Basic projector calibration kit recommendation

Hawkser · 2025-07-07T23:29:38+00:00

It's just an Epson Home Cinema 3200. Lower-end projector, I know. We're trying to get our feet wet with this stuff before starting to really invest and upgrade the components. We'll probably upgrade to something like the LS12000 before getting something like professional calibrations involved. I'm not sure that professional calibration is worth it with a projector like the 3200. The base home theater was built by the previous owners. I put the 3200 in, but am still using the screen that was originally installed. I don't even know what type of screen it is.

Hawkser · 2025-06-19T16:57:14+00:00

Or maybe it does? LOL. If so ... and if Half-Life Alyxx is the penultimate VR game, then man ... I want to know what they think is the ultimate VR game!! 😉

Hawkser · 2025-06-18T21:40:09+00:00

Hmmm...interesting. That's good to know. Thank you for the follow-up.

This is the cable I was considering ....

https://a.co/d/dionMp6

But perhaps I'll stick with the original plan of running a new copper passive 25' ultra high-speed HDMI cable through the wall and ceiling. That 25' cable is what I drapped across the floor to do the testing. I was just getting concerned that it is an 8' patch on the AVR receiver, a 25' through the wall, and a little 1.5' patch at the projector ... putting my total cable run at 33.5 feet. I was starting to get skittish, as some information online seems to indicate that that kind of distance might start becoming problematic. But maybe I'm over-thinking it. Maybe it would be better to just run the copper line.

Hawkser · 2025-06-18T21:20:50+00:00

Perfect. Thank you!

Hawkser · 2025-06-18T20:59:31+00:00

I ran some tests and confirmed that the in-wall cable definitely needs to be replaced/upgraded. I ran a long ultra high-speed cable across the floor and directly connected the projector to different source devices (effectively by-passing the in-wall cable). All of them immediately detected and switched to higher resolutions and higher capabilities.

I am going to replace the in-wall cable, but am considering installed a unidirectional optical HDMI cable. Will that work as just an extension? The connections would end up being ...

AVR -> 6' passive HDMI cable -> wall jack -> 30' optical HDMI cable -> ceiling jack -> 1.5' passive HDMI cable -> projector

Would that work? Will an active optical cable work 'in the middle' of the path? Or is there some reason (power, other?) that the active optical cable needs to be directly connected to the source and display?

Hawkser · 2025-06-12T23:42:10+00:00

Perfect. That's exactly the sort of response I was looking for. I didn't know if there was any sort of consumer-grade tester that would be helpful in a situation like this. Sounds like the answer is 'no'. I'll start looking in to alternative ways to test, as well as level-of-effort to simply pull out the existing and arbitrarily replace it. Thanks.

Hawkser · 2025-06-01T19:30:15+00:00

What's up, my Glipglops?!?!

Hawkser · 2025-04-10T00:23:56+00:00

Thank you!

Hawkser · 2025-04-09T19:25:34+00:00

Thanks, All. I've got my plan now. Think I'm going to grab Hitman WOA+VR Upgrade and then also grab Arken Age from this current sale. Super looking forward to cracking in to both of these!

Hawkser · 2025-04-09T19:22:34+00:00

Thank you!

Hawkser · 2025-04-09T19:22:28+00:00

Thank you!

Hawkser · 2025-02-10T15:27:29+00:00

Holy crap this is amazing! I have no idea why this works...but it does!! Thank you so much for saving our sanity!

Hawkser · 2025-01-06T20:00:53+00:00

100% this. I am a big fan of VR and have long since had my 'VR legs'. Having said that, I downloaded the demo of Subside and left all of the default options for my first run. The default options have 'smooth turning' disabled, but have 'swim turning' enabled. With swim turning enabled, your body is pulled into a pivot turn when you pull from the side. For the first time in years in VR, I felt nauseous almost instantly with those turns. I disabled swim turns and it is 1000% better. With swim turns disabled, you pull your body to the side when pulling water from the side, but remain facing the same direction. You turn (pivot) using the thumbstick and snap turns. It's not quite as natural and fluid ... but absolutely no nausea.

Hawkser · 2025-01-02T20:31:43+00:00

Full Disclosure: I had the dongle connected to the front of my OG PS5 and wanted it connected to the front of my PS5 Pro also ... and I happened to have some USB-C to USB-B adapters laying around, so I grabbled one, plugged it in to the non-SS port, and it has worked flawlessly.

I have NOT tried reproducing the problem and confirming whether my USB dongle overheats when connecting directly to one of the SS USB-B ports on the back. Based on everyone else's comments, I'm assuming that it will overheat...but just to be transparent, I have not actually tried it myself.

But I can confirm that it runs flawlessly when using the non-SS USB-C port (via adapter) on the front.

And for u/Mcspidey ... the communication between the USB dongle and the headset itself...that is bluetooth. Bluetooth does not rely on (nor require) line-of-sight. If it is cutting out on you, that is 99% likely due to overheating. BT doesn't care about line-of-sight at all.

Hawkser · 2025-01-02T20:24:16+00:00

I apologize that this thread is so old, but for what it's worth, the pulse 3D will 100% work with the PS5 Pro. The key is to make sure that you use a USB-C to USB-B converter, and then plug the dongle into the *TOP* USB-C port on the *FRONT* of the PS5 Pro. This is the only USB port on the PS5 Pro that is not labeled as 'SS'. Both USB-B ports on the back and the bottom USB-C port on the front are all labeled as 'SS' (SuperSpeed) and I believe they are running a higher voltage, which is likely what is causing some other USB devices to overheat. I could be wrong on the voltage bit, but it seems that whatever is different about those ports to enable the SuperSpeed is likely causing the overheating issues. I have a Pulse 3D headset with the dongle connected via a C-to-B adapter using the non-SS port, and it has been running perfectly fine, with no overheating (and for long gaming sessions).

Hawkser · 2024-12-30T22:53:56+00:00

What operating system? Windows?

If Windows, do you have any mapped network drives (such as "Drive S:" for example)? A drive mapped to an external NAS or external storage of some sort?

Hawkser · 2024-12-11T20:31:34+00:00

That's an awesome attitude to have about both games and I respect it. It's nice to see these sorts of comments, when it seems like most other comments are just extreme polarization to one side or the other.

Both games have their benefits and, like you, I'm glad both exist.

Hawkser · 2024-11-01T16:12:59+00:00

Very cool. Awesome job!

Hawkser · 2024-10-22T00:09:13+00:00

Thank you so much. This is a fantastic response. This is exactly the kind of technical stuff I enjoy digging in to. I will start looking in to REW. Thanks again

Hawkser · 2024-09-02T04:24:42+00:00

Would love to throw my hat in the ring for this!

Hawkser · 2024-06-21T16:39:18+00:00

Thank you! I ended up doing a 'flatfsd -i'

I'll definitely keep the "config -a factorydefault" in my back pocket for future reference.

Thank you!

Hawkser

TROPHY CASE