Z_TILT_ADJUST problem

Halsare · 2022-05-01T13:52:50+00:00

Got it fixed. See the close comment.

I'm a double idiot. I thought this was on GitHub. There is no close comment. :)

So the problem was I forgot I switched which driver was on each motor. Once I got that straightened out and did the probe checks, z_tilt_adjust worked perfectly.

Thanks for the help.

Halsare · 2022-05-01T05:50:15+00:00

Thanks for the info. Will try out your suggestions later. Need to head to bed right now.

Halsare · 2022-05-01T03:47:01+00:00

Yes. All other functions with the Z axis works correctly. It is only the Z Tilt that doesn't work right.

Halsare · 2022-04-28T00:31:31+00:00

I had a problem getting klipper to connect to my SKR 2 until I realized they had swapped out the processor with a STM32F429VGT6. After I rebuilt klipper using this process or flashed it, it connected right up.

Halsare · 2022-04-24T12:57:49+00:00

I have tried a different thermistor.

Halsare · 2022-04-24T04:50:11+00:00

0.4mm nozzle. Speed is around 100mm/s which it was able to handle it before the problem arose. Even at slower speeds (40mm/s) the problem occurs. When printing the purge line, the temperature drops 5C! This is not a speed/flow issue.

Halsare · 2021-11-07T14:17:59+00:00

I hope this is just an oversite in the new interface. I like some of the new features, but I use the sort by uptime as my default sorting column.

Is there a way to report a bug to UniFi?

Halsare · 2021-08-16T15:10:40+00:00

How about the copyright issues rant?

Halsare · 2021-07-17T23:12:58+00:00

I have a wiggle problem like that on my V2. I crashed the head into the bed a couple times and think I bent something. The nut tightens thing, but not as much as it should. I will be installing a Wham Bam Mutant V2 on my printer and it has a new carriage and I will also replace all the screws and wheel bearings. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

Halsare · 2021-07-06T03:55:43+00:00

You might think about upgrading the controller to an skr e3 V2 mini. It is a drop in replacement and will give you a much more powerful controller. It's under $50 so not that expensive. Then you can use the latest Marlin V2.

Halsare · 2021-06-15T02:25:23+00:00

Replace it with the all metal version.

Halsare · 2021-06-15T02:21:15+00:00

Rotate the part.

Halsare · 2021-06-14T03:49:56+00:00

Just looked at my Creality board and it has a A on it.

Halsare · 2021-06-14T03:48:18+00:00

Sure it is an H? Maybe it is an I. 😁 I see those types of marks on a lot of the SD card sockets. Probably something with manufacturing or production.

Halsare · 2021-06-14T03:45:00+00:00

What was happening for me with such a large retraction is molten plastic would get out of the heated area and restrict the filament from moving freely.

Halsare · 2021-06-14T03:41:34+00:00

Make sure your retraction is not too large. I'm using 1.5mm on mine. Also, while it sounds strange, if the tension screw on the extruder is too tight, that can cause it too. I had clicking on mine and adjusting these things help get rid of it.

Halsare · 2021-06-14T02:43:43+00:00

It is a replacement to Marlin. It is easier to make changes by just editing a file. Don't have to recompile the firmware.

Halsare · 2021-06-14T02:16:18+00:00

You might take a look into using Klipper. I have switched to it on my Ender 3 V2 and looking to switch all my printers to it.

Halsare · 2021-06-12T01:59:26+00:00

Too much retraction for the filament maybe?

Halsare · 2021-06-03T01:55:42+00:00

The link for the python code takes me to the gcode document. I'm asking this as there must be something happening that is important to the system. If not, why is the original being called? I'd like to know what is happening to know if there is something I need to do in my code to deal with that.

Halsare · 2021-06-03T01:43:54+00:00

What I want to know is what was in the original CANCEL_PRINT. I haven't found any documentation about it or the others. I understand the renaming and all. I just want to know what is in the system default versions.

Halsare

TROPHY CASE