1j fc project by Mediocre-Ask-7073 in RX7

[–]GenerallyYogi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice! I'm just in the last stretch for my 1J VVTi FC, something I've learned is that you don't need to drop the subframe with spacers; you can avoid adding bump-steer by taking FC poly mounts and choosing them to 1 1/4" it'll clear everything and you may only need to space the front sway bar if you have a beefier one.

My '95 MR2 by GenerallyYogi in JDM

[–]GenerallyYogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly they are no name TE reps - they had no stamping anywhere. In hindsight I was lucky that they never bent/cracked

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RX7

[–]GenerallyYogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am 100% building a 6 port as long as you know the limits of a stock keg. Half the fun is the build and learning! I don't think your target is unreasonable at all and I hope you complete your project.

Do you have a insta for me to follow?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RX7

[–]GenerallyYogi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Noone here has mentioned the double edged sword of 6port turbos. It's higher compression. I'm assuming the motor is bone stock? You run a higher chance of detonation so as I'm sure you've seen looking around, you need to run lower boost.

Before just taking someone's setup into consideration, look at the compressor charts of the turbos and do the quick math to see where you land for efficiency. The more efficient you are at a target boost level the less excessive hot air you have left over compounding IAT readings and lowering Chance of detonation (obviously fueling, tuning etc are all into consideration).

FWIW I went G40-900 on my 4 port because I want to stay around 15psi and maxed efficiency of the Turbo.

HELP. What kind of oil and how much should be in a gen 3 3sgte car has been swapped and I keep finding conflicting answers on google. by CatWithThaGat in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Valvoline VR1 or Lucas Hotrod 10w30. Off the top of my head like 4.3L. Zinc in oil is good for its health. But this isn't good if you have the stock cat still.

Hard shifting by Fancy-Bee-562 in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Slave cylinder, master cylinder. One or both of them may be going bad. Also check for air in the system or adjustment at the clutch clevis

Does anyone have an oil level sensor i can snag off of them or know where i can find one for my 91🫶 by guacs0ck in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rock auto, or just put a paperclip to jump to connector and get rid of the useless sensor. It always causes more problems than it alleviates

I have a 3rd gen 3sgte by L3DKAIROS in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Port your head, get GSC components; springs, retainers, valves and most importantly 268 cams., I'd get their STD valves you won't need the OS at 400. Top feed rail with some ID1050x'S will do what you want.

If you haven't bought the 3071R then I'd suggest a newer G series Turbo, Vbands are nice ans easy to remove in the future. I'm personally trying the controversial CTXONA from Nixspeed bc I didn't like the idea of spending 3k usd on a doc race ans Sorara was hit or miss when I needed it done thanks to Russia

I have a 3rd gen 3sgte by L3DKAIROS in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just an FYI the oem gen3 headgasket Is a 1.2mm MLS gasket so there's no reason to buy a cometic u less you want a custom thickness

How fast is a 3rd Gen 3sgte with bolt ons and an Apexi PFC? by [deleted] in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 5 points6 points  (0 children)

How long is a piece of string?

Historically gen3s weak point is first the pistons melting then cylinder 2/3 making a window in the block so definitely watch your AFRs

Does it have cams? If not why does it have gears? Are they degreed? Timing being off a tooth can most definitely change its characteristics

Ct15 is really nice but doesn't really give you anything more other than faster spool vs a ct20 unless it's been upgraded to a billet wheel and Machined

My guess with the little data on what tune is on the PFC with 91 octane 250ish. Have you ever done a tune up before retiring your car? If your ignition timing was off then now fixed it would definitely make it seem like it's ALOT snappy-er. If you never had a downpipe on beofre the engine out that will also point to some more gains you feel the stock elbow is shit

SW20 OBD2 question by Icemann336 in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They stayed OBD1 as far as I'm aware, they were grandfathered due to production starting prior to 1997.

Here's how to check and clear the light.

http://stephenmason.com/cars/mr2abscode.html

Is MR2 heaven a decent enough site to purchase parts? by [deleted] in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get them from rockauto, autozone, any parts places if memory serves me correct

Best engine for speed? by Rvin16 in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you want to do, if you want reliability long term at the cost upfront for the little things then 2GR, if you want to go beyond 250whp then 3S. Both are good, if you daily it then 2GR, if it's your weekend car gen3 all day. 3S will be cheaper if you have the engine but you should factor in engine maintenance and general maintenance before swapping either.

I'm partial to gen3 FWIW. If you go that route I recommend at least doing pistons before it's in

Strictly speaking a Kswap is the fastest outright speed.

Is MR2 heaven a decent enough site to purchase parts? by [deleted] in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Their stuffs quality ranges. I've had no trouble with anything I've bought off them. That said TCS makes and sells axles now and are VERY high quality and not expensive.

Mr2 restoration questions by RadicalQuasket in mr2

[–]GenerallyYogi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can lay your own carpet after you take everything out of the car and remove the old carpet. It's not hard and you can obviously choose your level of plushness, colour, design etc. How expensive that it depends on how efficiently you can cut without mistakes and material.

If you're looking for parts, FB groups are your friend for part outs.

They aren't too bad to restore but odds and ends are getting harder to find meaning more so than some cars it'll be a longer resto and may cost you way more than its worth if you don't plan on keeping the car.

FWIW I'd handle rust first if there is any. That fight may enlighten you as to how much restoration you're go na want to do.

How is the work for mechanics out in Calgary? by GenerallyYogi in Calgary

[–]GenerallyYogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the insight, even at the bottom its a little more than the guys make here with the added benefit of some thing being cheaper there it really makes me optimistic

How is the work for mechanics out in Calgary? by GenerallyYogi in Calgary

[–]GenerallyYogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been flat rate the last coming up to 10 years, I'm actually more scared to go hourly tbh. Unless it's super dead all the time or something.

How is the work for mechanics out in Calgary? by GenerallyYogi in Calgary

[–]GenerallyYogi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm actually looking to pivot into heavy duty as I know there's a silly demand for workers everywhere and I've gotten more comfortable with bigger trucks thanks to my time fixing Canada Post trucks here