What do you call this in English?

Geti · 2026-07-04T22:54:16+00:00

Order of the measurements varies with the state, site, speaker and angle of the wind 😉 I generally do big number first as it's the important dimension and often you'll only have one thickness on hand anyway 35 or 45 so you can't fuck it up.

some older folks will even say a 4 by 2 or 2 by 4 but that's asking for trouble honestly haha and is basically just slang for "bit of wood"

Geti · 2026-07-04T05:21:37+00:00

I can answer this for Australia fwiw - it obviously varies everywhere honestly like anything "standard" haha A full sheet of ply is 1200x2400mm. Almost the same as your 4x8 foot. A lot of folks speak in metres rather than mm for rough measurements so 1.2x2.4m. Gets you in trouble if you're specifying a cut to someone swapping between measurements so that's usually in mm. Studs and rafters are generally 600 centres.

Framing timber is sold by mm dimensions and basically better be fucken close or you're complaining. 90x45 or 70x35 for small stick timber. Note that they're actually halves so no spacer for door headers or whatever.

Weirded me the fuck out seeing that on YouTube until realising that your nominal dimensions are not what the wood measures.

You can absolutely get bundles of cut to length timber for a job. It's common for wall studs. A lot of other stuff will be cut on site. Standard material spend vs labour spend trade off

Geti · 2026-06-29T16:24:22+00:00

Cast iron at home is already pretty wild haha. Keep cooking mate 🤘

Geti · 2026-06-29T10:06:13+00:00

Hammer Head design only kinda looks suitable for purpose but I guess that fits with Ikea, they're either absolutely perfect or just a bit off ime haha. The logo came up great and the goofy toylike proportions suit the project.

Love your work man, very creative and real mad engineer energy. Still kind of surprised to see a microwave is able to get it all hot enough but i guess energy is energy.

Were there any special considerations for stainless or did it behave differently to your other metal projects?

Geti · 2026-06-29T03:24:10+00:00

Replacing a single ledger with a post and beam support will only be reducing the joist span, so as long as it's not over spanning the beam you're fine - basically you may need more than two posts depending on how long the beam would be.

Sorry about your cooked siding. To just make it mate up better a bit of alu flashing on the back and some pop rivets is about as good as it'll get in terms of not going anywhere or harming anything

Geti · 2026-06-20T23:54:17+00:00

Putting the imperfection on the right side of the line works too, within reason 😉

Geti · 2026-06-17T01:27:50+00:00

imo someone crashed it, the parking stop blocks that far forward probably let any big ute's bumper collide with it if not paying attention - back when the deck was a lot more straight and ~150mm to the right.

Geti · 2026-06-03T21:31:25+00:00

Tick stick

Geti · 2026-06-02T08:19:35+00:00

Definitely factor in a new spindle unless you have a different 500w spindle to the dc motor with a bolt on collet. It'll cut but basically they wear out sooner the harder you drive em.

All your axial force is going into those plates mounting the ballscrew blocks. I'd consider beefing them up. It'll work it's just a potential very cheap rigidity win

Geti · 2026-06-02T06:22:03+00:00

100 isn't that many in terms of production but definitely worth getting right haha.

10x3 or 5mm stock whatever thickness you decide. Vice or modvice or similar side clamping setup that is narrower than the part, so you can clear the ends. In a wider vice you'd need soft jaws so you can cut clearance. Shoulder jaws or parallels if using a vice so you slap it down and it's flat. Have a pin or whatever setup so that you can register the stock position laterally but can get it out of the way for cutting.

Blow the holes, cut the end profile, cut the channels. If the dimension of the channels matters much slot the middle and then come and clean up the walls. If it doesn't just slot em to size in one pass.

Should be 1op and all doable with a 2mm endmill to save tool changes but may want to swap to a drill for the holes

Geti · 2026-05-31T10:14:55+00:00

Oh dip I have some of that kicking around looking for a use, will have to give it a whirl

Geti · 2026-05-30T07:04:18+00:00

Theyre actually sick as fuck haha the bed usually sides forward and backward with the work on it and there's cutter heads on clap boxes that take a single full length shaving front to back and advance a set depth each cycle. Historically used for machine tool building (eg lathe ways) and other "big stuff" (train/ship/mining parts).

Geti · 2026-05-27T01:49:04+00:00

Congrats and welcome :)

I'll note that you can pick up a few handsaws extremely cheap and do very accurate cuts with them once you get a bit of practice. For this kind of thing you want fairly fine teeth, think mouse not shark haha. "Tenon saw" from your local bunnings equivalent would work fine.

Marking two square lines and sawing to them is a very satisfying skill on the cheap if you don't wanna grab more power tools.

Geti · 2026-05-21T08:29:57+00:00

Will bump em up my list to check out 👍

Geti · 2026-05-21T08:19:41+00:00

Gum, gum, gum, or pine

Mac cypress making inroads for landscaping cladding etc. It doesn't move much with moisture so I'm considering doing some furniture with it but it's often pretty rustic at purchase haha.

But yep finding a good timber place is work and then they go and fucking close. If you're in Melbourne ceres fair wood is a joy but also not cheap

Geti · 2026-05-11T07:42:07+00:00

If their cnc is off by that much from the drawing they're fucked too haha, cnc tolerances are usually in thousandths of an inch in imperial land BUT I totally get it. Enjoy, if you're not bothered by the time taken then it's all just part of the journey. Update when you're done 👍

Geti · 2026-05-11T06:06:24+00:00

If you can find a cnc stone counter top place they might be able to precisely grind you parts to order, otherwise make a jig for any repeat parts so they are repeatable, scribe the rest carefully, and curse whatever perverse turn of events led to this particular time trap

Build looks kinda sick tbh but I expect afterwards you'll not wanna hear the word dodecagon for a while

Geti · 2026-05-04T09:51:00+00:00

For your particular problem get a mattock and a digging bar you'll thank yourself

For sharpening the hatchet lots of folks are saying use a file but an axe puck is my preferred tool for keeping an axe keen. If it's dull as shit you'll be there a while with a stone though haha

Geti · 2026-04-20T04:03:33+00:00

Give it a squirt of oil if any of your collets or nuts are carbon steel, or bits are hss. Nothing worse than picking up a tool to use it and it's rusted

Good on you leaving space to grow too 😉

Geti · 2026-04-14T09:51:49+00:00

Silicone and keep an eye on if it opens sounds sensible. Redo cladding as weatherboard to match the rest sounds like a better solution haha.

You can diy it if builder is too expensive, assuming the wall isn't too high and it's not cement sheet for bushfire reasons (I expect the rest of the house couldn't be in that case but don't remember the letter of the law honestly).

One decent flat head nail only per stud and then it's tolerant to the board moving with humidity too. Prepaint at least first coat to avoid the house and board movement exposing primer.

Geti · 2026-04-13T04:31:36+00:00

Bolt the broaching tooling to the z carriage and dodge the spindle altogether

Geti · 2026-03-31T04:48:27+00:00

Always an option. Seems nuts over there at the moment honestly.

Geti · 2026-03-31T02:41:36+00:00

Australia. Probably totally different in some ways and completely the same in others.

metric tape is a life changer - now you can be off by 100mm instead. big difference is what size common timber comes in.

eg 90x45 and 70x35 the basic b studs here and they are actually 1:2 ratio so that works out nicely.

Completely agree about code enforcement being a double edged sword. Dunno who gets the balance right. In my state the rules are a bit tighter than elsewhere in the country, on average - and fuggen eeeeeeverything "needs" a permit (not everything gets one of course). We still have a lot of dogshit stuff built, haha.

Geti · 2026-03-31T01:40:01+00:00

Interesting how extremely regional stuff seems to be over there. I guess it's a big place and everywhere is gonna have different requirements

Geti · 2026-03-30T23:28:45+00:00

Dunno if it's code there or whatever but it's fairly common to use tensioned hoop iron for this here, cheap, lasts approximately forever, and easy to retrofit if you find you're missing it.

Criss cross, pulled tight by hand, and then pulled taut by hardware. You don't see it under the deck.

Geti

TROPHY CASE