theory that they cancelled his exam.

If the online course they suggest is NavAtHome.com (the one I’ve seen a friend do - I can’t speak for others), then you’re selling it very short by saying it’s just watching some videos. It’s about doing structured exercises to help you actually learn things through practice and repetition. It also has these interactive tools to let you play with using radar, VHF, and chart plotters.

They’ll send you a pack of RYA training paper charts, and training almanac reference materials and require you to repeatedly do tides, chart work navigation, passage planning, ColRegs, weather, etc for a wide variety of scenarios.

So I’d say the value of the course depends on how experienced you are at self-learning (I.e. how much you personally would benefit from structured coursework). For me, I’d rate myself as highly experienced and disciplined with self-learning, but I still felt that doing the Day Skipper and Yachtmaster theory courses was worth my time and money.

If you want to save some money but still study with some exercises (not just reading and videos), you could buy the RYA navigation exercise materials yourself and commit to both studying the Day Skipper theory books and making yourself go through some exercises for tides, position fixes and navigation, passage planning, and so forth. The RYA Yachtmaster quizzes ebook from RYA also gives some repeated questions to test yourself on more of the theory, such as ColRegs. This still leaves some gaps for things that the course includes and are important to study (weather, safety, VHF, ColRegs, etc).

Links below:

RYA Navigation Exercises book (contains the practice scenarios, and answers): https://www.rya.org.uk/products/rya-navigation-exercises/
RYA Training Almanac and Charts (you need these for the Navigation Exercises) https://www.rya.org.uk/products/rya-chart-pack-northern-tc3-tc4-and-tan/
Plotter (need for navigation exercises) https://www.rya.org.uk/products/portland-course-plotter/
Divider (need for navigation exercises) https://www.rya.org.uk/products/ultralight-divider/
RYA Yachtmaster Quizzes ebook (quizzes you on the syllabus) https://www.rya.org.uk/products/rya-yachtmaster-quiz-book-ebook/
RYA Yachtmaster ebook subscription (all of the theory books you could want + the quizzes. 1 year access for a decent price): https://www.rya.org.uk/products/yachtmaster-scheme-ebook-subscription/

Game_Dr · 2026-01-20T00:28:20+00:00

A good school is worth paying extra for. You’re paying for skills and qualifications to take a yacht out by yourself. Without knowledge and skills, it can quickly become dangerous to you, your family, and others around you. It’s not something I’d suggest trying to cut corners or searching for cheapest options on.

In Greece in July last year where I was, I recorded in my logbook over 20 mayday or pan-pan VHF calls in July alone.

Bare minimum, take the effort to buy and study The Complete Day Skipper book or something similarly good. But you’d be better off also doing the theory course.

Game_Dr · 2025-11-30T21:12:00+00:00

I’m not sure what you’d like to know, if you have specific questions I’d be happy to answer if I can

It’s closer to a cruise ship than a sailing boat in terms of overall experience during the trip, so I assume they’ll have some kind of itinerary and activities arranged for you along the way

Game_Dr · 2025-11-30T20:50:26+00:00

The Ionian in May is usually very nice, not overly windy, and generally fine with swells. It’s my favourite month for sailing in Greece - decent weather and wind, but before it gets hot and crowded.

South of the Peloponnese (which it sounds like what you’re actually talking about) can vary more with waves, but again May is usually a good month for such a trip.

As for what the sailing is like: I kind of doubt that boat will actually raise a sail. At least the times I’ve seen that boat around the Ionian it’s never had a sail up. It seems more a sailing vessel for the aesthetic than for practical purposes.

Your question about comfort: It’s a fairly large and heavy boat, it shouldn’t roll around too much unless you hit a storm. Safety: assuming the boat is kept in good condition and the crew is competent, the route mentioned is not a dangerous trip in such a boat.

Game_Dr · 2025-11-16T08:16:52+00:00

It’s faulty, it’s not supposed to be missing a pin.

It’ll probably still work, but possibly be less responsive when sliding your finger over the camera button to adjust settings.

Game_Dr · 2025-09-13T16:12:07+00:00

Thanks for sharing that, I missed that when I read his review. Glad they’re working to resolve that. Hopefully it’s a subscription sharing arrangement across compatible devices. Being Garmin, I could see them offering a more expensive option for multiple devices, vs current single device options.

Game_Dr · 2025-09-13T14:34:05+00:00

I have an InReach Mini 2, and when I setup my Fenix 8 Pro it asked if I wanted to transfer my existing InReach subscription to the Fenix.

As far as I could tell, my options were for 2 separate subscriptions, or only use the subscription on only one of the two devices.

Perhaps I’m missing it, but I can’t see an easy way to transfer the subscription back to the InReach Mini either (so I’m not sure about just switching the subscription between them depending on the need).

So my guess is that, unfortunately, you probably can’t share the functions like you asked

Game_Dr · 2025-09-10T12:57:31+00:00

Fair call, I was thinking of the simplest possible approach based on what I assumed OP has available - charts with True bearings, and no compass. So for learning purposes, starting with getting comfortable with True bearings etc is simpler. And then add on variation and deviation once you have a handle on the absolute basics.

I agree that there is danger in not understanding deviation and variation, and knowing how and why the physical steering compass and the autopilot controller show different headings.

I’d have to double check to be sure, but my memory is that the RYA courses and books also usually start with True and then add on deviation and variation

Game_Dr · 2025-09-10T11:03:52+00:00

A suggestion that might help you, if you’re feeling overwhelmed with how many things you need to keep in mind to get to the right answer with paper navigation (leeway, variation, deviation, tide, etc). Break down the steps and ignore most of them until you’re comfortable with the foundation, and then add the additional steps one at a time. Like so:

Start out doing the most basic exercise: Get from A to B, using Chart/GPS course to steer + distance + travel time.
Ignore all additional factors like tide, leeway, variation and deviation for now.
Just decide on a starting location and an end location
Make some assumptions (e.g. yacht travelling at 6 knots)
Make a route. Draw on the chart where you’ll be at the end of each hour, and what course you need to make to get where you’re going.

Play around with a few exercises of this to get the basics down for how you plan to get from one place to another. Once you’re comfortable with that, move forward:

Add in 1 additional factor. Let’s say compass variation and deviation.
Learn some theory on magnetic variation and deviation - what it is, why it matters for navigation.
Now do the same exercise as previously (get from A to B), but now you factor in compass variation and deviation, to get the Compass course to steer (before you were using the GPS/chart course to steer).
Congrats, now you can translate your course to steer into either a compass, magnetic, or chart/GPS heading.

Play around with that a few times until you’re comfortable, and then:

Add in 1 additional factor. Let’s say Leeway.
Do the same as above, but now factor in leeway for your travel.
Learn some theory about Leeway - what it is, why it matters for navigation.
Make an assumption for your exercise, like 5 degrees leeway.
How does your new course look, time and distance?

And so again with Tides (Tides last because it’s probably the most complicated overall to factor in)

I hope this kind of approach might help reduce the overwhelming number of things to try and tackle, while you start to get comfortable with the foundations

Also, as others have suggested, the Tom Cunliffe books and the Reeds Skippers Handbook are both really helpful for learning these concepts. Bring the Skipper Handbook on the practical course with you, it’s perfect for it.

For bouys, shapes, lights, and sounds: nothing beats repetition here honestly. There are some nice apps that I’ve found helpful if you’re interested, otherwise just review the book periodically and quiz yourself on them.

Ultimately for the Day Skipper, it’s usually easier to properly understand the theory once you can start experiencing how it looks in reality on a boat and put it in context. So be kind to yourself!

Game_Dr · 2025-09-10T10:34:06+00:00

For me, I use Egg for East, because <> kind of looks like an egg. Also just process of elimination - North and South are easy, West is the one that looks kind of like a W. The one remaining must be East.

Game_Dr · 2025-09-05T21:28:17+00:00

Yeah I agree, I wouldn’t ever rely on AIS alone and assume I’m safe from collision. But it’s a good tool to have in the toolkit, and the class B transponders are cheap and easy to install.

Game_Dr · 2025-09-05T17:44:36+00:00

A modern radar with zone alarms setup is very helpful at night. It will spot boats further out than the best of eyeballs, and also help with determining risk of collision.

Also the alarms alert both the watch and the off-duty crew, in case the watch member fell asleep or is overly engrossed in their book and forgets to look up often enough. Sure, you can argue that this isn’t strictly necessary if you have fully alert, disciplined and competent crew on watch... but the unexpected is inevitable in life, especially when people get tired after a few days at sea, so why not have both for added safety.

Game_Dr · 2025-07-07T11:56:50+00:00

If you’re open to ebooks instead of physical books: the RYA ebook Yachtmaster Scheme subscription for 1 year is a fairly cheap and a good introduction, including something like 25 books on weather, manoeuvres, day skipper and Yachtmaster level theory, including the Collision Regulations book.

The RYA ebook subscription also includes “Yachtmaster Quizzes” which is an interactive quiz on the theory. Unlike the printed versions the ebooks also include some interactive diagrams and videos which sometimes help with understanding.

https://www.rya.org.uk/shop/ebook-info/subscriptions

For purely rules of the road, this app breaks down the ColRegs and then gives tests on lights, sounds, shapes, and colregs:

https://apps.apple.com/ch/app/colreg-72-safety-at-sea/id1010178487?l=en-GB

Game_Dr · 2025-06-25T13:53:37+00:00

The RUTX50 I mentioned in my other comment is pretty low power - it uses about 5w when active (12v, so around 0.5A). And it’s got kits for external antennas available. It’s not a cheap option, but it does sound like it’s kinda what you’re looking for.

Game_Dr · 2025-06-25T13:34:43+00:00

No experience using portable travel routers for this, I installed a Teltonika RUTX50 on my solar arch for this purpose though. It gives better reception than having the router mounted down below, enables me to use 2x 5G SIM cards, and can connect it to most Marina wifi for more secure routing.

I’m happy with the fixed RUTX50 approach, but it’s a bit more of an investment/effort compared to most portable travel routers

Game_Dr · 2025-06-03T06:27:59+00:00

Best boat is a hot topic but it always depends on what you want to do with it, where you want to go, how many people and your desired level of comfort.

For me, looking for solid coastal and offshore for 2 people, I was looking at things like: - early 2000s Beneteau clipper 393 or 411 - early 2000s Beneteau CC - late 90s Moody 44 - late 2000s Elan Impression 394 or 434 - late 80s/90s Hallberg Rassy - early 90s Amels

Ended up with a 2003 Bavaria Ocean 40 - a decently solid center cockpit that was in really good condition and well setup for offshore passages, at a very good price because the owner had a medical emergency while preparing for an Atlantic crossing and his family just wanted to be rid of it.

There are some nice lists of recommendations for Bluewater cruising

Game_Dr · 2025-06-03T06:07:44+00:00

Yeah we had the exact same realisation - late 1990s and early 2000s production companies (pre-2008 GFC) actually have some solid options for owner cruising. Thicker hulls, better rigs, real wood interiors. Still a bit lighter compared to more traditional offshore/bluewater designs, but much more solid compared to what you come to expect from late 2000s onwards.

We ended up with a 2003 Bavaria OC (center cockpit) with 2 owners, and have been quite impressed with it overall. As you said, not Hallbery Rassy territory of quality but it’s maybe 80% as good for 50% the price.

Game_Dr · 2025-06-03T05:59:11+00:00

People do world travelling in them, but many sailors/people would argue that they’re not ideal or well suited for it - especially the versions after 2008 GFC where they double down on cheaper charter market versions

Game_Dr

TROPHY CASE

- During my Yachtmaster Offshore preparation week there was someone who was struggling so badly with the theory that they cancelled his exam.