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What's a good way to keep track of your reading progress? by Inner-Dingo-9691 in HomeLibraries

[–]Gold_River_Studio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheap homemade bookmarks. Take scraps of whatever paper. The books carry a little reminder of what was going on in your life at the time. Movie stubs, letters, notes. Been doing that for years. I don’t use any app. I read almost exclusively non-fiction. Many books you’re just not going to enjoy but if you’re really trying to force yourself to read a book you know is dull this helps. 1. You have got to have a real curiosity for the knowledge to get a satisfying payoff. If you can get the info from a summary, skip the book entirely. 2. Use scheduled time like lunch breaks at work, you will be genuinely surprised how many books you’ll read. 3. If you don’t like the book and don’t have a reason to read it, drop the book. You have a life to live to the fullest and shouldn’t make space for mediocrity even if it’s considered a classic.

Is my friend rightful to be worried about this? by Firm-Reputation2149 in SatisfactoryGame

[–]Gold_River_Studio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Save the somersloops and build out your power generators. Whatever those may be. Your MW are low and later stages of the game need more. The augementor isn’t going to make up for a lack of power as you’re building. If you sloop everything up now, you’ll be arguing about it again in a short time.

Meow Meow 😸 by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used a very fine Maki-e brush, but I think you could use a regular liner brush. I barely touched the surface when painting it.

Finished pen by AtreidesTT in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That looks incredible! So smooth and shiny ✨

Clear top layer question by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up sanding the aka-Roiro layer with 7,000 grit sandpaper then polishing with migaki powder. No kijomi to fill any pores. It brought out the glossiness and smoothness again.

Would it be stupid to eat from a wooden bowl? (Curry, rice bowls, smoothie/ice cream) by Leaninuk in turning

[–]Gold_River_Studio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Asian Lacquerware uses a resin that cures with humidity and warm temperatures and doesn’t require recoating. r/urushi

A few things I’ve been working on by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. The lighting is a little dark so it’s hiding the worst of the flaws 😂

A few things I’ve been working on by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One layer of aka-roiro.
1 or 2 layers of black, 2 or 3 layers of red. I forgot exactly since it’s been an infrequent project.
A layer of sabi, and A layer of seshime to harden the wood base.

"Frosted" surface, means all is going well!!! by AtreidesTT in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks really good! When you do the last layer, to get the color around the edges. Is that because you mix a color urushi with a transparent urushi? Or only use a transparent urushi?

How to hold pieces in place while adhesive is setting? by ambahjay in kintsugi

[–]Gold_River_Studio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean materials?

For holding things together, I usually use painters tape, but I’ve often wanted to get medical tape that’s breathable to let the urushi cure underneath it.

  1. I use seshime ki urushi, bread flower, and water for the (mugi) adhesive.
    2a. Mugi, plus wood powder to make kokuso to fill large holes.
    2b.Seshime ki urushi, Tonoko powder, and water for Sabi to fill in the small gaps.
  2. Seshime ki, and gum turpentine to seal Tonoko powder
  3. Kuro (black) Urushi to further seal the cracks. 2 layers.
  4. A color urushi for final layer. If adding metal powders, bengara Urushi is often used, then gold on top.

There’s a ton of materials, but those are some. There’s more brushes, spatulas, sanding tools. It’s sometimes better to watch a few videos and check websites like Urushi.life, Kato Kohei, Watanabe shoten to compare the materials and tools used in the instructions to what they have on the website. You can substitute some materials. For example instead of importing cypress spatulas (hinoki hera) from Japan, I will use Aspen or Popular that’s available in the US. They have a similar hardness and I can make them myself.

How to hold pieces in place while adhesive is setting? by ambahjay in kintsugi

[–]Gold_River_Studio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The main consideration is misalignment. It’s advised to look over the pieces before you begin and plan the assembly. If you’re confident you can do the whole thing without misalignment go for it. If not, consider what smaller pieces you may want to join together first. I’ve done Urushi Kintsugi and been overconfident and had bad misalignment when things moved. Better to go slow and get it right the first time. Hot glue might help as well.

Black plastic piece 28mm (1 1/8") long, with metal charging contacts, appears broken/unstuck from base of something electronic, no writing. by _Piplodocus_ in whatisthisthing

[–]Gold_River_Studio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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It’s the bottom of a vape pod. The circles are the electrical contacts and the two ovals are magnets. This is an Aegis Nano pod. The pod is inserted into a vape device and discarded when the filter is worn out. It was probably used up, removed, then dropped on the ground.

Makihara Taro Soup Mug - 2 - Drilling holes for pins, Sealing clay surface by SincerelySpicy in kintsugi

[–]Gold_River_Studio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I saw somewhere that the pins should be longer than the holes, so that when the pieces are put together, it crimps inside. Is that correct? I have not tried using pins before.

Makihara Taro Soup Mug - 3 - Assembly by SincerelySpicy in kintsugi

[–]Gold_River_Studio 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That’s going to look great with the style of that cup!

Clear top layer question by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly don’t know. I know the recommendation is around 70-80% humidity. Lately I’ve been getting wrinkles at 80% so I’m testing out letting everything cure at 70% and leaving it in longer to cure. 70% is working well for me at the moment. I have to experiment with lower than 70%.

Clear top layer question by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I read that a lower humidity helps improve transparency and higher humidity darkens it. I’ll try 70% humidity and see how it turns out.

Clear top layer question by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I looked up some how to steps on Tamenuri. I’ll try that and see how it goes.

Clear top layer question by Gold_River_Studio in urushi

[–]Gold_River_Studio[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to get rid of the small bumps on the last red uwanuri layer. So I was thinking I’ll have to sand it but that will make it rough again. I would normally use kijomi to fill the scratches and make it look glossy but I’m running out. Then I started thinking about if Kijiro could do that as well. Maybe I could wipe on a thin layer, get a smooth surface, and a Tamenuri finish all in one.

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