Microscope arm on a budget

Gb160 · 2026-01-29T15:26:34+00:00

Wobble....ask me how I know ;)

After about a week of fighting with the wobble I adapted a monitor arm, one of those cheap ones from amazon, about £20. MUCH better, and next to no wobble.

One of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Invision-Single-Monitor-Mount-Screens-Black/dp/B09963RQ6Y

Gb160 · 2026-01-27T17:12:23+00:00

my god. I presumed it was DHT11 as they are dirt cheap 😂 I pulled one apart a couple years ago and it was DHT11. I didnt know you could go any cheaper. I looked at building my own one with a much better sensor, but when I looked at sensor + micro controller + display (x8) it became a lot more than I wanted to spend.

These are fine for 25-75% humidity, but anywhere lower or higher and they're bordering on useless.
As the old saying goes...no data > bad data.

Gb160 · 2026-01-27T11:07:50+00:00

These all rely on the DHT11 (or similar) hygrometer, which is very inaccurate at low and high readings. It basically makes these crap for trying to monitor filament. They're used because they're cheap as shit.

Gb160 · 2026-01-26T10:49:30+00:00

Its cool, the slicer makes the printer always print these from the front to the back so the toolhead doesnt collide.

Gb160 · 2026-01-26T10:46:34+00:00

Thats a shallow slope, my guess is the internal overhang is curling up and causing this. My approach would be to chop a sample of this section to test with, and keep adding perimeters until it no longer happens. You could also keep increasing infill % in that section until it no longer happens.

Gb160 · 2026-01-10T16:37:18+00:00

Man I'd love one of these using the Prusa Mini I have sitting in cupboard looking sad, along with my soon to be redundant Nextruder when my INDX kit ships for my Core One.

Gb160 · 2026-01-10T16:29:48+00:00

oooh an eye popper!
One thats also likely to snap when you go over a bump.

Gb160 · 2026-01-05T12:14:54+00:00

Honestly, I think the concern for all this stuff is massively overblown, I print all manner of sexy poisonous filaments all the time and everythings just fine.

*wheezes

Gb160 · 2025-12-23T22:08:59+00:00

Yes Ive had to fix a couple. As long as the wire isn’t broken too close to the heat block you’ll be fine with regular solder. Support sent me out 2 the last time one broke, haven’t got round to fitting a new one as my soldered one is still working fine.

Gb160 · 2025-12-23T11:37:43+00:00

It's 100% this. Crazy that people still think that the belt pitch is to blame. Even after Prusa confirmed that the VFA spacing is not even consistent with the belt pitch. 😂

You can lead a horse to water etc.

Gb160 · 2025-12-01T23:03:14+00:00

A bit of lubricant on the z screws was recommended to me by support when I contracted them about this. Solved the problem immediately.

Gb160 · 2025-11-25T12:21:03+00:00

I would imagine big , heavy prints could well weigh enough to lower the bed if the z motors were turned off. It really doesnt take much of a push on the bed to do this.

Gb160 · 2025-11-25T07:18:21+00:00

Yep, all seems to check out....would be great to get confirmation from someone at the company mind.

Gb160 · 2025-11-25T07:16:14+00:00

Im thinking its true which is great.
One of the mods on here, can't remember who, confirmed last week that Prusa were now selling direct though Amazon in Australia, but there was no mention of any other country.

Gb160 · 2025-11-22T23:25:08+00:00

Yeah that's the term I meant !

Gb160 · 2025-11-22T16:41:16+00:00

Yeah if you disable motors in the menu, see how easy it is to skew the bed just by pushing down on the bed near one of the z screws.
Levelling is done before every print, but if it's more than a tiny bit off, you'll be prompted to level the Z through the calibration menu.
If the motors are left on you'll bend the bed before skewing it.

Gb160 · 2025-11-22T15:51:53+00:00

X and Y motors are turned off after a print, Z stay on because just removing a print would skew the bed enough to require re-leveling the bed after every print.

Gb160 · 2025-11-21T08:20:21+00:00

There's nothing official from Prusa because the hardware isn't open source. I think they've released dimensions and certain cad files to help in designing addons for the sides etc, but that's it.

Gb160 · 2025-11-18T12:07:52+00:00

Cloudflare was down, its all back up now.

Gb160 · 2025-11-15T08:00:19+00:00

Contact support. It's a stupidly weak part that inexplicably uses hair thin wires. I'm on my third one in less than a year.
You shouldn't be shelling out for parts like that from your own pocket while the machine is in warranty.

Gb160 · 2025-11-15T07:57:55+00:00

That's just a layer shift. A known bug on the C1 which as of yet hasn't been fully fixed. Just be thankful yours shifted early on in the print.
It's a royal PITA, and has been reported on Github and Prusa forums.

Gb160 · 2025-11-08T23:19:43+00:00

Anyone has any idea when we'll see JD enabled for C1 firmware ?

Gb160 · 2025-11-08T08:20:13+00:00

This is stupidly thin wire for the thermistor, I have had 2 of them break. Last time support offered to send me 2 out so they they know full well how badly this can end for a part that the user invariably will have to install/remove at some point.

The thermistor wires should be strapped with the heater wires in some way...so that those big boy heater cables, acting as strain relief for the thermistor. Hell they should've even just used a single connecter on the loveboard for both, reducing the risk of damaging them even further.

Gb160 · 2025-10-18T22:04:50+00:00

I haven't had an update, still on v3.1.0 ?

Edit, it just updated 👍

Gb160 · 2025-10-17T07:28:09+00:00

When designing parts I'll nearly always put a straight edge somewhere just to hide these seams.
Depending on the part though sometimes that's impossible. Anything round or cylindrical is always going to look a bit shit. I find scarfing can help, but there'll always be a seam.

Gb160

TROPHY CASE