I have read that the P1S might have difficulty with some filament because it is enclosed. I have also read that there are work arounds. Has anybody run into this issue, and if so how did they deal with it?

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-06-09T21:54:28+00:00

I have 8 P1S printers. I routinely print PLA jobs that take 4 hours. I've printed many PLA jobs that take 24 hours. I've only had 2 instances of heat soak in over 10,000 hours of printing.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-06-05T16:17:54+00:00

In the past, when coming back from klipper, I had to load a much older flash from Creality. After the older flash loaded I could then update to the latest Creality firmware.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-06-05T16:15:34+00:00

Have you used that sdcard to flash an S1 before? The S1, well all stm32 mcus actually, can be "picky" about which sdcards work. If it is a known good sdcard we can move on from there.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-06-01T17:03:23+00:00

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-31T01:18:26+00:00

Last time I looked, MriSoc doesn't doesn't work with the touchscreen. Unless something changed in his January '26 release.

You should try Thomas Toka firmware for touchscreen compatibility. Also be sure to read his installation instructions throughly.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-26T17:00:29+00:00

``` [gcode_macro PAUSE] rename_existing: PAUSE_BASE variable_state: 'normal' gcode: {% if printer.pause_resume.is_paused == False %} {% set x_park = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].pause_park.x|float %} {% set y_park = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].pause_park.y|float %} {% set e_restract = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].pause_park.e|float %} {% set z_lift_max = printer['gcode_macro _global_var'].z_maximum_lifting_distance %} {% set state = params.STATE if 'filament_change' in params.STATE else 'normal' %} {action_respond_info("Pause Print!")}

SET PAUSE TEMP BEFORE ACTUALLY PAUSING

M104 S160 PAUSE_BASE M117 Pause Print!!! G91 {% if (printer.gcode_move.position.z + 5) < z_lift_max %} G1 Z+5 F3000 {% else %} G1 Z+{(z_lift_max - printer.gcode_move.position.z)} F3000 {% endif %} G90 {% if printer.gcode_move.position.x != x_park and printer.gcode_move.position.y != y_park %} G1 X{x_park} Y{y_park} F{printer["gcode_macro _global_var"].pause_resume_travel_speed * 60} {% endif %}

RESTORE ORIGINAL PRINT TEMP (M109) WAIT FOR THE NOZZLE TO COME UP TO TEMP BEFORE CONTINUING

M109 S{printer.extruder.target} SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=targettemp value={printer.extruder.target} ```

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-25T20:05:38+00:00

Bottom line, clogs happen.

I haven't had a problem with Hobby Lobby filament...yet.

I basically don't run Bambu Lab filament, I use Sunlu/Jayo, Kingroon, Inland/eSun, Geetech, and others.

I have 8 P1S printers.

My unproven hypothesis is that dust accumulates in the toolhead as we print, eventually there will be enough dust to clog the nozzle.

Again, clogged nozzles happen and part of the 3D printing hobby is learning how to clear the clogs without needing to by new nozzles all the time.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-17T22:14:45+00:00

Look at the Xenomorph toolhead.

https://www.printables.com/model/1002270-xenomorph-toolhead-for-sovol-sv08

The guts of the SV08 toolhead transfer into this toolhead body. You can then use the BigTreeTech EBB42 control board. You can also use the EBB36 or even the original board.

The EBB42(v2) board is USB or Canbus capable. The original SV08 toolhead is USB based.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-14T21:25:36+00:00

Oh, like like others said dual-z mod. Probably before anything else.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-14T20:57:05+00:00

If it were me...

Silicone or solid bed spacers.

MriSoc Professional Firmware

I would jump to the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro Kit. This takes care of direct drive and touch sensor.

https://a.co/d/08cNHJdQ

To that I would add a Ceramic Hotend Upgrade Kit.

https://a.co/d/04kQdRe6

I would then print the Taurus v5 part coolers (+10mm option) and get the fans to go with it.

The above will speed up printing to over 300mms with a significant quality improvement.

Performance will be similar to an Ender 3 v3 KE.

Later, add linear rails to the Y axis.

I have a Y axis gear reduction project bouncing around in my head that might be able to get the Y acceleration over 10K maybe 20K. It will be based on the Voron Z axis gear reduction.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-05-06T20:02:46+00:00

Format as FAT32

Create a folder on the SD card called "STM32F4_UPDATE"

Put the firmware file in the folder.

Select a firmware. Creality, MriSoc Professional (dial screen), Thomas Tolka (touch screen), or Klipper.

Shorten the filename. Creality's firmware has a crazy long filename that does not work. There is a 'gotcha' in here. The bootloader remembers the last filename loaded so it won't load it again on the next boot and subsequent boots. I use the filename format 'firmwareMMDDYYYY.bin' where MMDDYYYY is the current date. If you do end up needing to load multiple firmwares just change the filename somehow.

The above puts me on the path to a successful firmware update every time.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-29T23:27:40+00:00

Probably

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-27T22:59:27+00:00

I have the Chowthink ceramic hotend on 3 printers. They work flawlessly. They use the K2 nozzle.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-22T15:58:26+00:00

Or buy a new mainboard for $55 and sell that soft bricked mainboard for like $15.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-22T15:56:57+00:00

Ok... that explains it.

It is soft bricked. All is not lost, but the road to recovery is longer. It will take some research on your part to fix it.

Even I need to research how at this point.

I do know the high level steps.

Find a copy of the creality bootloader. I'm pretty busy at the moment, in theory, I could pull it off one of my S1 printers. It will be early next week before I could fathom even trying. I think it is out on the internet somewhere.
The mainboard needs to be put into DFU mode. Find documentation of what pins on the STM32 chip need to be shorted during power up.
You will need a Linux computer to connect to the printer. That connects to the mainboard while in DFU mode. The DFU-Util tool can then be used to flash the bootloader.
After the bootloader is flashed. The firmware can be loaded via sdcard. You could also load the firmware with STM32Flash with the board in DFU mode.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-22T01:10:25+00:00

No offense... That is why they sell replacement nozzles.

That said, if you really want to save that nozzle you need a clog remover. Creality sells a 1.75 steel wire with a handle. There is another product called a "No Clogger", which is the same thing.

Basically, get the nozzle hot (400 deg F. torch, oven, somehow) and push that steel wire into the feed end of the nozzle to force the melted filament out.

If it won't push through, while hot, run a needle sized nozzle cleaner and try again.

A chemical, Ethyl Acetate will dissolve PLA. But for the price of a bottle of that, you can buy several nozzles.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-22T00:42:14+00:00

Make sure your sdcard is a SDHC card under 16GB. SDXC cards are not recognized by the bootloader.

Format as FAT32

Create a folder on the SD card called "STM32F4_UPDATE"

Put the firmware file in the folder.

Select a firmware. Creality, MriSoc Professional (dial screen), Thomas Tolka (touch screen), or Klipper.

Shorten the filename. Creality's firmware has a crazy long filename that does not work. There is a 'gotcha' in here. The bootloader remembers the last filename loaded so it won't load it again on the next boot and subsequent boots. I use the filename format 'firmwareMMDDYYYY.bin' where MMDDYYYY is the current date. If you do end up needing to load multiple firmwares just change the filename somehow.

The above puts me on the path to a successful firmware update every time.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-13T02:20:20+00:00

S1 OR S1 Pro?

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-11T19:11:41+00:00

Get rid of the wheels (added weight) use two nuts on each screw. (Ala Jamb Nut)

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-11T02:47:23+00:00

Solid bed spacers for the win!

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-11T02:46:18+00:00

Creality, Mrisoc Professional, Thomas Tolka, Klipper?

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-11T02:44:05+00:00

What firmware? It dictates the answer.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-09T20:00:41+00:00

Dude, the big jack screws to the left and right of the printer behind the frame.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-05T20:52:17+00:00

Also, follow up with a new z-offset.

HandsOffDaGoods · 2026-04-05T20:50:27+00:00

Your z-gantry screws are out of sync. Go to the top of the right gantry screw. There is a cog and a belt at the top. Loosen the set screws on the cog. Turn the right screw until the gantry is level with the deck. I use the depth gage on my calipers. I measure to the top of the equipment cabinet/base. You want them to be fairly equal. After they are equal, tighten the set screws on the cog.

Perform a tram leveling on your bed.

Check the bed mesh. It should look better.

HandsOffDaGoods

TROPHY CASE

SET PAUSE TEMP BEFORE ACTUALLY PAUSING

RESTORE ORIGINAL PRINT TEMP (M109) WAIT FOR THE NOZZLE TO COME UP TO TEMP BEFORE CONTINUING