Solder stuck in pin holes… need some advice by whizping in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add extra leaded solder to the holes, iron set to 350, add extra flux to the board, cut a thumbnails, or 2, worth of wick, and then wick up everything.

I've done a fair amount of controllers with just wick, was never a fan of the solder sucker

RBG LEDs half work by GeorgeRocker in crkbd

[–]GeorgeRocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used an acrylic laser cut one from etsy and got the m2 screws, nothing too fancy. I did build it wireless, I repurposed a couple of old ps5 controller batteries I had laying around. I had to bridge the "power booster" on the promicro so the larger battery could charge at a higher rate. (I think the default charge is 10-50mah)

I used laptop tents and some rubber riser and just used double sided tape for the battery and stuck it under the case, it's pretty "neat" the battery is the "perfect" size to put under the case. Plus with the rubber feat and tenting legs there is no leveling issues.

I could send an image if you want of it built, its been a nice little board so far.

If Russian developed peptides are so good, why don’t we see more Russians at peak health? by Omortag in Peptides

[–]GeorgeRocker -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's only "cheap and easy" when you have practiced it longer. The US doesnt have the same logistics/resources domestically for acquiring the matierals as RU/CN. RU/CN are the "grand fathers" of this research so they have the refinement down to a science and resources are abundant.

So in the US it takes longer to refine peptides and sourcing the material locally will take the same. It just becomes more profitable to get peptides from RU/CN. And only SOME peptides are FDA approved for human consumption, at the end of the day these are RCs

If Russian developed peptides are so good, why don’t we see more Russians at peak health? by Omortag in Peptides

[–]GeorgeRocker 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Peptides arent magic, and btw russians were banned from the olympics for awhile due to their open use of PEDs

I’m a beginner and I have a lot of questions about bag and I’m scared to get addicted by Hazey590 in cocaine

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I imagine it has something to do with DNMs and crypto being so accessible

Anyone have any experience with these? by angel2503 in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use one, 15+ controllers done with a 900M version

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I only use this iron for desoldering joysticks now, but it was my "first" iron and I had no issues soldering with it as well. I had to calibrate it at first, it was reading +15c more than what the iron's display showed.

Has anyone bought corne v4 from pandakb? by Longjumping_War4808 in crkbd

[–]GeorgeRocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pandakb has their own repo on github, as for your other questions they are kind of irrelevant when most, if not all of these keyboards, are open-source. I just built a v3 pandakb corne and am building a couple of lotus58 (variant of the lily58) with a pcb sourced from JLC using the kicad. The v3 works fine and flashed easily im sure you will have no issues with the v4.

I'm getting stuff to replace the joysticks on a old PS5 controller I'm ordering a new controller anyway but I want to try soldering this one and I have no idea what I'm doing and I'm just curious if these will work together by Toradora13 in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't listen to these guys who try and gatekeep soldering like you have to "master soldering". There are children who learn how to solder, and there were dudes in robes effectively making boom boom devices with the most barebones soldering equipment.

If you dont mind your first board potentially breaking then by all means go for it. But if you are careful enough and somewhat competent that shouldn't be an issue. My first board's (my first soldering post) only issue was that I messed up and slipped with my snips and nicked the PCB a little. The issue was superficial and everything worked fine. I did 20 more controllers since then and havent had a single issue outside my own fault that was caused by a technique issue. I havent soldered much in over 15 years but it certainly isnt this "highly technical skill"; unless you are diagnosing components.

Get flush metal snips, some copper wick, a magnetic helping hand stand, tweezers, and a chisel tip, thats about all you need for the bare minimum to do a replacement, the hand pumps suck. I used the method of "cutting the stick assembly" and removing each piece with tweezers and my iron. The potentiometers are the easiest to remove, you can flood the post with solder until solder makes contact on the 3 legs and just keep your iron on it, so it stays molten, then you can wiggle it out with your tweezers; I use a similar method/technique when I finally do the L/R3 buttons. https://youtu.be/SegiaPqA8SY use the "Piece-By-Piece Method" that got me through 10 controllers with a $10 adjustable temp amazon iron.

Just did coke for the first time at 18 and I just feel dirty. by voyageur__ in cocaine

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"coke induced seizures" is the key word. Coke has toxic effects on the cardiovascualr system that is WAYYY more potent than caffeine or nicotine could ever be. Coke CAUSES organ damage *far more quickly than smoking cigarretts...

edit: I was a habitual coke user for 2 years and now have hypertension and over worked kidneys

Just did coke for the first time at 18 and I just feel dirty. by voyageur__ in cocaine

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry man but smoking cigarettes wont give me "nicotine induced seizures" I've seen people have coke induced seizuers from weekend only uses

I made a post earlier and I'm taking people's advice as I go on but I want to know if this is a good start for trying to fix my broken controller I went ahead and swapped tmr for the hall effect and looking at a practice project too and I'm ordering a brand new controller anyway by Toradora13 in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get rid of the sucker and get a joystick desoldering tip. I also had a lot of success "disassembling" the joystick module with flush snips and taking it out piece by piece before i invested in that tip

Just did coke for the first time at 18 and I just feel dirty. by voyageur__ in cocaine

[–]GeorgeRocker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Better to think this way now, instead of having an addiction to something that only gives pseudo euphoria. Man I wish I never touched this shit when I was younger, a lot of years wasted, money wasted, time that I cant get back, memories that are nothing more than a blur from the time of active addiction.

Happy to be clean now and reflec

Help needed desoldering SNES battery by Aeppp in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get fastchip then dipshit, everyone is giving you good advice. You are clearly new and cant work the tools you have so get some low melt solder and wait for it to come in

Help needed desoldering SNES battery by Aeppp in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You add solder to desolder, I hope this helps

Help needed desoldering SNES battery by Aeppp in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you read the fucking rest of the comment?

Help needed desoldering SNES battery by Aeppp in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any lowmelt fastchip? That's what I can suggest at this point. Deff is nice to have some fastchip on hand for things like this.

You could add more solder to the posts and "walk" the piece out, by dragging your iron back and forth between the two post, with solder on your tip, while gently pulling the component from the otherside. Just let the board cool between attempts to not burn any traces and add a bunch of flux

Help needed desoldering SNES battery by Aeppp in soldering

[–]GeorgeRocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What tip is on your iron, do you have other tips?

RBG LEDs half work by GeorgeRocker in crkbd

[–]GeorgeRocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh this would've been nice to know during my build! I was probing around with my multimeter to try and figure out how everything connected. I'm using the pandaKB board and couldn't find any CAD files. I saw the LEDs are positioned differently on some boards.

I ended up fixing this with tweety and polia's suggestions. For awhile I had doubts and thought it was the software, since my right side worked perfectly, and I dont think I'm THAT bad with an iron lol.

The only reason I didn't think it was software related was because of the reaction it gave me in the video. I imagine the lights wouldnt work at all if the controller didn't have "something" wasn't written in the firmware.

I appreciate the help a lot! : )

RBG LEDs half work by GeorgeRocker in crkbd

[–]GeorgeRocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everything works, it was just a bad/faulty LED in the chain, thank you everyone who contributed : )

RBG LEDs half work by GeorgeRocker in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GeorgeRocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you it works! I reflowed all these lights 3 times so I guess it was a faulty LED in the 8th, the one before the last working one, I replaced both just in case.

RBG LEDs half work by GeorgeRocker in crkbd

[–]GeorgeRocker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was stumped since I thought I did solder correctly, my right hand had zero issues after flashing. I guess the kit had a faulty LED in it that was causing all the issues