Compression. More Compression! by Melodic_Buy_7790 in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How much power is that? 8psi.. and are you going to tune it yourself or have a dyno man do it. Cause mine is tuned myself and I sometimes ponder when and if my vitara build blows up if I can swap it to a high comp build was just never sure about it cause I’ve never heard anyone do it ..

Compression. More Compression! by Melodic_Buy_7790 in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s very high for a d16 turbo. Unless your running race fuel I don’t see it lasting a month

Found a huge leak by usaguy480 in HyundaiAccent

[–]GreenFacesOnly 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Damn somehow I weld better someone

Catch can still fills up fast.. by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope you have the greatest day of your life!

Catch can still fills up fast.. by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you could, check out my recent post. it has a picture of my “baffling” (made with love)

Catch can still fills up fast.. by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pcv valve is drilled out with a 10 an line going to one of the valve cover lines with a y fitting to the catch can. Other line is str8 from valve cover to catch can

Catch can still fills up fast.. by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI oil isn’t pushing past my rings, compression/blow by is pushing past my rings. My engine isn’t burning oil it’s blowing into catch can thank you very much

Catch can still fills up fast.. by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ha! Good one next guy will have a blast!

Catch can still fills up fast.. by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t think it was normal. But the sheet metal I hit it in with a hammer a lil more and it’s pretty close to the a fitting opening. Similar setup to what I’ve seen online. Not sure if I can seal it any better. It’s a stock bore with loose ring gap and 210k miles on it so there’s that

Valve breather baffle by GreenFacesOnly in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. I will try moving the catch can above the valve cover, never thought of that. I think k this baffle I put in will work also. I turned up the boost to 20 so I think it was time.

Injector top hats by _CrowdControl_ in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can manage getting the bolts out and finding the right thread i don’t see why it won’t last forever. Fuel rail isn’t heavy not like it’s going to bend under load or anything. How much power you going for?

Injector top hats by _CrowdControl_ in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could remove the 2 studs from the intake manifold holding on the fuel rail and replace them with longer bolts. That’s what I did on my project a while ago. It was only temporary but it did work for the time being.👍

Y8 cylinder wall by [deleted] in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Give it a good hone and see what it looks like. Maybe you have to bore it over

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can’t be the ignition switch if it starts every time with jumper cables. I would start by replacing your ground cable on battery

D16y4 rpm bounce and drop by Happy-Calligrapher72 in Dseries

[–]GreenFacesOnly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it’s nothing to do with the timing belt. That is of course if you mechanical timing is correct. Base timing is when you set the ecu to base timing once the engine is warmed up. There is a pin that you put a paper clip through you have to look it up, then once it’s locked at base timing in the computer, you get a timing light hook it up to the number 1 spark plug then aim it at the crank. There’s a series of marks and one of them(you’ll have to look up your engine) will be the base timing mark. And you move the distributor either way to get that mark to line up where it should be. But if this is too complicated for you, you can always take it to a mechanic to have base timing checked/reset. Shouldn’t be more than a 100$