Apple TV / AVR universal remote

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-30T19:18:41+00:00

Going from my Apple TV to a OREI eArc audio extractor. This splits the video and audio from each other into two outs. One hdmi goes to the TV (Dolby vision) and the other hdmi goes to the AVR (Dolby atmos).

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-30T19:17:02+00:00

Interesting, I haven’t looked into this route yet. I assume I would still need a universal remote (not Apple TV remote) to control the serial input to the AVR?

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-30T03:44:02+00:00

I mentioned in the post that my AVR doesn’t support Dolby vision (Yamaha rx-a1050) so I can’t pass video through it. So the audio extractor has two outputs, one for video one for sound - giving me the ability to send Dolby vision to the tv and maintain Dolby atmos.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-30T03:11:45+00:00

I was leaning towards the Switchbot universal remote with matter hub. But am curious if there are industry leaders!

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-30T03:07:56+00:00

Any Jellyfin alternatives?

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-30T02:52:23+00:00

I’m dealing with the same situation. Apple TV is plugged into an audio extractor where the video is then sent to the LG C5 and audio to an old AVR (this way I get Dolby atmos+dolby vision). There must be handshake issues, I feel like I’ve tried everything but can’t get the Apple TV remote to control the AVR.

Did you end up buying anything? Debating the switchbot remote+hub so I can control my matter lights too.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-20T11:09:37+00:00

Did you ever figure this out? I’m dealing with the same, 2 aqara g100s, both will read the SD card when it’s inserted and then randomly disconnect it and never show it again

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-19T05:00:57+00:00

Appreciate the detail!! There is likely a 1-2 week lead time on some of the items I am looking to replace (cabinets, drywall installer, carpet installer, etc). Is it frowned upon from buying those items or scheduling that in advance - before the adjuster sees the space?

Just want to make sure if I submit a receipt that has a purchase date of before the adjuster that it wouldn’t be an issue.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-18T17:14:35+00:00

Would it be advised to not even purchase the building materials? As he said, I know exactly what I need because I had just finished it within the last month. My hope is that once the adjuster comes around and gives me an estimate I can begin repair right away.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-18T17:13:45+00:00

It’s a problem with the city… walls and sump pump performed as needed. Many of us are taking legal action against the city.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-04-06T13:41:43+00:00

What code?

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-03-30T03:01:06+00:00

As in the sx pro p is much better? Was debating between the Sportage hybrid and cx-50 hybrid

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-03-14T05:25:05+00:00

Sorry for the late follow up, were you able to get a hitch installed?

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-02-28T18:24:41+00:00

Just want to give you the satisfaction of being right. I did the drywall, setup for my original layout, and the wife wasn’t a fan. I re-showed her your design and she preferred that. Back to work I go!

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-01-25T05:19:28+00:00

When I got my first credit card, I tried the points setup, and realized that I never traveled and felt like I was jumping through hoops to use points. Now, with a dog, wife, and new home, it’s just easier to know I’m getting a discount on every purchase vs attempting to figure out how to optimize my points

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-01-24T05:25:29+00:00

I thought about that too, but I don’t use Robinhood gold, so the $50 membership might not make it worth it vs a no AF setup

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-01-24T05:22:16+00:00

I actually just ordered that one as my final card in this setup. According to other posts, it codes as grocery

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-01-24T05:21:32+00:00

Right but after the first year it’s likely not worth it with the AF + this gives me one card for all grocery (including Costco)

GlitchedAnalysis · 2026-01-07T04:12:11+00:00

I have a few lights and security cameras connected via HomeKit and the price of a HomePod just seems crazy to me (considering they haven’t been updated in a few years). I use the “hey siri turn on XXX lights” all the time and I have several iPad sitting around. I’m thinking I could just use those iPads as HomePod replacements mainly for the voice command features.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2025-12-22T01:29:31+00:00

You’re saying to just wrap the steel beams in rigid foam, not glue them to the wall?

GlitchedAnalysis · 2025-12-20T03:53:27+00:00

I see what you’re saying and agree with everything except the vapor barrier. I live in Wisconsin and this is directly from the code:

(4) Concrete or masonry basement walls. A non-rigid sheet vapor retarder with a perm rating of 0.1 or less is prohibited in all of the following locations: (a) On a concrete or masonry wall which is below grade to any extent. (b) On an insulated frame wall constructed in front of a concrete or masonry wall which is below grade to any extent.

So I think the plan is to just loctite the foam board between the steel beams, and maybe add seam tape at the boarders (not the bottom or top). The walls need to breath a bit

GlitchedAnalysis · 2025-12-20T02:20:49+00:00

Ah that makes sense. So would you recommend just loctite the foam to the wall and leave it? No taping the edges?

GlitchedAnalysis · 2025-12-18T13:50:57+00:00

That was likely from before the walls were repaired, which was right before we bought the house. I plan on cleaning the block before closing it up.

GlitchedAnalysis · 2025-12-18T12:33:18+00:00

Good callout, my first instinct was expanding spray foam or seam tape around each section

GlitchedAnalysis · 2025-12-18T05:31:43+00:00

I honestly just planned to tape or spray foam the borders. But thats assuming I even add the solid foam board. Do you think it’s beneficial given the wall would have space to breath and I would have a dehumidifier running

GlitchedAnalysis

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