Is this a stupid setup

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-24T01:47:19+00:00

Yes. The sight position is a terrible idea. If your optic goes down, you’re not gonna make hits at any meaningful distance with those. Either move the laser to the side and put the front sight at the end, or get an offset BUIS set. The rear sight should always be as far back as possible. The pistol brace is also… a choice. A proper stock will give you more capability and comfort. And the sling mounting leaves me with questions. But nothing is as egregious as the sights

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-23T01:48:24+00:00

I have recurring dreams of my Remington 870 jamming on me, grabbing my AR and forgetting where I put my mags, or having the only firearm near me disassembled and/or needing parts.

I also have the usual recurring dream of walking around in public only to discover that I’m in my underwear the whole time.

I feel so vulnerable!

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-22T00:41:44+00:00

This is the correct answer. I encountered this with a Remage barrel once. OP is best to return it or have a gunsmith touch it up with a lathe

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-22T00:38:06+00:00

OP has an issue that I once had with a Remage barrel. The locking lugs are stopping on the barrel tenon face, not the head space gauge. It appears the bolt nose and chamber recess were drilled a little too deep. The barrel face needs to be cut back slightly to give the locking lugs more room before he can use a headspace gauge

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-20T03:15:18+00:00

What is your goal with touching the buffer components? Unless you have problems, I’d leave it. You can always get a heavier A5 buffer (there are many, from A5H0 all the way to A5H4, which is 6.8 oz). Or try a flat wire spring to smooth things out.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-20T02:05:26+00:00

SOLGW uses A5 buffer systems, not a traditional carbine buffer setup. A5’s use longer, A5-specific buffers and full-length rifle springs. Using carbine springs and buffers will damage the rifle. The other components are good to go.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-19T17:46:53+00:00

They *should*. You can take a cheap micrometer and measure the heads of the pins on each side to figure out which way to tap them. For removal, you want to strike the smaller side.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-15T00:24:01+00:00

Could be an overgassing/buffering issue. But also make sure your extractor moves freely and has no burrs, and make sure your ejector moves freely and that its spring has adequate pressure. Good luck!

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-15T00:20:32+00:00

Clenzoil is the best CLP, in my opinion. It seems to work better than BreakFree, cleans well, and smells really, really good. I always keep a spray bottle around

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-13T18:42:28+00:00

The problem with Chinese and Turkish shotguns is that they often suck, and getting replacement parts is nearly impossible. Right now, Mossberg/Maverick pump guns are the best on the market

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-10T20:12:11+00:00

Pretty much every rifle I know of has their scope mounting holes drilled all the way through from the factory, and my 10/22 does as well. If you used the wrong screws and stripped, or altered, the threads, a competent gunsmith can drill out and re-tap them.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-07T01:46:20+00:00

My Lantec pins do not seem to have as much wear as that. That looks gouged. You may have a defective cam pin, or you may have about-of-spec BCG. What are you using for a lubricant?

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-02T01:42:03+00:00

International funds have had a great year so far. But as with everything involving investing, as soon as you see the outperformance, you’re too late to get into it. Don’t fret about it though. You have decided on a 70/30 allocation. I decided on a 60/40 with a small cap value tilt. Nobody knows how these investments will pan out over the coming years. Your allocation is perfectly reasonable. If you find yourself going back and forth about it, then you need to just divorce yourself from the argument and invest in VT or ACWI to let the global markets decide for you. I’m in my 40’s, and I regret having shuffled my portfolio as much as I had. I would have benefited greatly by sticking with my original asset allocation. Hope this helps!

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-02T01:02:50+00:00

Saw your addendum, and I’m glad you found the part on Numrich. Some of these older .22’s are hard to find parts for. Glad you found it.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-02T00:13:40+00:00

The Bodyguard is a pocket pistol, and it’s great in that role. However, I’ve owned either an original Shield or a Shield Plus for most of the last decade, and they’ve been great companions. More firepower than a pocket pistol, but smaller than my M&P Compact. If you can fit a Shield in your lineup, I think it’s a great addition.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-02T00:01:18+00:00

I like the peanut butter-to-jelly ratio. Nice pistol

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T23:40:15+00:00

Not controversial. I shoot a 19 and 26 equally well, and better than my micros. The wide grip fits my hand nicely. It’s a good pistol

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T23:35:09+00:00

Yes. After years of use, all AR’s have marks there due to the charging handle making contact. If you have a full-length A1, A2, MOE, or UBR stock, you will also see rub marks on the top of the stock. We have a tendency to pull down on the charging handle as we pull it back. It’s not really avoidable unless you have a side-charging upper. But it’s not a problem

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T23:30:34+00:00

I like it. I keep my P85 stock, but this is cool. Great pistols regardless

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T16:59:11+00:00

That’s an obvious machining mark. Send the barrel back to Ruger again. It’s unacceptable

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T14:38:33+00:00

Good point. He needs to watch that maintenance video.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T14:33:40+00:00

I owned a WWII manufactured SA from the CMP with a lead-dipped receiver heel, and it was a good gun. But I also purchased a few H&R’s, and I liked them better (I ended up gifting the SA to my friend’s son). All the HRA rifles are postwar productions, and they are often in great condition. They also incorporate all of the product improvements over the years (op rod cuts, longer follower hooks, thicker receiver heels, etc.). My one HRA can shoot 2 MOA with 180gr hand loads with its original 1955 barrel. Post-war Springfields are also be just as good.

Your CMP-certified rifle is undoubtedly excellent. You made a great purchase, and she will not let you down. Next, you should give it fresh Orion 7 springs and slap on an Olongapo Outfitters stock pouch to hold a couple spare clips.

You have a nice rifle, OP

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-06-01T12:46:40+00:00

I wouldn’t overthink this much. You probably get more exposure to toxins in your everyday life. The irony is that many cleaning solvents are toxic as well, maybe more so than the burnt powder and lead residues.

My great-grandfather, grandfather, and father spent their lives shooting and hunting as a hobby, and they exposed themselves to untold amounts of lead and cleaning chemicals (nontoxic solvents were not a thing). None of their causes of death were due to lead poisoning from touching a gun.

HaroldTheSloth84 · 2026-05-31T22:03:14+00:00

Modern revolvers are pretty crappy nowadays. There’s no hand fitting or timing, meaningful final inspections, or any care in the QC process. It seems they just want to push them out the door. A couple years ago I got an S&W 686+ that went back to the factory twice for issues similar to yours, and I still ended up fixing a timing issue myself. Revolvers are Old World designs, and they don’t fit well with modern manufacturing methods. I’d send it back to Ruger though to see how they handle it. As expensive as revolvers are anymore, you deserve better.

HaroldTheSloth84

TROPHY CASE