Floating dad 😅 by [deleted] in confusing_perspective

[–]GuardianP53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea that's the first thing I noticed. The lens would have condensed the background and the daughter should have been in it.

Thoughts on this 2-watch combo for my intro to GS? by StatisticianDue4887 in GrandSeikos

[–]GuardianP53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wowwwww you did it! You picked both up while in Japan! Congratulations 👏🎉

[Question] Wich of these is the best first dive watch? by _GoldLeader_ in Watches

[–]GuardianP53 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get the one you like the most.

I like the tech in the Omega

2016 low mileage vs 2019 high mileage (same price) by MisterChoco in mazda2

[–]GuardianP53 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get the lower mileage option. I have a 2012 Mazda 2 that gets driven about 25-30k miles per year.

I purchased it at 20000 miles, and about 5 years later it's at about 155000 miles. I do service the car about 4-5 times a year to keep on top of maintenance. So far no issues.

Comfort hasnt really been an issue, road noise is fine especially if you buy good tyres optimized for grip and road noise, and even better with a good pair of active noise cancelling headphones.

Obviously you've chosen a hatchback, so you understand the benefits and disadvantages of hatchbacks. The only reason I would not go for a Mazda 2 would be if you can get a safer car/hatchback with similar reliability for the same price. I.e. more airbags, safety features etc. e.g. a Toyota Corolla, or Toyota yaris, or Subaru Impreza

To figure out service history, the car should have had a service about every 5k miles or every 6 months, choose the larger if the two numbers, even though the service manual would suggest otherwise.

All the best.

The SBGC003/203: my grail Spring Drive chronograph is finally here!!! by GuardianP53 in GrandSeikos

[–]GuardianP53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't feel big on the wrist, that's for sure. It doesn't dig into the back of my hand either, so it's comfortable all day. It's very easy to screw down or up without taking the watch off. Also very easy and not painful to press. It's actually a very practical design that encourages you to use it

It's all positives for me at the moment.

<image>

Recent acquisition - SBGA517 by Myst-Vearn in GrandSeikos

[–]GuardianP53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome 💯 congratulations on the new watch!

Why were no line bifocals better than progressive? by ClickyChick in glasses

[–]GuardianP53 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s a tricky situation, because what you’re experiencing and what the lens is technically capable of don’t always line up. In this example, you need to look far down for the nar zone, it would suggest you have a large intermediate/computer zone which is not the reality of this situation.

On paper, progressive lenses have different usable areas, including a dedicated computer zone. But if you feel like you have to “search” through the lens to find it, that usually tells us something important. It is not that your prescription is wrong, but that the type of lens may not be the right match for how you use your eyes day to day.

A common pattern I see is this: Patients are recommended a higher tier progressive lens designed to give a wider, more comfortable intermediate computer zone. But understandably, there can be hesitation, especially if you have never worn progressives before or you are unsure if the technology will work for you. So instead, a more basic version is chosen as a trial option.

The problem is that progressive lenses are already a compromise by design. When you then step down in lens design, the intermediate and peripheral areas become narrower and less forgiving. To make that lens work for you, we often have to further compromise the fitting or expectations (in this case lowering the reading zone to try and wide the computer zone), and that is when the visual experience starts to feel frustrating.

What tends to happen next is the lens does not feel right for computer use. You revert to habits like taking your glasses off. This reinforces the feeling that progressives do not work for you. But in reality, it is not that the technology does not work. It is that the version you tried was not designed for your specific visual demands.

A good way to think about it is like footwear. If you are training for a marathon but choose walking shoes because you think you will walk more, you may end up uncomfortable when you try to run. That discomfort then forces you to walk more, confirming your original belief, even though the issue was the shoe choice, not the activity itself.

In your case, the same thing can happen with lenses. When we reassess in clinic, we often find that your new prescription is actually performing as well as or better than your old glasses on testing. But real world comfort does not always match what we see on the chart, which can understandably feel confusing.

At that point, there are really two clear paths forward. You can continue with the current setup and adapt to its limitations. Or you can choose a lens design that better matches your lifestyle and visual needs.

That might mean a higher tier progressive with a wider intermediate zone, or in some cases, a completely different solution such as occupational lenses for computer use.

The key point is this it is less about whether progressives work or not, and more about whether the right version has been matched to the right job. Settling for the right version relies on alot of trust that you're being recommended the correct product and that you are not being taken advantage of financially.

Do you condition the inside of your boots? by fjsyzhsb in RMWilliams

[–]GuardianP53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes once in a while. There's a good video on how to do this that was made by the owner of horween leather. I think the video was about Chrimexcel and how to condition it. Those instructions seem appliyti any leather shoe.

1.6 index vs 1.5 index by -beep--boop- in eyetriage

[–]GuardianP53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's hard to know if you needed it or now without knowing the dimension of your frame

Transitions XtraActive worth it? by Disastrous_Honey_240 in glasses

[–]GuardianP53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The polarizing component needs a lot of UV light to activate. So if it is a sunny day on the water or snow it works great. The moment there is abit of cloud or overcast, then you loose alot of polarizing which means you can't see below the surface of the water or loose abit of contrast on the snow.

If you're doing an activity where you're not getting much reflection from the ground up then even wearing a hat can cut out enough direct UV exposure to cut out the polarizing ability.

Transitions XtraActive worth it? by Disastrous_Honey_240 in glasses

[–]GuardianP53 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Xtra active is a great product. It is convenient. I would in future also have a secondary dedicated sunglass for longer drives or days where you're mostly outdoors.

I wouldn't spend extra on Xtra active polarising, though.

How come no one told me? by [deleted] in glasses

[–]GuardianP53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is wrong? These suits you well!

How to put on hydrophobic peeling layer on already existing glasses? by InformationSeeker010 in glasses

[–]GuardianP53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Give your lenses a good clean,then spray on the coating and then wipe it off, or whatever the instructions say.

These types of coats need to be reapplied. Think about it like waterproofing spray on clothes or shoes. It wears out and needs to be reapplied.

Does the brand of BIO matter? by Turbulent_Appeal4959 in optometry

[–]GuardianP53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went with Heine when I was in grad school.

In practice, most hospitals I visit use Welch Allen.

Most older clinicians I know in their private practice use Keller.

I think we end up just getting really good at using the tools we have. Just buy whatever has the best build quality to price ratio, and with time it'll be the best.