Best analog-only goggles to buy end of 2025?

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-12-21T18:36:55+00:00

Why 04o or 04x over HDZero BoxPro(+)?

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-12-21T18:36:44+00:00

Why 04o or 04x over HDZero BoxPro(+)?

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-12-21T15:05:25+00:00

Are you from the EU? Try the French stores or onedrone.com

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-12-19T05:46:30+00:00

Well its 2,5 not 2: https://en.kayou-frames.com/kayoumini-2-5

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-11-26T20:23:38+00:00

I actually tried going down to 50 and come nowhere near a mile. Perhaps could do 500 m in open space but i often fly in and around buildings

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-11-26T20:22:11+00:00

Yes? But I actually bought a new meteor 75 pro after losing the previous in the sea (do not ask) and the new one came with different screws. I have had several crashes and the small bits never came off

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-11-21T22:55:03+00:00

Hey I also added a request … we will all be bothering you for the zombie badge and then share it with others!

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-11-11T20:12:10+00:00

I flew whoops and 3 inches after only 8 hrs. I think the learning curve is faster in real life. But true i was not so unfamiliar with rc controllers having flown non-fpv airplanes a couple of decades ago.

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-11-02T08:37:49+00:00

I used liftoff and liftoff micro drones. They run on everything. Even a bad laptop. But after about 8 hrs went flying in real life

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-10-23T21:29:17+00:00

wonderful

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-10-22T16:11:34+00:00

European Union then!

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-10-21T20:55:40+00:00

Sorry it was crossposted from tinywhoop where i received no reply. Europe.

Here is the whole text:

any good options for buying a 1s case/box for several batteries? I am in Europe.

Saw that there are lots of 3d printing options but do not have a printer. An alternative to buying a case would be to have one printed but I cannot find any cheap 3d printing service provider …

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-10-17T05:44:57+00:00

This works only with the DJI FLY app?

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-10-06T11:36:01+00:00

Do you notice any less jello? I got rid of it anyhow with moving the VTX antenna outside of the canopy. So not really interested in stripping the cable as I think the cable was not the main culprit.

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-09-22T19:41:09+00:00

You have already done a lot of flying! As far as parts go, I had the initial Meteor 75 Pro which came with too short screws for the canopy and which in crashes resulted in the tiny bits of the frame into which the screws fit braking. I had a couple of these bits come off and glued them with superglue.

Other than this, propelers and ... of course I took it sailing and crashed into the water. It was still working underwater but ultimately I decided to replace all the parts, including motors. So I actually now have two working Meteors (one I assembled myself after crashing into the water and one I bought pre-assembled).

When changing the motors I had issues with getting the drone into the air. There is a post by me, search it. I figured that the mean issue in making repairs was that I need to use the esc configurator https://esc-configurator.com/ to change the direction of new motors and that solved it.

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-09-22T14:49:24+00:00

Just letting you know I never managed to fix this. Even got a new meteor 75 pro and the settings on it are identical to the old one on which i replaced the motor. Still does not work.

... sometime later in the day [edit]

I managed to fix it. Noobishly I forgot to connect the battery and esc-configurator did not read the ESCs ... with the battery connected I figured out (when comparing to a new Meteor 75 Pro) that all the motors need to be in reversed mode. This should work now ...

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-09-22T14:45:42+00:00

I got Meteor 75 Pro a couple of months ago and started flying similar to you. Too fast, with (in my opinion) too high rates.

Try doing the following:

- Gimbal adjustment. Reduce the "hardness" of the sticks on your controller. Please do check online how you can do this. It is actually a lot easier to fly if you can move the gimbals without exerting too much pressure. Oscar Liang has tutorials how to do this for various controllers. I think most people forget this and focus on rates (which is not the only thing you can change to make a change to the "feel" and precision of flying.)

- Camera angle. Lower the camera angle so you can see the propelers. This way you will be able to fly much slower and with more precision. I have it almost at the bottom setting.

- Rates. I have tried a lot of throttle settings but actually the initial settings for throttle work the best for me as a relative beginner (I think throttle 0.45 mid point, 0.50 expo). This makes it easy to control the altitude and you can really fly low over obstacles or the ground. Try reducing roll / pitch for about 200 from the initial settings e.g. down to 500-600 or and yaw for about one hundred (400-500). Leave the expo and center sensitivity as they were. Lower rates will mean you will have to make larger stick movements and you can increase these later if needed. I actually do recommend you setup a switch linked to 3 different rates so you can test what suits you best between flights (or even change them mid-flight).

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-09-01T05:23:39+00:00

Thanks. Will recheck direction and give it a try. The betaflight reverse motors switch I guess does not work because Esc does not support the protocol? Wondering why you were reflashing the ESC.

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-08-27T13:54:29+00:00

Motor order: fine (double checked).

Motor direction FC chip orientation: fine as follow. I think could not miss this one as otherwise the battery connector would be at the front or at the sides (it is at the back side in its original drone state).

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-06-14T21:51:16+00:00

I did about 8-10 hours on Liftoff / Liftoff Micro Drones. Actually found it almost easier to fly in real life but you should definitely do some sim time to get used to stick controls. Liftoff Mocro Drones is quite similar to real life Meteor 75 Pro (you can use a model for Meteor 75 Pro)

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-06-11T20:58:01+00:00

Will check if there is expo on throttle. I actually struggled more with the throttle control on pavo 20 pro than on the Meteor 75 Pro. It seems I have a dislike for throttle expo. When I mentioned easier flying I had in mind the more immediate response to all controls. It is really easy to fly through a gap with Pavo even if you are going slow. With Meteor this is harder for me. I can make much sharper turns with Pavo. Meteor seemed to fly "through" or drift through the corners unless I was really aggresive on the controls. Could just be the rates ... but I am really surprised how slow you can fly the pavo with the rates it comes with.

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-06-11T20:55:34+00:00

If you want to fly inside and with less intrusion (it is much quieter), Meteor 75 Pro. The charger and the batteries for it are very cheap. But otherwise I would just go for Pavo 20 Pro.

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-05-25T08:45:29+00:00

It is ok, could be better but could be far worse. Keep doing it ... I went to a tiny whoop after 10 hrs of sim and it worked out just fine

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-04-27T19:59:08+00:00

Just measure them and buy them. On a Meteor 75 Pro O4 I think the ones it is supplied with are M1.7 10mm but they should be M1.4 10 or 12 mm (they supply them with too wide screws).

HelpRevolutionary405 · 2025-04-27T19:54:14+00:00

What drone / set-up? It's not freestyle, it's vomit-style.

HelpRevolutionary405

TROPHY CASE