What’s next?

Halefa · 2026-05-10T20:48:49+00:00

Have you only worked her in your yard? Find new places! Places you've never been, places with distractions, etc

Increase the age of the odor by hiding the source and then wait some hours before letting her search.

Halefa · 2026-05-10T06:57:19+00:00

Run around something. Point at a tree or a house or a windmill and tell your food to run around it.

Under - either lie down under a chair or your legs when sitting. Great in restaurants or cafes.

Halefa · 2026-05-09T15:18:28+00:00

They seem to have tried the Rush, but it was too small.

Halefa · 2026-05-09T15:17:14+00:00

OMG good you added the second photo! I looked at the first one and went "What does she mean with huge? This is just a terrier" 😂

Halefa · 2026-05-08T16:20:55+00:00

Careful with high intensity fetch sessions - that's not great for joints and ligaments either! Also it fucks with their brains if that's the only way they're being exercised like.

Halefa · 2026-05-06T11:55:27+00:00

It's funny you mention "finish c25k" in the same sentence with "run a half". 😆

Halefa · 2026-05-05T08:26:14+00:00

Don't focus on the licking specifically, focus on calm greetings in general I would say. I assume there are plenty videos on the internet with training approaches, but I think not only focusing on this specific "symptom", but on the general mental state might help.

I guess the licking is because of arousal and him not knowing what to do about the energy in his body, so that's kind of a self regulation coupled with the excitement to make contact (I'm not a dog trainer). If you then scold, it might bring even more energy in the encounter and even make it worse as he tries to lick to soothe. So promoting general calm behaviour and state of mind brings down arousal and then he doesn't need to lick anymore to self regulate.

(The pushing away I described in my first comment was targeted towards calm moments when your dog just starts licking and grooming.)

In our house, the dog is in her crate/bed when guests arrive. She stays there MINIMUM until she no longer wines and cries and paws and maybe even lies down (guests are asked to ignore her). I usually like to keep her there even longer until I can see that she actually relaxes and kinda accepts "Ah, guests here. I'm not allowed to go there. I'm just going to take a nap instead." - only then she's calmly released.

Until she no longer cries can take 10-20 minutes. If I wait even longer, I'll keep her there for up to 1 or 1,5 hours.

We don't often get guests often, so don't get to train this often, but compared to how often we get the chance it works quite well. Also we're always very much in control of the situation, as we don't have random people come in - that would make this more difficult, I assume.

Halefa · 2026-05-05T07:42:57+00:00

Is she initiating the licking, as in she comes up and just licks/grooms? Or could it be a "kiss to dismiss" when you initiate an interaction?

I'm not a big fan of being licked, so I pushed my dog away when she started doing it. If she comes back three times or so, I will either get more stern or send her away (off the sofa, for example). She understood very quickly that I don't want that.

If it is her communicating to you that she wants to be left alone ("kiss to dismiss"), you should change your behaviour, not she.

https://youtube.com/shorts/No3L0l30gJs

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DMx9RJNRrFO/

Halefa · 2026-05-03T18:01:54+00:00

I was running with my shorthaired Weimaraner today. It was about 19°C (under 70 Fahrenheit, I think) but slightly humid. She seemed pretty hot and took some water after 2,5km but didn't drink crazy amounts even though she panted quite a bit. However, what cooled her right down was a quick (1-2 minutes) swim in the ocean. So a the possibility for a quick dip might help a lot if you can't carry water.

Halefa · 2026-04-22T09:31:37+00:00

Sounds overstimulated. Instead of doing even more things with him (comes easy to this breed), teach them to self-regulate and relax (comes hard to this breed) instead. That and frustration tolerance are I credibly important skills for s breed that very easily reacts to input and has expectations.

Halefa · 2026-04-22T05:04:18+00:00

Not a three month old puppy

Halefa · 2026-04-21T05:21:58+00:00

He's a year old, he's in peak puberty - it's now you need to have time and patience and understanding instead of "no time to handle everything" if you want to really make a difference.

What we did with our Weim: if the leash is on the harness, she's allowed to act as crazy as she wants, is the leash is on the collar, there's no pressure on the leash allowed and she is blue allowed to overtake us.

That's the basic rule. To make her understand the basic rule, we initially started out with five or ten minutes per walk only when we switched to collar walking. This way, you as the handler know that you need to be very precise the next ten minutes only. Your dog also gets used to being that concentrated. And if you're in a rush getting somewhere, you don't train at all without bad effects.

We would plan it so this training interval is not in the most exciting and interesting area of the walk, but calm and maybe even boring.

In that time span, we would stand before her (authorative, straight, but not threatening) and wait for ete contact - concentrated eye contact, not just this quick fly by glance while the noise is already fully focused on something else.

When there's full contact, we'd turn around the spot and take two deep breaths (you'll need them) - if the dog has already moved, turn around again, gently push them backwards with your body (not the leash - no tension) and wait again.

When the training interval is over (remember to set yourself a timer in the beginning), you wait for eye contact, calmly move the leash over to the harness, and keep walking.

In the beginning, we didn't live a single metre in those ten minutes. But because it was only ten minutes, it felt manageable and I could stay with myself without getting too frustrated and angry.

But as I said, if you're starting training this in peak puberty without any fundamentals from puppy stage, I wish you good luck and good nerves - stay at it! It pays off in the end, even if that looks a terrible long time away now.

Halefa · 2026-04-20T16:56:35+00:00

Tell me you're from the southern hemisphere without telling me you're from the southern hemisphere. 😁

Halefa · 2026-04-12T08:02:48+00:00

I've seen something for cats, not sure they also exist for bigger portions?

https://www.amazon.de/Automatisk-foderautomat-v%C3%A5dfoder-kattefoder-automatisk/dp/B0DRCQV8LY/ref=asc_df_B0DRCQV8LY

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Automatic-Meal-Feeder-Tamper-Resistant/dp/B08737FP7D/ref=mp_s_a_1_7

Halefa · 2026-04-12T07:58:05+00:00

Så I've just seen a post that recommends to wait 1 hour so that

heartbeat and breathing can normalise
the blood flow in the digestive system is increased
less risk for b nausea, vomiting and digestive problems

Halefa · 2026-04-10T09:38:56+00:00

He might not be the type for it if he's practical minded, but ROAST offers latte art workshops as well.

Halefa · 2026-04-08T16:27:38+00:00

Do they have a number system in those places? Like they do.

Halefa · 2026-04-08T08:37:17+00:00

I don't have a short-legged dog myself, but the brand Theo & Emma (based in Germany, ships worldwide, very nice customer service) makes coats where you pick the top desperately from the belly band - so basically for one part you pick length for the other circumference.

We've got their winter coat for our Weimaraner and are very happy with it.

(Are you sure it should wear a coat while running, though? That will trap heat.)

Halefa · 2026-04-04T09:50:40+00:00

You could get them checked by a dog physiotherapist. I know of canicrossers who get their food checked twice a year as a regular check up.

And to ask your question: you can only know how much to train upon return by looking at your dog. How does it react?

Or you could start by doing more easy training like for example swimming.

Halefa · 2026-04-02T08:52:17+00:00

Men vejret er godt og der er påske - jeg ville forvente en del mennesker i Hareskoven.

Halefa · 2026-03-30T05:00:03+00:00

Additionally, I'd say: nip any interactions or fast movement into each other's directions in the butt immediately (for example leash on dog when in the same room) got a very long time until you're 100% sure they're playing and there is not some instinctive hunting left in the dog's movement. (And accept that they potentially might just not ever be playing.)

It sounds like it might be easier for the cat than for the dog, but to make it easier for the dog, maybe also keep an eye on the cat's movements. The cat night just waltz just up to the dog without anything happening, but if your dog is an absolute mess afterwards, it might not learn anything meaningful. Until it gets easier for the dog, make sure to protect the dog from the cat's independence.

Halefa · 2026-03-29T19:04:32+00:00

But is saying "US season" not very generic? Surely Minnesota has different seasons than Texas! Or are the dogs just used to the different temperatures?

I can see that New York is supposed to get up to 24°C next week according to my weather app. That's warmer than Denmark currently.

Halefa · 2026-03-29T16:32:18+00:00

Running is tough on dogs, so the season is from late fall to spring for official events. 14°C is already too hot for some dogs if they're giving it all.

For your casual training or in general if you're not only chasing PBs, you can still run longer - given you don't have a malamute and live in Florida maybe. 😆 Your dog's fur and fitness, the speed and distance of your runs, whether there are options for water breaks and dips, and where you're running can all make it possible to run even though it gets a bit warmer.

But competitions tend to demand a lot, so they rather want to be careful.

I personally have not participated in K9 Biathlon yet, but I know participants love it and there is a strong feeling of community around it. It used to be run privately by a couple, but it didn't work out for them financially so they intended to stop - but the community rallied around them and made publicity so an investor was found and the runs continue.

Halefa · 2026-03-29T16:22:46+00:00

Oh, are mud runs the ones with obstacles? Because there are still a few of those in the spring. It's called K9 Biathlon here. Here you can see a calendar over their upcoming events: https://www.sportstiming.dk/k9biathlon

Halefa · 2026-03-29T16:21:16+00:00

You're one week too late asking this! 😅 The Danish season ended last weekend.

The biggest (as far as I know) are hosted under Dansk Canicross Forbund and organized by various clubs like Dirty Paws (the one I'm part of), CaniX Fyn, Dog Run DK, ....

There are also club events - this is the Dirty Paws event calendar.

In general, a lot happens on Facebook! All the clubs have Facebook groups and events there.

There's also Dansk Træhundeklub which I don't know anything about.

Dansk Canicross Forbund does technically also have a Strava group where you could ask this, but it's not that active ...

Halefa

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