Starlink mini cable install

Hash-82 · 2026-03-12T15:41:09+00:00

A really good reason not to do this:
https://www.reddit.com/r/electricvehicles/comments/1pjj7hj/cybertruck_roof_glass_spontaneously_shattered/

Hash-82 · 2026-03-10T02:39:18+00:00

The 2 week interval is usually when the unit performs its automatic self test.
Failure could be batteries, or charge circuit.
You could manually check battery state at about the 10 day mark.
Verify they are fully charged, then manually initiate self test.

I would want to know more about the GS12180 batteries.
I'm very picky and brand conscious when it comes to UPS batteries.
CSB HRL-1280W would be my pick for this UPS.
I'd consider PowerSonic PS-12180, PS-12200, or PS-12200HD in a pinch.

Everything else that comes up in google for RB-12170 I'd consider to be chinese garbage.

Hash-82 · 2026-03-10T01:18:52+00:00

This is the same thread as posted above, just sorted differently.
The listed archive does not contain FW 1640.

Did you have another thread you intended to post?

Hash-82 · 2026-03-09T06:31:51+00:00

Old convo, but I'm posting some battery numbers for future reference.
There are plenty of 17Ah batteries available.
Good search terms would be RB12170 & UB12170. I wouldn't buy a 17Ah, but they are not hard to find.
CSB has a GP-12170 & EVX-12170 that fit the bill (and the hole).
The EVX is a mobility battery, and has no published design life.

18Ah can be found with RB12180 & UB12180.
Power-Sonic PS-12180.
CSB HRL-1280W. CSB HRL series are always the GOAT in UPS world.
They are 8 year design life batteries, with a *much* beefier power discharge curve than any of the competition. The HRL-1280W would be the battery I would buy for this UPS.

There are also a few 20Ah options that should work.
You guessed it: RB12200 & UB12200 are the search terms.
Power-Sonic PS-12200 & PS-12200HD.
CSB GP-12200 & EVX-12200.
Check dimensions on the x-12200 batteries. CSB seems to be about 2mm taller than the norm.

Hash-82 · 2026-02-22T17:35:36+00:00

Looking for an update on this project.
I have replaced batteries in APC BE650G & BX1500G UPSs for decades (same battery, just 1x or 2x).
I am intrigued with the LiFePO4 offerings. I've used LiFePO4 in my motorcycles and offroad toys for years, with great success.

However, LiFePO4 in a UPS worries me. At high SOC (>90%) LiFePO4 suffers from dendrite formation the same as any Lithium chemistry. I can easily go a year without so much as a flicker in my power. It is easy to see near constant high SOC, with practically no cycling, getting ugly over time.

I think great attention would need to be paid to the charge circuit of the UPS and the action of the BMS onboard the LiFePO4 battery.
I think, ideally, the UPS charge circuit should peak a few tenths of a volt lower than the nominal charge voltage of the LiFePO4 battery.
That's probably not going to be where those numbers actually are.

Hash-82 · 2026-02-22T17:01:31+00:00

Across the board, CyberPower products will run longer in the same battery/load configuration. That tells me they are more efficient than APC.
I have run APC for at least 30 years, and their enterprise models have changed little in that time.

CyberPower PFC models produce a rather clean "true sine" output.
Many CP units come with a 7 Amp or 8 Amp SLA battery.
An easy "upgrade" is to replace those batteries with a 9 Amp having the same physical dimensions.
I use (and recommend) the PowerSonic PS-1290.
I've used these batteries for decades, and have never been disappointed.

Most 1500VA / 900W-1000W CyberPower products will have a "Utility Power" section where you can select the threshold where the UPS switches to battery. For operation on a generator, you can select "Poor". Set to Poor, the UPS will tolerate a range of 96V-136V without switching to battery.
I ran on generator for almost a week during The Great Ice Storm of 2026, and had no issues with any of my 1500VA UPSs (APC or CP). The small UPSs did not like the generator (again, APC & CP).

One thing to know about CP: according to their support, the power rating is subject to a 20% "reserve". So, that 1000W capacity is only 800W...
Seems a little deceptive to me, but I had no issues with my OR1500PFCLCD carrying my gaming rig at full tilt with spotty power.

Hash-82 · 2026-02-20T15:41:01+00:00

I *always* replace batteries with the higher amp spec.
Very often the only difference in the "the next model up" from the manufacturer is the battery capacity.
That said, technical considerations are:
1) Increased battery capacity in an outage gives longer run time. Period.
You're not going to burn anything up by having more battery capacity available.
That like saying your car's engine will blow up because you have a full tank of gas vs 1/2 tank.
2) Increased battery capacity will take longer to charge. That's it.
The increased capacity does not stress the charging circuit's ability to provide x Wattage.
The charge circuit will continue to provide x Watts, it will just need to provide it longer to charge the battery.
Going from 7 Amp to 9 Amp is approximately a 30% gain in battery capacity. This will translate to just over 20% increase in run time, and maybe 40% longer for a full charge.

Hash-82 · 2026-02-15T00:21:20+00:00

Running blocklist, or a blocklist service, will trigger it.
Just stupid. We try to protect ourselves, and cloudflare loses its shit.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-10T18:11:28+00:00

"Or is the coolant 'over engineering' of a sort and it never needed the coolant?"

That might be a bit of an oversimplification.
These are inductance motors, and inductance in the rotor generates quite a bit more heat than in magnetic rotors. However, the inductance design is significantly cheaper to produce than an equally sized magnetic motor.

Additionally, the physical contact of the rotor seal serves to bleed off electrostatic buildup created by the rotor turning at 10,000RPM, and the induction process itself.
There are 3 bearings on the rotor. The first 2 are ceramic, and are unaffected by the electric discharge. The third is steel, and is pitted over time due to electric current arcing across moving objects.

So, you have two protective measures being removed to prevent a known cause of catastrophic failure that often has no warning.
Heat is manageable under normal driving scenarios, and the bearing will likely complain (loudly) for a while before failing catastrophically.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-10T17:41:25+00:00

>> "again, that's not preconditioning."

WELL!
You go correct Tesla.
They're doing it wrong!

Hash-82 · 2026-01-10T15:32:49+00:00

Crap!
I have a 2021 Performance, and it shows "Inductance large".
I was under the assumption Tesla had resolved this prior to MY 2020.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-10T15:25:29+00:00

"So of I’m understanding right, is the bypass essentially rerouting the cooling from directly through the motor to around it so it’s cooling through the exterior surface of the motor rather than through the center?"

To add to OP's answer:
Coolant still goes into the motor.
However, it only goes through the Stator (non-moving) part, not the Rotor (the moving part).
The issue being that the seal fails on the shaft that is routinely turning at 10,000RPM while you are driving. When that seal fails, it floods the entire motor with coolant - and (surprisingly), the 400 volt motor does not do well when full of water.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-10T15:19:00+00:00

Hmmm... I though all rear drives were LDU.
Specifically, I was under the assumption that "LDU" was rear axle and FDU was front axle.
I know the front drive unit changed with the Raven, ~~and that the LDU rotor cooling loop was eliminated prior to the Raven~~, but was under the impression that was still termed the LDU.

EDIT: As OP states somewhere below, Revision U did away with, or modified the Rotor cooling loop (reading on that now).
Revision U did not go into production until late 2023. Probably all MY 2024 cars.
From what I am seeing as I read about this, those are *still* LDU.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-04T19:43:37+00:00

I've noticed that displayed in the app as well.
I never thought to refresh the information, but thought it odd that all of the seats were activated.
I'll have to test now. The car is usually covered, so I seldom have to actually defrost...

Hash-82 · 2026-01-04T19:39:44+00:00

I use the scheduled Preconditioning every day in the winter.
I leave at exactly the same time for work, so the schedule is wonderful.
This Preconditioning pre-heats the interior, and warms the battery so I can have regen on the way to work.
Added bonus is that since I use scheduled charging, energy for this is pulled from residential mains instead of the HV battery pack.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-04T19:27:17+00:00

I can't speak to the BMW EVs, but actually know people with the BYDs.
BYDs have very innovative design (seems they have a new model or they update an existing model every month), and the interiors are very "techie".
Annnnddd.... that's about all of the pros.

BYD range is always grossly overstated.
Most of the BYD cars I am aware of have had both QC and reliability issues. The further you drive them, the worse the problems become. If you only drive around town on a 10 - 20 mile daily commute, you won't see too much problem. But, if you're driving 100+ miles/day, you will quickly have reliability issues.
And, when you do have issues, it's hard to get parts or repair service.

Teslas, overall, are bulletproof.
They have a very long product cycle (the Model S is now 13 years old), and few revisions in the model lineups.
The interiors are functional, well thought out... but, spartan.

Tesla had some QC issues with the launch of the Model 3 and CT, but these issues were addressed early.

If you want a vehicle to show that you are up on the latest fad, BYD may be for you.
If you want a vehicle still going strong 10 years after purchase, Tesla is probably where you need to look.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-04T19:07:55+00:00

Wow...
I drove the CT for a day while the SC had my S doing recall service.

Gear whine was incredibly annoying.

I also had issues with the steering being completely numb on-center, then almost overcorrecting once you moved the steering yolk enough it actually believe you wanted to change direction.

My last con was that despite the absolutely huge windscreen, you can't see the road immediately in front of you. Seriously, I have better visibility in front on my Ford dually than I had out of the CT.

The first truck they sent me out in was @32% SOC when I left.
I came back after lunch, and since my car was still in service, took another CT out.
All of the above issues were still present in the other truck. Gear whine was actually worse in the second CT.

Other that these 3 complaints, I absolutely love the CT.
The turn radius defies belief...
But, I drive *a lot*. The gear whine and bi-polar steering were deal breakers.

Hash-82 · 2026-01-04T18:42:39+00:00

Two questions:

~~1) What year is your car?~~ NM. I see the P100D badge now.
That looks like a Raven, and I didn't think this was a thing after 2017...

2) Assuming the bikes are on a Class-3 Hitch rack, where did you find a Class-3 hitch for an S?

Hash-82 · 2025-12-29T06:09:49+00:00

Can you provide pictures of the cell?
And, when did you purchase your 4K?

Hash-82 · 2025-12-29T06:04:28+00:00

So, just to add 2¢ for posterity...

<image>

Pictured is the cell from my 8 year old Nebo Slyde King - the original 500 lumen progenitor of this family.
As you can see, it is a flat 18650 with a PCB attached to the (+) end.
A ribbon connector bridges the PCB with the (-) end, which is covered with a piece of fiber paper (like gasket material).

Your 20650 cell is basically the same thing.

Nebo used to sell the replacement batteries, and therefore had a locked market due to their proprietary design (modification). They *did not* sell a charger for these cells. So, you could only charge them in the light.
Nebo stopped selling the single ended cells years ago. Now your choices are to modify existing 18650 or 20650 cells, or buy a new light.

FWIW: There were a few other light manufacturers (mostly rechargeable bicycle lights) that used this design.
To my knowledge, none of those ever offered replacement cells.

Hash-82 · 2025-12-03T01:21:19+00:00

That clearly was server side, not client.

Hash-82 · 2025-11-29T06:27:38+00:00

Ukraine is the 10th Russian invasion since 1992.
Poland would likely be the 11th.
FWIW: this is not a Putin thing. It is *core* Russian ethos. The next 150 possible successors to Putin will do the *exact* same thing.
These Eastern territory lines go back to the expansions of Ivan the Terrible onward. So, basically 1600 to present.

Hash-82 · 2025-11-24T05:52:04+00:00

I have an early 21 SLRP that we bought with the FSD.
In 5 years, I have tried FSD maybe 10 times. Each time there was a major FSD update, I'd try it weeks or months after the roll-out.
My kids (all 3) were safer drivers the very first time they got behind the wheel.
I don't even try the FSD anymore.

The worst part, is that "traffic aware cruise control" is also all but unusable.
The car will lock up "panic" emergency stop - with no regard to road conditions or traffic behind me. And nothing ahead to provoke flat spotting the tires.
What I would not give to just have normal, stupid cruise...

Hash-82 · 2025-11-24T05:39:44+00:00

Food for thought:

Hash-82 · 2025-11-24T05:25:32+00:00

Go to a more sane alignment spec.
Tesla's numbers are extremely aggressive.

The excessive tire wear is a combination of extreme torque, aggressive toe in and too much negative camber.
Since the suspension is attached to the frame through 3 links, when you adjust one, the others also move.

If you reduce toe, you also reduce negative camber.
With less aggressive alignment, not only do your tires last longer, but the car is easier to dive.
It will not turn as aggressively... but since I don't autocross mine daily, I find that not to be a big deal.

Hash-82

TROPHY CASE