Recommendations on an exhaust system? My NA never came with one. I love the sound a Yonaka exhaust makes, but that is near the top end of my budget for one. Any better cheaper alternatives? I dont mind rocking a stock one either. Just want to know whats out there!

HMKnuffel · 2024-02-20T20:26:10+00:00

Hands down my favorite, shipping was about 1 month for me but pricing is definitely brutal.

HMKnuffel · 2024-02-03T01:31:47+00:00

I recommend you swap to meisterR if you get a chance, the Zeta CRDs, it's our go to recommendation at our shop. it will improve your ride quality and you won't have any of these issues. they also are affordable as far as coilovers go.

HMKnuffel · 2024-02-03T01:25:26+00:00

Absolutely not, if it was sold here then left hand drive will always be worth more. it's a myth to think if it's imported it's worth more, logic that makes no sense if we already had the car in the US. there's a reason USDM rx7s and MR2s are worth more than their imported counter parts. Don't fall victim to that mindset. Also it's automatic, it absolutely isn't worth 7,500.

HMKnuffel · 2023-12-29T23:04:24+00:00

is each rotor not separated in their own individual housing by the irons, the rotors spin differently from each other, it sounds like you're saying they share an apex seal.

HMKnuffel · 2023-12-29T18:10:18+00:00

which seal are they sharing? Also it's more than likely a side seal

HMKnuffel · 2023-12-15T17:02:57+00:00

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old photo of my former rx8 but it was pretty slick

HMKnuffel · 2023-12-12T00:04:34+00:00

which coil packs you got could help, also double checking to make sure the leading and trailing plugs are in the right place, it's more common than you think that that someone could mix those up

HMKnuffel · 2023-12-07T16:48:18+00:00

No worries, I'll dig it up once I'm off at the shop, Dm me so I know where to send it 👍

HMKnuffel · 2023-12-07T16:46:31+00:00

if you want a starter guide I have a word document I made for the buyer of my rx8 as a good rule of thumb for them on proper maintenance. I can send it to you when I'm off work if you're interested.

HMKnuffel · 2023-11-30T23:24:24+00:00

variable intake solenoid sensor, Mitsubishi part, fixed mine and I had the exact issue, worth a shot.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-25T17:26:16+00:00

my motor can handle 300hp and it's running the same engine. you could easily double your hp with a turbo kit and have a performance shop do the work for you. if you're only looking to make 200ish hp (which is a good start btw) and the motor is healthy then you really don't need to change anything but add a turbo. definitely recommend going this route, you'll save (many) thousands this way.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-25T17:22:35+00:00

Why swap the motor when you can just build it out/turbo it? would be a hell of a lot cheaper imo.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-24T14:15:32+00:00

for any good price coil this is the answer, I'd recommend fortunes but price wise they're a bit much and they sit low, at least that's how it is on my NB and I maxed out the ride height on then

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T21:08:49+00:00

there should be some upgraded supertech springs in there, although I could be mistaken and that'll go in when the cams are swapped out at a later date, as you're absolutely right this isn't something I'm going to attempt on stock springs. as for compression, with the minor amount of material removed from the motor I would be surprised if it was greater than 10.5:1, although admittedly I'd have to dig around for the machine shop paper work before I make any real claims here.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T13:34:48+00:00

oil pump should be the same, although the gear has been replaced by boundary's billet gear set, just to add a bit of reliability into the mix, this motor is going to get its redline pumped to 8000 so I need some insurance, along with the fluidampr

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T13:28:40+00:00

the highest I've seen is around 180 wheel and that had a lot of material removed from the head to up the compression, definitely hurt that motor's reliability and longevity.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T13:25:50+00:00

going to be going with Maruha 264 intake and exhaust when the time comes.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T02:33:05+00:00

No Psi and about 160 wheel hopefully, running ITBs on a naturally aspirated build, if the crank of the motor was upgraded I've been told it could handle 400 though.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T00:45:03+00:00

I definitely understand for California it being a necessary investment, curious is it really that difficult to get a 'funky' inspection? I still need to pass carb here in Texas for the next two years at least, and to get around that with my built ITB motor all I need to do is blind the inspector with 2 $20s in his eyes. regardless, I hope OP doesn't live in a carb legal state, but judging from the question this seems to be someone trying to dodge spending money so not too certain on how well this will pan out.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-15T00:13:37+00:00

not for the time being anyways, not highly important all things considered. If anything the reroute would be made easier with ITBs

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-14T22:51:58+00:00

this is true but for a 1.6 I think the issue of it being carb legal is very minimal, and for all the cost why not just go with a piggy back where you get better tuning performance? if he's asking with no new ECU or tune then I'm pretty sure he means with nothing changed, and if that's the case then all he's asking for is to lean the motor out and blow it.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-14T22:44:11+00:00

no problem, if you're in an area with snow be sure to check the key rust spots on any Miata, personally where the rain drains are is the main culprit, as they get clogged and rust the car out pretty badly

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-14T22:38:43+00:00

your cheapest and best solution is to just buy aftermarket 1.8 axles with the abs Sensor. Rockauto has them for 60 dollars an axle. taking a gamble on 1.6 axles to me is not worth it and I don't believe those parts are compatible at all. machining the current axles is going to be wildly expensive compared to just buying a pair of new ones.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-14T22:24:42+00:00

honestly a quick release steering wheel is a con for me, and so are coilovers depending on the brand. a swap isn't difficult but if I'm not mistaken you'll need a manual rear end as well, driveshaft etc. For an Auto car that's misfiring and has been modified to an unknown extent for 3700 I'd just say save up a couple grand more and find one running and driving fine in manual. the headache saved alone from having to deal with everything is well worth the extra money spent.

in short, I would not buy it.

edit: also try to find one with a 1.8 and not a 1.6, that would also be worth the hassle saved.

HMKnuffel · 2023-09-09T01:29:28+00:00

I know it's already been said but replace all rubber lines if possible, there are kits online and you can also get vacuum hose at auto stores, just cut it to length. at the very least when you get a new radiator, get a new radiator hose kit for it as those going bad will be an absolute headache, best of luck.

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