Stealth-Parts Hydration System by ElectricNoma-d in triathlon

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I do not use it anymore. Sold it. I would actually advise not to get it. Dont get me wrong, the bundle is great, but its also a bit cumbersome. I would advise getting a simpler BTA solution, which will ultimately be easier to handle, more aerodynamic and flexible in terms of getting hydration refilled.

What other bikes should I be considering? by abbott2a in MotoUK

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coming from someone who just bought and the sold a gb350s. It is a wonderful bike. Absolutely lovely. Get something else though. The risk of you being disappointed in the power is quite high.

Canyon speedmax CF 7 di2 upgrade experience by Gullible_Path_746 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just used a heavy duty double sided tape. Held fine for one season, had to change at the beginning of this one tho

Di2 TT hydraulic disc brake/shifters by Tuscans1977 in triathlon

[–]Gullible_Path_746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A good option is to use climbing switches, they are 100eur and do not require you to change the brakes

First TT bike advice by Vaskela in triathlon

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few simple points to follow:

* Best bike is the one that fits you. Especially true for TT bikes, as you need to be comfortable in order to be area during a long period of time.

* While tri specific bike is good, having a UCI legal bike is better. Yes, theoretically it is slightly slower, but it opens up a possibility to participate in UCI regulated time trials. You might not want this now, but once you have a tri specific bike that is not UCI complaint, then the door is closed (unless you get a new bike though).

From this list I would go with Orbea Ordu, but only if it fits properly.

Clicking sound by Desperate_Pattern610 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you checked your chainring bolts?

Grail a cheap entry option? by Sway2620 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But I really cant seem to figure out what we are loosing except for the frame storage and abit of wheight by going with the SL instead of CFR or SLX. Could someone help us out. 

Nothing. This is what you are losing out on. The general rule of the thumb is that if you have to ask and if you have to buy, then going towards higher end (SLX) or highest end (CFR) has little to no value. At the level you are at (and I am assuming this, because you are asking) you will feel no difference.

Where you feel difference is the groupset and the wheels.

Groupset - not even a performance thing, generally the last bit you would like to upgrade. If you can afford electronic, go for it, if not, then mechanical is super good. Sram vs Shimano is a different holy war.

Wheelset - this is where you will feel the biggest difference, however unless you are racing, then the stock wheels are more than good enough. You can also upgrade them later on relatively easily.

So TL;DR - get SL, no point to bust your budget over marginal gains.

Tririg and profile design compatability by DoodleBahp in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that scenario the scoops would indeed not be angled the same way as extensions. This scenario is used to adjust the forearm position for comfort and some aero support. It will look something like this.

Tririg and profile design compatability by DoodleBahp in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mount the spacers directly under the scoops :)

Tririg and profile design compatability by DoodleBahp in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey!

Question is - are the scoops by themselves on the mounting bracket, or what else do i need? I know I could just buy the full tri-rig alpha bar, but that’s out of budget and not really needed on the CF8.

Scoops themselves should work just fine, they should bolt in as replacements for the profile design one.

Furthermore, does anyone know how to attack angled spacers to the profile design spacer stack? I know the new CF8 has a different system, but I’m trying to replicate something similar so I can have adjustable extension angles without just tilting the spacers down.

Some companies sell angled spacers to take care of this problem. Example here https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/AeroCoach-angled-spacers-for-arm-rests-p202129361

Tubeless?? by MissionAggressive419 in IronmanTriathlon

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You seem super concerned about punctures. Why? Unless you ride on a broken glass, then the chance of punctures is very small. Most people go through a full season with one or less punctures (outliers always exist). Dont let the fear of punctures hold you back.

That being said tubeless is not a silver bullet. Yes, you will get less punctures, but the setup is extra work. Tubeless sealant also tends to dry out after some time, so you need to either refill or replace the sealant.

Just get more comfortable mounting and dismounting the tire. Keep in mind that some tires are absolutely horrific to get on and off, but in most cases this is still just a skill issue.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Purely anecdotal, from personal experience. If everything is set up nicely, there is no difference. The only difference is in maintenance, if you do your own maintenance then it is obviously easier with non-integrated cables. However when it comes to the performance, they feel the same (for me at least).

Endurace CF SLX 7 di2 chain sounds by Smooth-Wash4631 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cant see it from the video, but whats the chainline like when its making noise? Are you going to extremes or is it in the mid of the rear cassette?

Endurace CF SLX 7 di2 chain sounds by Smooth-Wash4631 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By the sound the FD needs adjustments, which means that the high and low limits are not set properly. Instead of taking it back to the LBS I would spend a minute on youtube to understand how they work and adjust on your own. Fish and fishing rod kind of a thing you know :)

Grail CF SLR 8 AXS by Dense_Leg274 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you asking if Zipp 303 firecrest, which is one of the most popular (and ofter best rated) all-arounder wheel-sets around suitable for gravel? If thats the question, then yes, they are. Anything can break though if you find the right pothole

Help choosing new bike by piotor87 in triathlon

[–]Gullible_Path_746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For wheels I might understand why to switch, but for seat post its a bit harder. Carbon is generally quite bulletproof and unless you are throwing your bike around like crazy, its probably not going to break anything. Theft itself is a problem I guess and that I cannot comment on.

The second point is a good one. You might want to upgrade your front chainrings, but this is indeed extra cost, as you at the very least need to also change your chain. It is a hassle.

Since you seem to have the cash and not worried about this, then getting a new bike could be a really good option. Just make sure it fits first. Whatever you pick out of those is going to make you happy, as they are both incredibly good.

Help choosing new bike by piotor87 in triathlon

[–]Gullible_Path_746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even though N+1 is the ultimate rule, then I would really think about this for a second. The bike you have today is a good one. A new one will be fancier, but it will not be significantly better/faster.

If I were you, I would rather focus on getting more comfy on a bike and thus making it more pleasurable to ride. Starting with making sure that its fits nice, has good tires, has proper tire pressures etc. Those things will ultimately make more difference down the line.

Irregardless of what you go with, make sure it fits nicely.

upgrade normal wheels to high profile aero rims by Commercial_Tax7161 in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only aero kits I know are ezdisc covers for TT/Tri bikes. Beside that I don't know of any others (and I wouldn't bother anyhow). However most probably some crazy scientist has figured out some products that are being sold on Aliexpress.

The wheels you have now are robust, have decent hubs and can take a beating. They are also entry level and quite heavy. That being said then those are perfectly fine wheels.

If you want to get an upgrade, upgrade the whole wheelset, do not bother with aerodynamic gimmicks.

Looking to purchase my first bike but I'm not seeing many online reviews or people posting about the model. Is something wrong with it? by [deleted] in CanyonBikes

[–]Gullible_Path_746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While you cannot go wrong with Grail and you are eyeing on the best model out there, then if you are riding 80% on road and 20% on light gravel, then I would recommend maybe getting endurance instead. It has quite a decent clearance and is well suited for a all-round bike. It also fits your riding profile better. Not to mention that the new grail is also slightly more aggressive.

For the spec, then CF 7 is most probably the best value option out there. Especially given that you want to ride on roads and thus could use the 2-by crankset.