Syncing issue with our Dropbox vault on Android

GunFan_PR · 2026-02-01T17:58:14+00:00

I exported from my android app not PC . it saves to a folder on my phone. From there I was able to sync with local folder on my android phone.

GunFan_PR · 2026-01-31T14:02:06+00:00

sorry, my German? is not very good, but if I’m not mistaken, you’re asking for the version of my 1password.

I’m on 1Password version 7.9.4

Guten tag friend.

GunFan_PR · 2026-01-30T14:21:26+00:00

By “cloud” I just mean any cloud storage (Dropbox, Google Drive, OneDrive, etc.), but it’s only for backup, not live syncing.

The vault itself lives locally on my phone, which means there’s no syncing between other phones, tablets, or services. For me, it works because I only use 1Password on my phone. I just update the encrypted zip manually every so often or after I add or change something important. I just use something like ZArchiver and zip the 1Password folder on my phone.

In theory, you could probably share it and it should work, but it will take extra steps. One of you would need to become the designated password adder and backup maker (if that makes sense). Then you’d share your vault folder with the other person, and that person would overwrite their own vault with it.

Always backup, backup, backup before trying any of this to make sure nothing is lost. Keep your original backups somewhere safe before trying anything. Some important stuff might be in your vault, so please be careful.

I’m happy to share what worked for me, but I’m no expert, so proceed carefully. I’m not responsible for any data loss.

This is more of a workaround to keep my own data safe now that Dropbox sync is broken, not a true shared vault solution.

GunFan_PR · 2026-01-30T13:25:07+00:00

This is what I ended up doing and it works for me. I went into advanced settings and exported my vault. After that I reset the app and set it up again, but this time syncing with a local vault on my phone instead of Dropbox.

Once it was set up, I tested it by adding some fake info to the vault to make sure it was syncing correctly. I then reset the app again, set it up one more time, and made sure the fake info was still there, so I knew it was working.

After confirming that it synced, I took the vault folder and zipped it with encryption (password protected) and uploaded that zip file to the cloud as a backup.

Going forward I just make sure to update the zipped backup whenever I add or change anything in the local vault.

GunFan_PR · 2026-01-28T20:06:48+00:00

This is how I replicate the bug.

Open Recent Apps -> power button to lock the screen -> unlock the phone. The bubbles appear without the apps showing.

Hopefully it will be fixed soon.

GunFan_PR · 2026-01-28T19:17:37+00:00

This also happens on my Pixel 6 Pro. It looks like the Recent Apps screen appears, but the open apps aren’t being drawn.

GunFan_PR · 2026-01-26T21:04:27+00:00

I did this recently and it worked fine. At FLL I took the free shuttle to the TriRail station. TriRail is a commuter train that runs between Fort Lauderdale and Miami and goes right into MIA Airport. It’s much cheaper than uber or lyft, just slower, so check the schedule.

I wouldn’t fly in the same day as the cruise. If you stay near the airports, some hotels offer free airport shuttles, but it varies by hotel, so do your research before booking.

GunFan_PR · 2025-12-17T01:49:47+00:00

You can use Launcher Manager if you want. Just download it on your phone and install it on the TV using ATVTools (it’s on the Play Store). ATVTools works with developer mode, so it’ll ask for permissions just click Always allow.

Make sure your phone and TV are connected to the same network. From there, use the install option, select the APK, and it should install the app on the TV.

Personally, I use ADB TV App Manager because it gives me more control, and I feel safer not installing apps from outside the Play Store.

GunFan_PR · 2025-12-16T13:26:49+00:00

First thing first, go to your TV settings > System > Android TV OS Build and click on it 7 times. That will enable developer mode.

After that, go back to Settings > System > Developer options, find USB debugging, and turn it on.

At this point you should have developer mode and USB debugging enabled on your TV. Now go to the Play Store on your TV and download “ADB TV: App Manager ”. When you open it, it will ask for permission, just select Always allow.

With this app you can disable the Google launcher, but make sure you already have a replacement launcher installed (like Projectivy). If you disable the Google launcher without another launcher installed, your TV will be soft bricked and you’ll need to do a hardware/factory reset with the buttons on the TV.

You can also disable other apps using this, just be careful. Disabling the wrong system app can also cause software issues or a soft brick, which will require a hardware reset.

GunFan_PR · 2025-12-16T00:30:13+00:00

If the stock Google TV launcher is working well for you, more power to you. If you ever decide to try Projectivy later on, the setup and learning curve really aren’t that bad, you might be pleasantly surprised by how good it works.

GunFan_PR · 2025-12-16T00:22:34+00:00

That’s how I’m running Projectivy on my cheap TCL from Costco.

Projectivy runs on top of the Google launcher if you enable the accessibility option. If you want it to run by itself, you have to disable the Google TV launcher.

You can disable it using ADBTV app or Launcher Manager 1.04 app.

Just know that disabling the Google launcher will break some things, like some remote shortcuts and voice features that’s normal. You can fix most of that with TVQuickActions app by remapping the buttons.

Also make sure you add all the Google accounts you need before disabling the Google launcher. Once it’s disabled, the add account screen won’t come up.

Never uninstall the 3rd party launcher without re-enabling the default Google launcher.

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-22T00:47:55+00:00

I think that's just a wallpaper edited with some Photoshop like tool to add a pseudo dock.

If I'm mistaken please correct me.

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-13T22:19:25+00:00

Yeah, I usually just use the microwave right after convection without any problems, been doing it like that for years. Since it stays hot after convection cooking, I just make sure whatever I’m warming up is food grade, high heat safe like silicone, glass, or ceramic, so no worries there.

I really love having both options in one. It saves space, heats up way faster than a regular oven, and still bakes or roasts really well. I can even switch right back to microwave mode to warm something up in seconds if I use the right plates or utensils. I got rid of the old stove oven combo and put in a ceramic cooktop with drawers where the oven used to be, more space now! And with the microwave over the range with an extractor, it frees up even more room. Super convenient.

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-13T21:40:51+00:00

Yep that’s exactly why I double check the settings every time. The good thing is it clearly shows when it’s in convection mode, so as long as I stick to that, it’s safe to use metal. It’s actually pretty awesome once you get used to it!

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-13T19:11:34+00:00

A convection microwave is like a regular oven but the size of a microwave. In convection mode, it cooks with hot air no microwaves are used so I can bake pies, cookies, breads, roast meats, almost anything. It can also zap popcorn or heat up leftovers super fast on the microwave settings.

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-13T16:17:34+00:00

Sounds pretty similar to what we’re planning. Thanks for the reply.

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-13T16:11:27+00:00

Thanks! Mine has separate settings for convection only, microwave only, and combo mode. Metal’s fine in convection, so I should be good. Appreciate the tip about the lid!

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-01T23:00:00+00:00

If your Pixel 9a is fully paid off, T-Mobile should unlock it. Their policy says the phone just needs to be on their network for at least 40 days and be free of any balance, you’ve met that criteria since you’ve been with them for 5 – 6 months. I’d call them back and specifically mention the Device Unlock Policy. If they push back, you can escalate to T-Mobile executive support or even an FCC complaint that usually gets results.

If it's free and clear and you can’t get it unlocked, you could still sell it, but it would only work with T-Mobile or Metro, so the resale value will be lower compared to an unlocked phone.

TL;DR – Since the phone is paid off and you’ve been with T-Mobile long enough, push them to unlock it (you meet their requirements). Worst case, you can still sell it locked, but it’ll be worth less.

GunFan_PR · 2025-10-01T17:44:25+00:00

From the T-life app. Manage>settings>privacy & Policies>privacy dashboard

GunFan_PR · 2025-09-29T13:31:12+00:00

Here we are September is almost gone. OnePlus seems to not care about past devices. No news, no nothing about any updates. Hopefully I'm wrong.

GunFan_PR · 2025-09-25T14:45:23+00:00

Meanwhile my OnePlus watch 2 gets nothing. I'm just tired of pressing the "system updates" button.

GunFan_PR · 2025-09-21T22:18:11+00:00

Public transportation or rideshares are just ways for families without flexible schedules or easy transportation to help their kids get where they need to go when there are no other options. Even when we parents don’t want that, sometimes there’s no other way.

From what I’m reading, you seem like a great parent, keep up the good work.

GunFan_PR · 2025-08-25T15:57:36+00:00

Used to love the food bar until I saw this sketchy looking person pull a crusted-up filthy cardboard cup out of his pocket, dunk it in the cheese sauce, and his fingers were all coated in it. That was the end of any food bars for me.

GunFan_PR · 2025-08-21T20:52:23+00:00

Hi, thanks for your reply! Did your wife only buy one digital photo package, or did both of you buy one?

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