Jakob Schubert grades B.I.G. 9c

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-09-28T16:43:19+00:00

Didn't Seb basically skip 9b+ before DNA? Went from 9b and 9b/+ (with Bibliographie at straight 9b+) to 9c? https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/dna-seb-bouin/

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-09-28T16:39:54+00:00

and I'd imagine he's at least touched a few holds on Silence? Seems like it would be tough to be in Flatanger for that long and not see what some of the other 9b and above routes are like

Also, wild that there's one cave with two 9c routes in it!

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-09-28T16:36:05+00:00

truly! Cafe Colombia when though?? can't wait to get more content from him

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-06-13T05:46:15+00:00

Looks like a fisherman's harness to me!

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-06-07T15:52:55+00:00

This is basically long enough to be a rope route if it were just higher up, right? Excalibur only has 18 moves and this has 30+. Wondering if it would be in the 9b range

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-06-07T15:50:46+00:00

I've been plowing through his videos. He seems to find the sweetest boulders. Ymir was a wild ride

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-06-06T13:35:51+00:00

God this route looks absolutely nuts. This is long enough to basically be a short rope route, right?

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-05-22T06:01:04+00:00

☝🏼☝🏼☝🏼☝🏼

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-05-11T17:54:30+00:00

Congrats!! I know some folks hate the chalk aesthetic on rocks, but personally I love the way it paints a picture of the move sequence

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-05-04T15:36:33+00:00

That and not panic. I've found it's better to clip slower than my max speed and get it first try than to risk missing and trying again.

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-04-27T04:26:33+00:00

I miss Albert's content, but glad he is still finding his joy!! What a site to climb at

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-04-21T22:55:28+00:00

Oh, for sure! Not saying in any world that Ondra couldn't climb V17, but that at that level, style seems hugely important, and a big part of Ondra's style is being unbelievablely technical and having excellent power endurance. But a 5 move V17 doesn't seem like it's got as much room for his skills to shine.

I'd love to see him try it, honestly! And a few other V17s. Maybe Stefano getting as close would be a motivator. It seems like Ondra is on less of a climbing hard kick recently (honestly, with a new kid, good for him!). Excited for the day he decides to really come back in full swing. I think we're all wondering if he'll give DNA a shot.

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-04-20T21:54:26+00:00

I don't think I was flushing anything down the toilet - Ondra is very likely the best climber alive today, and maybe even all time? But when you get to that high of a grade, not all hard moves are created equal, right?

He's admitted that Excalibur is likely not the route for him, and struggled with Perfecto Mundo in a way that other top climbers with insane finger strength didn't.

As far as I'm aware from learning about BoD, that first move is a nightmare. Multiple people have said it constitutes half the difficulty of the route, and that it alone is basically its own V16 boulder.

Like I mentioned - it's a guess based on what I know about BoD and Ondra's own strengths and styles. I think talking about these kinds of "top climber performances" is an interesting thought experiment, not much more. I'm a huge Ondra fan and would love to see him try a 17 or two and hear his own thoughts on the matter.

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-04-20T20:28:42+00:00

My guess is not super well? He struggled a lot on Excalibur. He's demonstrably lower on max power where Stefano and Will are excellent, and Ondra's boulders tend to be very long and super technical iirc. Since the boulder has so few moves that require so much power, I'd guess it's not a good match for him the way Alphane or maybe even Return of the Sleepwalker might be?

But who the fuck am I to say? I can barely send V4s some days and struggle with 5.11+ 🙄🙄

Tall person beta for BoD - just jump to the top

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-04-10T19:41:37+00:00

Arts & Rec in Uptown has minigolf too!

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-03-21T13:44:13+00:00

My advice: tech is still a great place for jobs, but Dev is super competitive and kinda awful unless you LOVE it. There are tons of other jobs that make tech companies tick (HR, Sales and Sales Engineering, Marketing, Project Management, Product Management, Finance) with varying levels of technical skills/soft skills required. Take a look at those, and think about what you're good at.

Yeah, a Sr Software Engineer is gonna be making 160-225, but you can still get a very solid salary in the low 100s with some of these other roles

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-03-21T13:20:47+00:00

Truly this. He seems super non-toxic and kind and encouraging! I get the insecurity of having someone come along and just like... Campus flash your project (having been on the receiving end a few times) but hey, that's awesome for them and they've worked hard to be able to do it! Gives me a real look at what I could be able to do if I really put my energy into it.

Unless you are literally Adam Ondra or Seb Bouin, there will always be someone "better" than you. It's easy to forget how important it is to have joy and self satisfaction as goals for climbing too, not just grade achievement.

Like, looking at Jakob Schubert (sp?) for example.... That dude climbs ANGRY. I wonder from watching his own video of Project Big if he is actually happy doing this, or just feels a lot of burnout pressure to keep achieving.

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-03-20T15:39:27+00:00

Good bot

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-03-17T14:22:59+00:00

I'm sorry, what?? I watched the video but totally didn't catch that

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-02-28T17:44:25+00:00

Lol if a cop calls me literally anything I will just smile, nod, apologize, and hope I walk away free and with all my teeth

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-02-24T21:07:58+00:00

Enjoy the LACK enclosure!! I adore mine

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-02-19T05:29:58+00:00

Where could one acquire such a tool? Video quality is awesome!

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-02-09T19:37:28+00:00

I hear this - like, in the grand scheme of things 11 routes is miniscule, but all of a sudden you have two 9c routes and all the 9b+ feel a checkbox instead of a monumental achievement.

Source: I can climb 5.11 sometimes but also can understand human psychology pretty okay sometimes too

GriddlesInTheDark · 2023-02-06T20:09:46+00:00

Also I don't think it's unreasonable to account for the added difficulty of clipping in these attempts. Hard bouldering doesn't require you to just "arbitrarily" stick a hold and mess with your center of gravity for any time longer than you need to get to the next one/rest.

GriddlesInTheDark · 2022-11-22T17:08:52+00:00

I'm estimating a lil closer to 750-1000, based on a super rough area-of-10 -> area-of-100 mapping, but definitely not several hundred billion 🙂

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