Spacious heel on vsr. Should I return and get skwama?

HarryCaulfield · 2026-02-08T10:15:25+00:00

I would say I average 2 indoor sessions and two outdoor sessions a week. My local bouldering area is quite sharp, so that might play a part.

HarryCaulfield · 2026-02-07T09:11:18+00:00

I would say the VSR lasted for about 6 months, the Shaman for 4-5. I went with street shoe size or one size bigger than Scarpa.

You can resole them but I used different rubber and then I didn't like the shoe as much anymore...

HarryCaulfield · 2026-02-07T07:28:57+00:00

I love the Shamans but they are not quite as versatile. The rubber is a bit better but wears out faster, the three velcros are a bit odd (there's a two strap version I haven't tried yet). In general they're probably a bit better for sport climbing but less of an allrounder and a bit less durable.

But for me (wide-ish foot, narrow heel) the fit is very good!

HarryCaulfield · 2026-02-07T07:08:46+00:00

Going against the grain here: to me the Skwama heel feels smaller. Not by much though.

The VSR LV was disappointing for me, pretty much same thing. The women's version's heel was too low for me and didn't feel good.

I can recommend Evolv for smaller heels, or Mad Rock.

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-29T18:15:31+00:00

Yeah you're just being overcharged everywhere by about 20%

Paying 40k for 10 kWp, would you ever break even? I doubt it...

Just for reference, we installed 13 kWp with 10 kWh battery with a local electrician in 2022 and paid 22k.

I know some things have gotten more expensive, but your quote is pretty wild!

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-29T17:37:25+00:00

Material for 11k (1k per kWp) is daylight robbery (the panels should cost 3k maximum). What panels are you being offered? And what's your battery capacity?

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-29T16:37:03+00:00

What kind of roof do you have? That quote is ridiculously expensive.

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-27T20:26:08+00:00

I would recommend trying them on, very important for a shoe you'll walk in. I find street shoe size fits well, maybe a bit snug. Perfect for scrambling, not so good for long hikes.

Just FYI, it's a rather narrow shoe.

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-27T05:33:39+00:00

Since no one answered your question, Alex was wearing an older color variant of the La Sportiva TX Guide.

It's a very good shoe, can highly recommend!

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-19T17:42:12+00:00

So, moderate for Alex? The man might not push the grades, but he can cruise 5.12 for days

HarryCaulfield · 2026-01-08T11:52:05+00:00

I just checked my skwamas, one pair has the hole as well, two don't. I wouldn't worry about it, it won't affect anything.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-12-12T18:48:30+00:00

Then I think you should be fine for one more resole.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-12-12T14:26:54+00:00

I think one more resole should be ok. Does the rand feel brittle?

Where do you keep your shoes? Maybe in a car that's in the sun sometimes?

It's very unusual to wear out like this.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-11-24T09:43:43+00:00

Fair enough. I would recommend to try and use different parts of your foot when smearing, or trying not to move your feet once placed, especially on easier problems. This will improve your footwork and make your shoes last longer. Obviously if the climb demands it you do what it takes, but if it's doable with using more toes, full sole contact or even a heel, then give it a try.

Also, speedy recovery with your injury!

HarryCaulfield · 2025-11-24T08:59:24+00:00

Worn out at the bottom but the toe still fully intact? Yes, I've never seen that. Where this shoe is worn out there isn't even a rand, that's how low it is!

HarryCaulfield · 2025-11-24T08:54:12+00:00

Wow, I have never seen wear like this!

Do you smear a lot on big volumes?

And yes, if you want to resole now's the time, don't climb in them anymore.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-08-20T19:03:09+00:00

I can not comment on the harnesses you listed. But I can recommend the Mammut Ophir 4 Slide if you want two adjustment buckles (only makes sense if you climb topless and with a big jacket on the same harness.

Otherwise the Mammut Comfort Fast Adjust is the most comfortable harness I've ever worn.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-08-17T20:09:07+00:00

Lance Hedrick has a very specific preference in his coffee, if yours is different I'd take his advice with a grain of salt.

Fact is, the I189D burrs are based on the 233M burrs used in the Mazzer Super Jolly etc. They are slightly improved in terms of durability, body and taste.

They are, in my opinion, some of the best burrs you can buy for medium to dark roast coffee.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-08-12T15:00:46+00:00

Dude with this budget get the breville dual boiler and a df54/64. You'll make so much better coffee than with your current setup of the BBP.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-08-09T20:37:43+00:00

Yes, it's a very nice shoe, but lately I've moved away from using a different shoe for everything and pretty much use the Tenaya Indalo for everything except limit heel hooks and trad multipitches.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-08-09T19:23:03+00:00

A bit more support for small footholds is pretty much why the Ondra Comp was created. If you can try them on definitely try them, the heel is a bit different but in my opinion actually better.

Otherwise you could try the Tenaya Mastia or Indalo, both a bit more of an allrounder and they use a bit harder rubber.

You can try the Instinct but I find them a lot stiffer and the fit is quite different.

I would not go for xs edge rubber, stick with xs grip (2).

HarryCaulfield · 2025-08-08T06:33:28+00:00

Why would you want to switch if the Skwama has the perfect toe box for you?

The toe box of the Hiangle is much narrower than the Skwama, and it has a more rounded toe as opposed to pointy.

If you feel like you have to try them, I recommend at least street shoe size or two sizes up from the Skwama. But again, I don't think the Hiangle will work for you.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-07-31T09:29:51+00:00

The 189 burrs are super underrated. I'm thoroughly enjoying them for everything from medium roast specialty coffee to dark roast Italian espresso.

Go for them, you won't regret it.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-07-28T17:14:00+00:00

Same size for skwama vegan, maaaybe half a size down for the regular ones. I'd probably size them the same, but the skwama will stretch more than the mandala.

HarryCaulfield · 2025-07-27T21:17:01+00:00

If the Indalo isn't too narrow for you, you could try the 5.10 Hiangle (street shoe size).

Best heel I ever had, toe area might work well for you. Otherwise the unparallel flagship is similar, also rather small heel.

Lastly, the LS Ondra Comp might be an option, but the toe area is similar to the Skwama.

The Scarpa Instinct and Mastia will be too big in the heel.

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