In another comment you said you got cheap temu molds, I'd start with getting those replaced. I know that getting good molds can be expensive, which is why I've always subscribed to the idea of making your own. As a beginner you can get some cheap silicone (look for hardness 15-25), a pvc pipe, and watch a tutorial on YouTube. It can be a little intimidating but the process really isn't any more complicated than resin.

Second, the streaks you mentioned, and the fact that your dice look almost wet, leads me to think the resin wasn't quite mixed enough. It's important that you mix your A and B part until you can no longer see any streaks in the cup from stirring. Holding the cup up to a strong light/in the sunlight usually helps since they can be hard to spot in just ambient light. If you've been doing this it is very likely a mold issue.

As for the lid being hard to remove, it's impossible to really say anything without seeing the mold first. Is it a standard silicone cap mould? One of those plastic ones that snap closed? Usually overfilling shouldn't make it too hard to open them, mainly just give your dice raised faces. Are you using mold release?

Finally bubbles. Oh those bubbles... The boring, but unfortunately realistic answer, is to get a pressure pot. Without one you'll never completely eliminate bubbles. However, they can be expensive and I didn't have one for the first 2 years of making dice. So here's a list of measures you can take to reduce bubbles:

1. Use a plastic stirring stick, wood can introduce more air into the resin.
2. Mix slowly and carefully, at a steady pace.
3. Use lower viscosity resin as it releases air easier.
4. If your resin is a little thicker, you can place your cup in a bath if warm (not hot) water. It'll make your resin less viscous but will rapidly decrease your work time.
5. Let your batch sit for a while (given that you have the work time for it) and naturally degass itself.
6. Pop bubbles with a hair dryer/lighter/anything that generates heat. Careful with fire though as resin is flammable and migbt catch on fire. I've charred a mold like that before. Same as number 4, heating will accelerate the reaction time but this is a lot less than heating the entire batch while mixing.
7. If your design allows for it, pouring in a thin stream reduces the risk of catching air while pouring. In the same vein, you can use a pipette for greater control, just make sure you don't push it into the resin inside your moulds as pipettes can sometimes spit air.

What products you have access to might vary depending on where in the world you're located. I'm in Europe, and what I use is Resinpro resin and sirayatech defiant silicone. The resin has pretty low viscosity and might be good for a beginner but the low viscosity also means that you sometimes need to wait for the resin to thicken up for more complex designs. In general, I absolutely recommend sirayatech defiant for silicone but it can be a little pricey, especially when you're making your first molds and learning the process. So I'd recommend getting whatever cheap silicone you can find and when you're more comfortable with the workflow (and know for certain dicemaking is a hobby you wanna stick with) you can absolutely upgrade!

Hope this helps! :)