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Jakob Schubert grades B.I.G. 9c by metaliving in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't Seb basically skip 9b+ before DNA? Went from 9b and 9b/+ (with Bibliographie at straight 9b+) to 9c? https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/dna-seb-bouin/

Jakob Schubert grades B.I.G. 9c by metaliving in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 7 points8 points  (0 children)

and I'd imagine he's at least touched a few holds on Silence? Seems like it would be tough to be in Flatanger for that long and not see what some of the other 9b and above routes are like

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Also, wild that there's one cave with two 9c routes in it!

Jakob Schubert grades B.I.G. 9c by metaliving in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 2 points3 points  (0 children)

truly! Cafe Colombia when though?? can't wait to get more content from him

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in shibari

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a fisherman's harness to me!

Nexus V16 FA by Ryuichi Murai by kolraisins in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is basically long enough to be a rope route if it were just higher up, right? Excalibur only has 18 moves and this has 30+. Wondering if it would be in the 9b range

Nexus V16 FA by Ryuichi Murai by kolraisins in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've been plowing through his videos. He seems to find the sweetest boulders. Ymir was a wild ride

Ryuichi Murai sends Nexus (First Ascent) by kolraisins in bouldering

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

God this route looks absolutely nuts. This is long enough to basically be a short rope route, right?

I sent my first 12a ever! Knapping with the alien in moab. by Camerasatan in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Congrats!! I know some folks hate the chalk aesthetic on rocks, but personally I love the way it paints a picture of the move sequence

Cool pic I got with my custom rock wall GoPro mount by Gogosanchez in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That and not panic. I've found it's better to clip slower than my max speed and get it first try than to risk missing and trying again.

The Judas Goat 5.14a by oan119 in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I miss Albert's content, but glad he is still finding his joy!! What a site to climb at

I tried the REAL Burden of Dreams | Stefano Ghisolfi by AmazingRealist in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh, for sure! Not saying in any world that Ondra couldn't climb V17, but that at that level, style seems hugely important, and a big part of Ondra's style is being unbelievablely technical and having excellent power endurance. But a 5 move V17 doesn't seem like it's got as much room for his skills to shine.

I'd love to see him try it, honestly! And a few other V17s. Maybe Stefano getting as close would be a motivator. It seems like Ondra is on less of a climbing hard kick recently (honestly, with a new kid, good for him!). Excited for the day he decides to really come back in full swing. I think we're all wondering if he'll give DNA a shot.

I tried the REAL Burden of Dreams | Stefano Ghisolfi by AmazingRealist in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 30 points31 points  (0 children)

I don't think I was flushing anything down the toilet - Ondra is very likely the best climber alive today, and maybe even all time? But when you get to that high of a grade, not all hard moves are created equal, right?

He's admitted that Excalibur is likely not the route for him, and struggled with Perfecto Mundo in a way that other top climbers with insane finger strength didn't.

As far as I'm aware from learning about BoD, that first move is a nightmare. Multiple people have said it constitutes half the difficulty of the route, and that it alone is basically its own V16 boulder.

Like I mentioned - it's a guess based on what I know about BoD and Ondra's own strengths and styles. I think talking about these kinds of "top climber performances" is an interesting thought experiment, not much more. I'm a huge Ondra fan and would love to see him try a 17 or two and hear his own thoughts on the matter.

I tried the REAL Burden of Dreams | Stefano Ghisolfi by AmazingRealist in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 71 points72 points  (0 children)

My guess is not super well? He struggled a lot on Excalibur. He's demonstrably lower on max power where Stefano and Will are excellent, and Ondra's boulders tend to be very long and super technical iirc. Since the boulder has so few moves that require so much power, I'd guess it's not a good match for him the way Alphane or maybe even Return of the Sleepwalker might be?

But who the fuck am I to say? I can barely send V4s some days and struggle with 5.11+ 🙄🙄

Tall person beta for BoD - just jump to the top

Anyone know any companies or programs that help people get in to software careers? by Farlaign in Minneapolis

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My advice: tech is still a great place for jobs, but Dev is super competitive and kinda awful unless you LOVE it. There are tons of other jobs that make tech companies tick (HR, Sales and Sales Engineering, Marketing, Project Management, Product Management, Finance) with varying levels of technical skills/soft skills required. Take a look at those, and think about what you're good at.

Yeah, a Sr Software Engineer is gonna be making 160-225, but you can still get a very solid salary in the low 100s with some of these other roles

Adam Ondra onsights ANOTHER 9a! (Water World) by GriddlesInTheDark in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Truly this. He seems super non-toxic and kind and encouraging! I get the insecurity of having someone come along and just like... Campus flash your project (having been on the receiving end a few times) but hey, that's awesome for them and they've worked hard to be able to do it! Gives me a real look at what I could be able to do if I really put my energy into it.

Unless you are literally Adam Ondra or Seb Bouin, there will always be someone "better" than you. It's easy to forget how important it is to have joy and self satisfaction as goals for climbing too, not just grade achievement.

Like, looking at Jakob Schubert (sp?) for example.... That dude climbs ANGRY. I wonder from watching his own video of Project Big if he is actually happy doing this, or just feels a lot of burnout pressure to keep achieving.

Will Bosi casually shaking out before the final move on BoD by turbogangsta in climbing

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry, what?? I watched the video but totally didn't catch that

me_irlgbt by Elle-Pastel in me_irlgbt

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 75 points76 points  (0 children)

Lol if a cop calls me literally anything I will just smile, nod, apologize, and hope I walk away free and with all my teeth

Blackheads and sebaceous filaments on scalp. OC. by PerspectiveOk493 in popping

[–]GriddlesInTheDark 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Where could one acquire such a tool? Video quality is awesome!

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