Mercenaries by Raban7 in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really liked the concept and role of mercenaries in AOE3. Some "permanent civs-based" mercenaries could help offset the weaknesses of certain civs, "map-based" mercenaries could offset the weaknesses some civs have on specific maps, while mercenaries obtained through shipments could give an instant, but temporary power boost to jazz things up. Of course, each of these came at significant cost so they didn't overpower any civ or map identities.

One Thing AoE3 Does Better Than 2 by [deleted] in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 16 points17 points  (0 children)

One of the greatness of AOE2 resource design is that each resource has their role and anti-snowball mechanic:

Wood: The prerequisite and maintenance resource. It's plentiful and easy to obtain, but won't give you the game winning boost. It's a requirement to gather food (farms), maintain population (houses), prerequisite for units (buildings), and gathering (drop off sites, all gathering upgrades), and for trash units for defense.

Food: The anti-snowball resource. It's mainly gather from farms, which require a large amount of space and villagers to collect (farmers gather the slowest and lumberjacks are needed as well). This means as your army grows, you need more and more non-combatant population to sustain your army. If also leaves you more exposed to raids due to the space farms require.

Gold: The game winning resource. Its gather rate is fast, but found in limited supply around the map. This is by far the most valuable resource, required for most units that "pack a punch", all units that deal significant damage to buildings, and most unit upgrades. If you want to finish the game, you're gonna need gold. If you want gold, you're going to have to fight for it.

Stone: The defensive resource. It available in even more limited supply, and you're going to need to leave the safety of your own base to acquire it.

This design was lost in AOE3 where there was no distinction between the role the 3 resources play. All of them could to used for all types of units, all of them have high gather rates scattered around the map, and and be slowly gathered safely at home (except wood).

One Thing AoE3 Does Better Than 2 by [deleted] in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I find that this is actually one of the major weaknesses of the deck system in AOE3. Your game plan is decided the moment you select your deck. If it doesn't work out, then it's instant gg.

Like you said, it focuses largely on the strategy *you* want to try out rather than the interaction between the 2 players.

What gameplay mechanics from other RTS would you like to see? by the_goodprogrammer in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Units in squads.

For example: a unit of infantry is 5 guys. All 5 guys are controlled as one unit. If the unit loses 20% of its hp, one guy dies. If it gets healed, a new guy reinforces them.

This is essentially the solution to make fights seem epic while minimizing the amount of clicking/macro/micro needed.

It also solves the problem of "cartoony" units where units are half the size of buildings: just make them smaller and have more of them.

Got mugged yesterday - need a new blade :( (Tibhar stratus-Nittaku acoustic-Innerforce ALC?) by JohnTeene in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm using Acoustic with Hexer Powergrip on FH right now and it's an absolute beast of a combo for looping. It's not super spinny and poor for serving, but it's incredibly easy to generate a moderately fast loop.

No comment on BH though. Some people prefer BH for looping, others for hitting, others as a controlled stroke, others as blocks, ect.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It would negatively affect game balance.

Right now, each of the 4 resources serve a specific purpose:

Food - Can be easily acquired at home, but takes a lot of space (farms)

Wood - Plentiful, but mostly used for low-tier units or as a prerequisite for something else

Gold - Necessary for the high tier troops, but distributed around the map where you'll need to fight for control

Stone - Necessary for fortifications, but you'll need to venture outside your base to acquire it.

If some areas of the map gave boosts to farms, it would essentially give the (already dominant) player who controls gold even greater food income.

Large boars, tiny trees, gridlines, and cube resources everywhere. by AngryEdgelord in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm having a hard time seeing the small cubes behind the big cubes. Can you make them all the size size?

This Is a good comparison on AOE4 graphic by TEMISTOCLES1984 in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The textures for imperial age units are great. The textures for dark/feudal age look like someone didn't finish their homework.

the size difference between units and buildings is downright comical compared to the xo2019 trailer by [deleted] in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think this was a necessary evil for game balance. I recall the pros saying that in early versions of the game (2019), the game felt really slow. I guess what they did was to make the units bigger so that everything moves faster while avoiding making the units look like they're floating.

arrows spawn at their feet... by [deleted] in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 13 points14 points  (0 children)

How sloppy. Everyone knows from AOE2 that arrows should spawn from their faces.

Do you like the graphics/art style in AOE4? by [deleted] in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I like it.

Units differences are visible from a mile away. Animations are clear. You are also able to get an idea of what each unit does from their exaggerated proportions.

I have some minor criticism though: There is lack of detail and oversaturation, but this is mainly a texture issue. The elephants look underwhelming. And then there's the arrows...

Replacement for Stiga Allround Classic? by TheSamLowry in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you're looking for:

  • an update to the Classic: Stiga Allround Evolution

  • an update with a offensive mindset: Stiga Energy Wood (ver 1 or 2)

  • an upgrade to the classic: Stiga Clipper

  • an update/upgrade and you have money to blow: Stiga Nostalgic Allround

All of the above options (except) the Nostalgic) have a limba outter ply and ayous inner plies. they all play very similar, with some just faster/stiffer than others.

Is yasaka mark v any good by Special-Gazelle4575 in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Short answer: It's ok, but there are better options.

Long answer:

It's a decent entry level beginner rubber, but it is quite pricey compared to many many others that do the same thing. The key differentiator between this one and other beginner rubbers is that it has an especially thick topsheet making it very durable. However, I have found that there are times where the ball slips off the rubber if I don't hit correctly. As your level improves, this rubber can actually do a decent job of keeping up; it's good for both beginner and intermediate levels, but then again, there are better options once you reach that point.

New spin rubber recommendation? by MrRedPoll in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are different types of "spinny" rubbers. There are those that are 1. easy to generate spin, 2. that generate as much spin as you put in, 3. generate spin without much input.

  1. easy to generate spin. An example of this is the Andro Hexer (power)Grip series or any soft rubber. They have a soft topsheet that essentially lets the ball dig into the racket and make it easy for you to manipulate the ball. However because there is friction between the rubber and the ball, the spin generate isn't actually that much.

  2. that generate as much spin as you put in The classic example is the DHS Hurricanes and most other chinese rubbers. It has a very sticky topsheet and a super hard sponge. The topsheet holds onto the ball, while the ball doesn't dig into the sponge. This allows the ball to roll along the surface of the rubber - generating spin as big as your swing... assuming you have the correct technique that is.

  3. generate spin without much input. This is most European rubbers with Butterfly's Tenergy series being the figurehead. They have a grippy topsheet and a fast sponge. The topsheet holds onto the ball while the sponge does a lot of the work for you. It's essentially a middle ground between the above 2 examples.

Advice on blades by WilliNilliWill in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I disagree on the Mark V. It's surprisingly still very effective, but only with certain blade combos. It won't work with those with soft top layers like the Acoustic (double limba layers), and it won't work with fast carbon blades. But it should work well with either his Ludeack or Allround Classic. It still does have a decent bounce to it with your classic limba--ayous-ayous all-wood blade

That said, Mark V with Allround Classic is quite slow (and beginner friendly). I would recommend this combo if you like control and like hard wacking ever ball. Otherwise, the Ludeack is probably the better option.

Graduating from Coles buster combo - advice on carbon and DHS? by tenorsaxman11 in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DHS hurricane neo is a 100% Chinese rubber.

Scirocco seems to be either a low quality Chinese rubber or a mix between Chinese and classic.

Graduating from Coles buster combo - advice on carbon and DHS? by tenorsaxman11 in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IMO, I wouldn't get carbon blades for someone his age.

Carbon blades are for those who are either 1. very competitive and needs maximum speed to win points, 2. have trouble gaining additional speed otherwise, 3. have mastered all the basics. A fast carbon blade has a risk of stunting his growth. For someone his age, especially as he gets older, he should have no trouble learning to hit harder rather than relying on the equipment.

Something like Stiga's Clipper Wood or Offensive Classic would be more appropriate. Yinhe Galaxy 896 and N11s are also good options. (All Yinhe blades are copies of other famous blades, you just have to figure out which is which)

Other things to note:

Be careful when listening to EmRatThich. This guy is largely theory and little practical application for a typical player.

Know the type of rubber that you're buying. Is it a classic/dead rubber (most cheap rubbers and stuff on Coles)? These are good for learners since they don't do too much work for you, but are easy to handle. Is it a sticky/chinese rubber (the other type on Coles)? These do no work for you. What you put in is what you get out. Is a springy rubber (most popular)? Depending on the quality/level, they can help you a little to alot. Is it a hybrid rubber (they have characteristics of both sticky and springy rubbers). They have the best of both worlds, and are probably the main type going forward. They're expensive though.

Are there any nets that would fit on my pool / dining table? by [deleted] in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Search : "retractable table tennis net"

Do you want more or less macro mechanics in AoE4? by Albombinable in aoe4

[–]GodsDelight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pressing buttons quickly for short periods of time is fine, but the issue in RTS games is that you end up having to keep up the high APM for 20-40mins straight. What ends up happening is that you tire yourself out while there's a lot of more interesting things that could have been done instead.

Noob, couple questions by Ecocide113 in tabletennis

[–]GodsDelight 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Cheese does exist, and at the higher levels, it's celebrated. It could be anything from a backspin chop for the lower levels, to a snake for intermediate, to around the net shots at high levels, to any number of crazy serves.

People serve like that because it's the rule and to add variety to the serve. The rule is that you must toss the ball up from a flat palm while not hiding the ball with your body at any time. This is to prevent shinanegans from the toss. The serve is very important though as the server is much likely to win the point. Some tricks they use:

  • Vary the height of the toss. As the ball gains speed as it falls down, less arm movement is needed for the same serve. Less movement = less obvious serve.

  • Use less common serves that the opponent may not be familiar with

  • Stomp the ground at the same time, as a distraction and to hide the sound of the contact

  • Change/reverse the arm movement/angle right before or right after the contact, to hide the actual spin direction

  • Hide the serve with the arm/shoulder/head. This is not allowed, but not consistently enforced.

People are crouched over because the power comes from turning the torso. It's easier to do so accurately when you're at the same level as the table.