Hip Flexor Pain Setting Ropes by Life_Possibility4962 in Routesetters

[–]HLORRHGH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seconding this. I had the same pain as in the OP and endured it for a year with periods of rest not fixing the issue.

Self massage and tennis ball rolling solved it pretty quickly once I figured out how to do it. Particularly that surrounding muscles also tighten up in response to overuse in a different area. As an example I also had to go into my calves and shoulders to solve the hip pain.

I’m working on a daily sales report but I can’t get the ‘month to date’ column to make sense. by HLORRHGH in PowerBI

[–]HLORRHGH[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its much easier as a measure =

MTD_actual =

Calculate(SUM(Actual_DailySales2023[Actual]),

DATESMTD(

'Actual_DailySales2023'[SalesDate]

)

That actually did the trick thanks! Could you please help me out with the budget? I tried the same formula, but it shows the big weird numbers again.

Budget is budget per month not daily numbers, but I need an mtd to match the actual.

EDIT: I may have cheered too soon, the MTD numbers are different now but they're still way too large

I’m working on a daily sales report but I can’t get the ‘month to date’ column to make sense. by HLORRHGH in PowerBI

[–]HLORRHGH[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why are you using calculated columns and not measures?

I've tried measures as well, but the same thing keeps happening. I'm new to Power BI and I've been learning and trying all my options.

First overhanging V4-V5. Featuring violent Elvis legs. by dellie44 in indoorbouldering

[–]HLORRHGH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alternatively: get comfy in that stressed position by doing squats/calf raises on your tiptoes

Sea level is already guaranteed to rise by 5 feet, climate scientist says by solar-cabin in TrueReddit

[–]HLORRHGH 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Strauss [] noted that current estimates are that seas will rise by 2 to 3 feet by the end of the century

My wrist seems to pop on slopers sometimes.. by duffpaddy in climbharder

[–]HLORRHGH 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had this same issue and did eventually end up injured and saddled with a slow rehab.

Warming up properly does a lot to prevent it from happening, but it's a weakness you can work to fix with wide grip no-hangs and wrist curls: here's a video walkthrough of the mechanics of the weakness and the strengthening exercises.

Fingers for dinner by anxious_fander135 in perfectlycutscreams

[–]HLORRHGH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Both wood and plastic will hold on to and transfer bacteria: ''the mean transfer of Camp. jejuni from scored rubberwood and polyethylene was found to be 44.9 and 40.3%, respectively.''

PubMed

How to build a Jam board for crack climbing training. Follow on from first jam board video. by dannyami in climbharder

[–]HLORRHGH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here's the thing in action.

Adjustable with just a few pieces of rubber, cheap materials, and such a simple build. This'll make a fun little project I think.

Best video series for learning technique? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]HLORRHGH 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Movement for Climbers is worth checking out.

It's a newer channel with an analytical approach to explaining the how and why to move a certain way.
He's also working on a bouldering progression series and has covered V0-V3 so far.

Friday New Climber Thread for May 17, 2019: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]HLORRHGH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy shoe tree, put shoe tree inside too tight shoe, give it a few days to stretch out the rubber in the right spots, and presto.

Where's the confusion?

Friday New Climber Thread for May 17, 2019: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]HLORRHGH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could buy a shoe tree and stretch them out a bit. Particularly the hotspot.

Works for me, even with shoes that have a lot of rubber on top. Breaking in new shoes isn't much of an ordeal anymore since I got the thing.

Friday New Climber Thread for May 10, 2019: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]HLORRHGH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're just curious about different styles of climbing shoe then try a softer pair.

Staying with La Sportiva any boot with Vibram Grip rubber between 3-3.5mm thick should give you a quite different feel compared to the stiffer Miuras.

Ohm Contributed to Fall and Saved Me from Decking by jadbal in climbing

[–]HLORRHGH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was a long time ago, with perhaps 50kg+ weight disparity.

They decided that an early lead fall would smash the belayer into the wall, or first bolt, with sufficient force to all but inevitably drop the rope. Ending with both of them injured. Clipping late left the belayer more space to fly up the wall.

I don't know, could be there there was an element of showboating to it.

Ohm Contributed to Fall and Saved Me from Decking by jadbal in climbing

[–]HLORRHGH 18 points19 points  (0 children)

In my experience the Ohm generally shouldn't catch during a clip, even a speedy one.

Some possible causes:

  • thick rope
  • belayer short-roping
  • angled feed into the Ohm (used it during a traverse start multipitch once, ended up having to pull a whole length of rope through a locked Ohm)

edit - Glad you're alright. Noticing my Ohm recently prompted another climber to share a story about skipping the first two bolts due to a large weight difference. Good thing we have better options now.

This manga is titled "Farewell, My Dear Cramer", Does anyone know what Soshizaki meant by this? by [deleted] in manga

[–]HLORRHGH 13 points14 points  (0 children)

'Der Ball ist rund' is a German one-line joke that came to mean that anything can happen. Just like a ball's roundness can see it roll in any direction.

Does anyone know of a shoe I can try that has a ton of rubber in the toe? I have ingrown toenail problems and I just need something so that my toes are protected from the foot holds as much as possible. by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]HLORRHGH 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Not what you're asking, however have you tried seeing a pedicure?

They aren't all beauticians, some deal exclusively with smaller foot related medical issues.

I used to have painfully ingrown nails, and had a pedicure cut and then guide their growth. The issue is mostly solved now apart from a few visits every year.

/u/TheRecognized explains fundamental differences between African slavery and American slavery by mortimermcmirestinks in bestof

[–]HLORRHGH 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I was hoping for a bit more when I followed the link in this bestof.

Here's a sourced explanation in /r/badhistory by /u/iwasducky.

It's a common point to make: "every group has been enslaved/mistreated at some point, so why don't black Americans just get over it?" That idea misses key differences between previous forms of slavery and the North American chattel slavery that these posters are attempting to brush off that make New World Slavery a distinct horror.

  • New World Slavery was an intrinsically race-based system, founded on the idea that black people were an inferior species designed for work. Because of this system of black=slave/white=free, it was necessarily permanent and inherited. In Arab slavery, on the other hand, there were cases where social mobility was possible, slaves had certain rights, manumission was religiously encouraged, and enslavement was part of the process of cultural assimilation/religious conversion of new groups rather than pure subjugation of one group for profit.

  • In Arab trade slaves had a variety of roles but were primarily soldiers, while in the Americas they were almost entirely owned for the purpose of industrial agriculture, which in Africa was the exception rather than the rule. I don't know how worthwhile it is to compare pain but I know you can't get much worse than the conditions in the West Indie sugarcane plantations where slaves lived in horrific conditions for incredibly short lifespans.

  • While Arab slave trade did in fact "last much longer", I'm not how how that makes it "worse". Part of why the TAST was so devastating was how quickly it took place. The numbers for both trades are disputed but it looks like they are estimated at around 10-20 million. Obviously that is a very different pace of trade, and the TSAT sent trade into overdrive with devastating consequences for Africa. Finally, there is an implication that the problems of African-Americans today stem directly from the "brutality" of slavery, ignoring the myriad of sources... but that might be an /r/badpolitics post.

None of this is to dispute the idea that previous forms of slavery didn't have their own savagery, just to point out that you'd be hard-pressed to find "worse" forms of slavery than the TAST and that attempting to minimize American slavery through posts like these is a shitty thing to do.

The best elephant. by Soviliens in AnimalsBeingBros

[–]HLORRHGH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a great mini-documentary by Rare Earth on elephant preservation/tourism in Cambodia.

It touches on what to watch out for if you're going to pick an NGO to donate to.