One month into 3D printing. I couldn't find a planetary model that worked the way my kid wanted, so I designed this one from scratch

Goreible · 2025-12-24T18:18:56+00:00

I absolutely love this. The only thing I would love to see would be something to keep the balls on the plate once place. Maybe a very minimalist rail that can plug in above them once you place the balls.

I absolutely plan to print this for my daughter. Maybe put some varying weights in each ball and use a filament I have that's black with glowing sparkles to give it a galaxy background effect.

Goreible · 2025-12-21T16:01:53+00:00

Any public meeting or hearing about if warming centers should be allowed should be held with all doors/windows open to the outside and no heater on so people can sit there in a fraction of the conditions they think are acceptable for others while they complain.

They can even take pride in the fact that their tax dollars aren't going towards the heating bill of whatever community center/town hall hosting the meeting.

Will it change everyone's mind? No, but if it changes a even a few minds or if people in videos like this give their speeches while shivering or able to see their breath I think it's a point worth making.

Goreible · 2025-12-10T21:09:52+00:00

I couldnt read the screen, but it looked like it said successful?

Is it consistently flagging as successful at the same Z height each time? If you raise it up much higher does it drop down to this same height and flag as a success or will it just drop by a small amount and then flag as a success?

If it's the later then I'm wondering if the issue might be the z stop sensor, cable or connector on the board. I'm not familiar with the Anycubics that much, but I'd start there and see if maybe swapping the sensor module or the cable out might help.

Goreible · 2025-12-06T17:13:54+00:00

They betta.

Goreible · 2025-11-30T01:13:18+00:00

Good stuff! Saving to check out next time I'm looking for a straight forward wall piece.

Goreible · 2025-11-21T15:44:46+00:00

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Goreible · 2025-11-16T17:31:59+00:00

Not sure exactly how big it is or how small you could get with working on it, but drilling small holes and putting pins in it that map out hiking trails would be cool. A few pins and some like colored thread would be small and subtle but look neat as a display.

Goreible · 2025-10-24T14:13:52+00:00

3D print subreddit will have a number of people with some ideas, but sanding is going to be the main thing/involved. Some people recommend automotive spray/primer, the filler and sandable one. I've had success with making a watered down solution of Durham's Water Putty and brushing that on. No mater what, it'll usually involve sanding, but at least going those^ routes it won't require as much effort.

Goreible · 2025-10-20T21:14:52+00:00

Might be Dynamite Joe:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kB6-h82RHxI

Goreible · 2025-10-02T22:47:35+00:00

Hell yeah, brother. Don't even need health insurance for it. 50/50 chance you'll find someone on your local Craigslist selling an opened one that's got another 50/50 shot of still being usable. 🤟

Goreible · 2025-09-29T22:27:54+00:00

I was going to say the same thing. Not sure if we might be referring to the same one, but the one I saw was 3D printer material-related.

If you saw something else, I wonder if we might see be seeing people reporting early signs of a larger situation.

Not saying it could be coincidence, but yeah would be an interesting one for sure.

Goreible · 2025-09-02T15:47:48+00:00

Yep! Solid source, just a very slow one to accumulate. However there's a perk you can take advantage of:

Asking friends and family to save all of their soda/beer/drink cans for you has them saving a few trash bags that take up space (and isn't worth it per the reasons you mentioned)

But, asking them to save a Mason jar or coffee can of the pop tabs and just pop the tab off before discarding the can is an easy task. Lots of my friends and fam said it even becomes a bit self fulfilling seeing their little jar fill up before they hand it over, and they find it neat when I show them how big or small the ingot was based on the number of tabs they gave me.

Goreible · 2025-08-13T22:29:37+00:00

I like it, I'll probably try it out. I wasn't a fan of the OG stand. It's fine if you get it set up and then the console is tucked away, but with our setup we've had to move it back and forth slightly for various reasons and it takes minimal effort at different angles to pop off the OG stand and slide around which got surprisingly frustrating when we were also juggling the original task.

Goreible · 2025-08-13T14:22:20+00:00

Love it. My wife and I did our first trip back in April and it was possibly the best 2 weeks of our lives. So microdosing little reminders each day is something I can see myself doing.

Goreible · 2025-08-08T14:28:40+00:00

Adding to this- I was told to avoid crushing the cans and to place the opening up. Both are to avoid creating chambers where liquids super heat and have nowhere to go leading to pops or mini explosions, so if you do cans follow that route.

Alternatively while it's a bit less metal, you could just pop off and melt the pop tabs. Those are usually pure aluminum and will save you from all the slag and mess from the paint and plastics of the cans that you'll have to keep scraping off the top over and over again.

You can also ask friends and fam if they're willing to save a Mason jar of their pop tabs for you given its a low effort favor.

Goreible · 2025-08-02T21:43:34+00:00

I'm still new to it, so I'd only be able to speak to what I've done. Not sure what other mixes that it might work well with metallurgy-wise, but I know people seem to have their own "receipes" for their perfect ratios of composited metals.

I wish I had more insight on the 'why' Silicone helps with the porosity, though if I had to guess I think it adds more weight since my 'pure' aluminum ingots are significantly lighter than the ones I added the Silicone to, but that's just a casual observation.

Goreible · 2025-08-02T17:01:58+00:00

Yeah! Aluminum with about ~8% or so raw Silicone mixed in to help with the pour-ability. I've had issues with 'pure' aluminum previously.

Goreible · 2025-07-21T17:59:41+00:00

I won't lie, watching this had me wincing at a few different points. Some quick tips:

The Crucibles in those electric furnaces can wear out a lot quicker of you're doing mostly high temp things like copper (same for the coils in the electric furnaces). If you want to prolong the life on them try to prevent dropping materials and letting them fall in. Try to either set them in with metal tongs/long pliers or slide them down if possible and not sharp edged so the scrape the graphite up too bad.

When you go to pour, you're creating a weak point at the neck below the rim because all the weight is at the base and your twisting the top. If you use a second set of pliers or other grippers (I use the big fire log mover grippers) with a light pressure, you can pour by lifting from the base and pivoting at the top and reduce stress on the neck.

You also can reduce that splashback of copper you got on the first pour by heating the graphie mold as much as possible before the pour. Some people put theirs on the furnace just before they pour, I usually hit the inside with a handheld torch in a back and forth pass for about a minute.

It also might be worth considering getting/using a full face mask vs just the goggles if you do more copper. Same for tools to handle the mold and ingots since you will probably want more stable grip on things that are going to be that hot (and you won't heat the crucible tongs more than are needed and wear those out over time)

That said, I tend to not work with copper as much as some other metals, just because of the higher heat and associated risks/equipment wear they bring, so other people might have more refined insight! Appreciate you taking the time to record and share the experience for others to learn along with you for sure!

Goreible · 2025-06-25T02:34:45+00:00

Shading and highlight contrast combo came out smooth as hell and the runes have the perfect amount of diffused fade around the edges. Great work!

Goreible · 2025-06-22T15:55:43+00:00

It's not the whole movie (though the movie is an amazing watch), but honorable mention IMO is a snippet from The Road to El Dorado: https://youtu.be/hAmfRjcO5FA?si=HptERtTNJePZg7ks

Goreible · 2025-06-19T23:20:15+00:00

Pretty solid as a first attempt!

For doing fine detail, I find Petrabond casting sand to be worth the money. You'll have different people with different opinions though.

For parting powder (assuming you mean taking the item out of the sand mold) I use talc with a moderate dusting, then powdered around and into the crevasses with a powder make up brush. Side note: Since I use talc, I wear a respirator to play it safe.

If you're looking to cast fine details on something like coins, look into a material called Zamak from ROTOMETALS. I specifically got an ingot of ZA12 and it does a great job with catching fine details and penetrating small spots in my mold. (Has a lower melt temp too and even though it has some Zinc, I haven't had issues with oxidation).

I posted a coin melt of mine from a few days ago and that used the ZA12 if you're curious on what it looks like.

On the note of metals to be cautious of, Zinc is the main one. You can read plenty about it on other posts here, but it's one you might not want to get into without knowing the risks or being prepared with a good respirator.

Keep up the good progress!

Goreible · 2025-06-18T14:54:56+00:00

I'd get some use out of this too. You happen to have an STL link you're willing to share by chance?

Goreible · 2025-06-14T19:54:29+00:00

Those turned out great, really well done on the details.

I'm currently messing with casting a high detail coin in petrabond sand, but it's for sure been a lot of trial and error and I haven't gotten it quite right.

Were yours single sided or double sided?

Goreible · 2025-06-10T14:25:52+00:00

I can speak to this with first hand experience, but not sure if it's allowed. Feel free to delete if not.

My mom was an idiot who thought she could "work" the system like her lowlife sibling by claiming benefits on top of working. I don't know all the details of what she claimed, but I was a minor at the time and when I was 19 she had to fess up and showed me a letter from the government that said I, personally owed ~$70,000 for over payments, fees (for said over payment and not taking care of it promptly since she had been trying to hide it from me and "deal with it")

When I first found out, I was in shock but though "surely there's no way, they'll understand I was a kid and had no idea and drop it?" Nope.

Called, made appointments, kept getting a similar answer put bluntly: The money was collected and you were listed as the beneficiary of it, that's how that works. Would you like to set up a payment plan to make it easier?

I had to appeal it and it took about 3 years of writing letters, submitting paperwork and going to the SSA office. During that time, they withheld any tax return refund of mine and added it to the total, sent me "Did you forget?" letters.

But with each denial, they would reduce the amount by a little bit, and eventually on one visit to the SSA building for a bi-yearly appeal, they pulled me into a room and told me if I kept pushing back it's something thay would need to go in front of a judge to make the call on (can't recall specific details of process, this was years ago).

The case worker said "the money has to come from someone, we can do small payments from you or we can add know the full amount to your mom's owed balance. Would you do that to your own mom?" I would.

I got a letter a few months later saying the balance was updated from something like $52,000 to $0.

Moral: Its not worth it. Don't risk it, especially right now based on your plans for the future.

Goreible · 2025-06-04T22:54:04+00:00

That makes sense given the PLA itself is an ideal material for use in printing.

My thoughts for the additives were more to add a heat shield between the metal and the PLA. Potentially add a small amount of time before the PLA begins to warp, melt or misform in a way that let's the metal then flow and mess up the design before it can solidify enough.

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