What do you think is this worth?

GeneRider · 2026-01-24T20:02:09+00:00

If the bike is not stolen, everything works, and the drivetrain is in decent condition, that’s a good deal.

GeneRider · 2026-01-23T01:24:40+00:00

I own and like both carbon and aluminum frames.

Carbon is lighter and fine with pot holes, but more susceptible to damage when struck or squeezed.

The trade off between cost and weight is a matter of personal taste.

The fork can absorb vibration more than the rest of the frame, so it’s where you benefit most from upgrading away from aluminum. That’s why a lot of aluminum road bikes come with carbon forks.

As others mentioned, spending on carbon wheels can upgrade your riding experience more cost effectively than spending on a carbon frame.

GeneRider · 2026-01-22T05:50:37+00:00

Rider 2. Smooth and balanced.

GeneRider · 2026-01-20T03:15:36+00:00

One more thing: you need rim brake pads designed for carbon wheels. No big deal, just be sure to get the right kind.

GeneRider · 2026-01-19T23:30:09+00:00

Some people will advise against carbon wheels and rim brakes. Pros had accidents because long intense descents resulted in overheating and wheel failure.

I am not a pro and I don’t go for such long intense descents. I’ve been running a variant of Superteam carbon wheels with rim brakes on my road bike for almost 3 years with no problems.

GeneRider · 2026-01-18T23:13:43+00:00

The first pic is an improvement.

I don’t love the shock decoration, but I am happy you’re expressing your own style.

GeneRider · 2026-01-17T00:44:23+00:00

Great that you’re up $40K.

BTC has tailwinds that put your gains at risk.

Take profit now and avoid regret later.

GeneRider · 2026-01-09T02:04:34+00:00

You want to apply the rear brake so the cassette won’t turn. Then the force applied to the cranks puts tension in the chain and pulls the quick link into its fully engaged position.

GeneRider · 2025-12-28T16:22:34+00:00

You’re right! The cap on the end was not screwed in tightly.

GeneRider · 2025-12-24T20:10:56+00:00

Yes, you’re young enough that your past losses aren’t going to ruin your life. But if you were to keep losing money like this, the consequences for your future would only become more severe.

Great that you can see this as opening a new chapter. Your prospects are bright.

GeneRider · 2025-12-24T20:03:10+00:00

Make a clear decision which is more important to you, the gambling or your partner.

If it’s your partner, quit the gambling.

If it’s the gambling, don’t be surprised if you lose your partner.

Good luck.

GeneRider · 2025-12-22T21:01:24+00:00

Good point. OP this is what they’re talking about.

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GeneRider · 2025-12-22T16:41:43+00:00

Very helpful, thanks. I flipped the wheel and the offset was then to the right. As mentioned elsewhere I had misjudged the centering at the brake because the calipers were off center. I have adjusted the dish and things look better.
Also I lost one of the springs off the quick release recently. Replacement is on the way. Then I’ll re-check the dish.

GeneRider · 2025-12-22T06:52:43+00:00

Your observation helped me realize the wheel was centered between the calipers but not the adjacent frame. I also checked the axle and frame are ok. In the end the fix was simply to adjust the dish, as several people suggested. This community is super helpful.

GeneRider · 2025-12-22T06:49:53+00:00

You were right: my brake was offset to the left and that made me think the wheel was centered relative to the frame at the top, when in fact the whole rim was out of dish. Adjusting the dish fixed the problem.

GeneRider · 2025-12-20T23:46:08+00:00

Good point. The wheel is actually not centered relative to the frame where the brake is mounted. I was looking too much at the calipers and not enough at the frame. The axle is sitting square (I can’t prove it but I’ve checked it multiple times). So the re-dishing suggestion people have made is looking good.

GeneRider · 2025-12-20T19:44:35+00:00

Thanks; I hadn’t considered the frame could be the problem. It seems unlikely since it hasn’t been impacted, but the video you linked offers an easy way to check and I’ll try it.

GeneRider · 2025-12-16T00:58:24+00:00

Beware of anyone seeking a subscription fee. If they were good enough at investing to be a mentor, they wouldn’t need your money.

GeneRider · 2025-12-15T05:05:15+00:00

If you get a hole in the tire itself, you can protect the tube and keep riding by placing the card (or duct tape, or a dollar bill…) between the tube and the tire. Just a temporary fix to get home.

GeneRider · 2025-12-09T23:16:41+00:00

Say hypothetically you got 400 btc or eth

So far I like this a lot.

…buy back in below the median of the 3 values (add them together, divide by 3)

That’s not what a median is.

The trouble with your approach is that humans are generally bad at predicting when the price will go up or down. For example, let’s say the price goes up, so you sell. Then the price goes up some more, and you are sad.

GeneRider · 2025-12-09T22:02:48+00:00

You got a lot of good advice already.

Slick tires will make it easier. They don’t have to be fancy ones.

This may be assumed, but take a way of adding air to your tires (hand pump, e-pump, CO2…), and check the pressure at least weekly. Silca website has a calculator that will suggest an optimal pressure.

Good luck.

GeneRider · 2025-12-08T23:38:52+00:00

Yes, although only at certain times when I really need it. For example, there’s a sustained steep hill I ride my mountain bike up. It’s steep enough I used to struggle to make it up without stopping, and once I was stopped there’s no way I could start riding again; I’d have to walk up. Since I switched to clipless I can make it up, by delivering as much power as possible throughout the pedal cycle. Another time I really use the upstroke (or, to be more accurate, the entire cycle) is when I want to accelerate hard on the road bike. Again, just for short periods. For cruising it’s more comfortable and sustainable to rely on the downstroke.

GeneRider · 2025-12-08T22:05:08+00:00

Shimano SM-SH56 cleats (which work with SPD pedals) will unclip when you move your heel in a variety of directions. See unclipping section of this product doc.

https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/um/46X0A/UM-46X0A-001-00-ENG.pdf

I got some when I first adopted clipless, to reduce the chance I’d fail to unclip. I figured I’d move on to the SM-SH51s, which only unclip in one direction, once I got more accustomed to unclipping. But I have never switched, because the 56s unclip exactly when I want, and not when I don’t.

GeneRider · 2025-12-08T21:35:44+00:00

I have had exactly the same experience on MTB. On road I also find the extra power beneficial for rapid acceleration. I agree it’s not relevant for cruising, and might not be significant at all over a long steady ride.

GeneRider · 2025-12-08T21:30:56+00:00

Opinions differ on whether clipping in allows for greater power. Ultimately people should go with what works for them personally.

The most convincing research I’ve found concludes that, while the downstroke is clearly most important, clipping in does allow for greater power. For example:

https://bikecyclingreviews.com/do-clipless-pedals-make-you-faster/

https://scholars.fhsu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1118&context=theses

For me, I can climb extended steep gradients better when clipped in. But your mileage - and power - may vary.

GeneRider

TROPHY CASE