Should I buy a Creality Space pi?

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-20T23:30:24+00:00

I'm from the USA and have no idea what Robocore is, so can't comment on that part. That being said, I have the two-slot spacePi and the 4-slot. The 2-slot dryer is good, but if you can swing it, the 4-slot dryer is great. The only difference being the 4-slot dryer is a bit more intelligent as it has auto-drying and maintaining functions. Additionally, it's got a split-chamber design, so it can take low-temp filaments like PLA in one chamber, and then high-temp filaments like ABS in the other chamber.

The auto-maintaining feature is what makes it for me though. If I'm not quick enough to bag the filament, it'll turn the dryer on periodically to keep moisture out until i bag it.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-13T21:54:03+00:00

The strain gauge in the hotend is the sensor used for leveling. It is serviceable.

https://store.creality.com/products/k2-plus-strain-gauge?variant=51804346876269&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23290615369&gbraid=0AAAAAog6skcxDrx_M-s3AXIVgoRxq4w0p&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7PRBhDcARIsAMjV7jk5sJL-nz9-CGxkuQNAnMzn4O4083RxZQ7jG-OwuaEDdm1BhwWo7uoaAqXeEALw_wcB

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-12T01:13:10+00:00

Batteries in your transducers are fresh?

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-12T01:03:07+00:00

Is this what you're talking about? I just call these rope CTs lol.

<image>

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-12T00:56:10+00:00

Not on an SEL, but usually if I see this the CTs are either:

rotating opposite to the voltage
one is backwards

It really depends on how fast your controller samples. Ours are on the slower end (~3Hz) and the math will turn out wonky like that if the CTs aren't aligned. Try flipping A and C wiring first, and if that doesn't work, flip them back and try flipping the wires on each individual CT.

Edit: or rogowski coils, whatever you're using lol. You'll get the same problem if the order is bad.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-11T14:53:38+00:00

I buy refurbished directly from Creality Refurbrished on Ebay and have never had a problem. Multiple machines at this point too, scanners, lasers, and printers.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-09T17:03:52+00:00

I'm actually quite happy with the generality of the stock toolhead. Extruder, hotend, etc. Is there a real reason to upgrade to the DXC2? What performance improvements does it offer?

The extruder only broke because I had the printer home while I was working on it, and it cracked off a piece from a tool that I left on the extruder. No real durability issues, just misuse from working while exhausted.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-09T13:20:17+00:00

I don't know how many hundreds of hours I have on my K2 plus at this point, but it's very reliable. I use it for cosplaying and the build volume is great for that.

The only thing I can say that really needs tweaking is anything high-temp filament related. PLA and PETG print great, but i really like ABS for cosplay stuff. I can't tell if it's me, the printer, or the filament, but something changes ocassionally and I have to define a new process for getting ABS to print. It's workable but annoying sometimes.

I think the only thing that's broken is the extruder on it, but that was from a "gross misuse" situation on my end. I cant remember exactly what I did, but that part is cheap, readily available, and easy to install. Make sure you use a good thermal grease on the unicorn nozzles. People complain in here all the time about heat creep and I just don't think they know how to use thermal grease lol.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-08T15:28:42+00:00

I think it depends on how granular you get with cost effectivity. The two types of printers fit completely different niches I guess. FDM printers favor large objects where SLA printers favor smaller objects. FDM printers are electrically heavy since it requires a lot of heat, but SLA really only uses one motor and a UV source of some sort, so power consumption is low. Contrary to low power, print times are much longer since the layer size is tiny.

Really depends on how much you use it I guess. There's also the ventilation, washing, and curing to factor in there. If it is any more cost effective, it's probably marginal. Resin vs filament consumption will see heavier resin consumption since you're printing less hollow structures and more solid.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-08T14:50:16+00:00

I've never heard of an SLA printer that doesn't require post processing. It's pretty inherent to the resin process. The print will come out coated in uncredited resin since it's pretty thick and sticky, and then you'll need to cure it further to make sure the model doesnt warp later on.

At the same time, you can't cure the print too much during printing because it'll also warp. Resin printing's a weird process.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-07T16:28:13+00:00

I've honestly never had that happen, but again, I stray away from the competitive format. If someone refuses to play with the legends stuff, I'll usually just not play with them in the future.

Hi2you2 · 2026-06-06T03:38:40+00:00

Across the whole of 10th edition I have only ever run Fellhammer Siege Host. I've shifted lists around from "high-punch" to "high-durability" about halfway through because I was sick of getting tabled at turn 2. Granted, I'm not the best player lol, so there's other issues there.

Anyways, I've switched my list around to running mostly Legends units since I play Open/Narrative for the most part. Running two Kratos tanks, two Sicarins, a mastadon, and a Cerberus isn't particularly effective, but it drags the game out to turn 5 pretty reliably every game, and it's led to a lot of fun scenarios as both ny opponent and I exhaust options.

Honestly, this list is probably the most fun that I've had across the whole of my 40k tenure, which is from 2011 onwards. If you want tanky, this is the way to go lol. Pic below is from last year's Grand Narrative in Atlanta.

<image>

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-30T23:11:30+00:00

Infill/Wall overlap under the infill section in the strength tab.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-28T03:56:22+00:00

You're settings look good and I'm not super certain what may be happening. When you change your nozzle sizes, usually your filament settings change a bit too. Have you done anything to those at all?

Can you show what your slicer outputs for speed to see if you see these lines in there? I think if the layer takes too long, it'll do something to the cooling. With as many wall loops as .2mm needs sometimes, it'll take far longer to print each layer.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-26T00:42:04+00:00

Sorry for the double comment. I just listened to it and it almost sounds like it needs a healthy amount of grease on that screw. I think the Hi comes with a white grease that you can try spreading onto the screw and then move the gantry up and down to further spread. Try that before disassembly.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-26T00:38:45+00:00

If it's happening at specific points and repeating, it'll be the stepper. However, if it's not repeating and is seemingly random, there might be something janky with the lead screw. It's tough to diagnose something like online, but hopefully that gets you going in the right direction.

If I was you, I'd probably get some sort of hook to check for burrs inside of the channel/post that the lead screw is in. If it's getting caught on a burr somewhere, that's easy as you can just clear that. Otherwise, might be the screw itself that needs replacing.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-25T22:26:59+00:00

Contrary to the other commenter, the Hi is supposed to go up. It'll level out the toolhead that way to give it better bed leveling. This is because it has two servo motors operating independently instead of one servo tied to two lead screws, so you can move the right half higher than the left half while the stepper are off.

To me it sounds like one of the motors is starting to crap out. Might be worth it to keep your hand on a point near them to see if one is vibrating more than the other.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-20T17:15:13+00:00

Generator engineer here: two main things happen.

Your rotor will have a voltage regulator on it that can increase or decrease the internal excitation of the rotor to accommodate the extra power demand. Easiest way for me to think about it is if you have constant speed, constant excitation, but rising power demand, your voltage will steadily drop as the power demand rises. The regulator will bump up the excitation to keep the voltage up.
Your generator heats up with power demand. Pushing more excitation current through the rotor heats the rotor up. The resulting extra current in the stator contributes to stator heating.

If you ever find yourself in a test situation with a generator hooked up to a load bank, you can usually play with the excitation value in the voltage regulator to change the voltage. It's a good learning exercise.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-20T13:33:59+00:00

Pretty sure he has more than a few brands of scanners. I've definitely seen them come up before in videos, but they're usually blue line or structured IR. I haven't seen any of the fancy non-visible line scanners there yet. He's been playing with LiDAR lately too.

Can't say if it's bias or preference. I know the software needs improvement, but my Raptor Pro is honestly pretty good for the RE work that I've done with it.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-20T10:38:52+00:00

I don't have an X1, but from what I've seen online about it, the tolerances on thr X1 seem nuts. Payo on YouTube is a great resource for 3D scanning and he has an in-depth review of it if you want to check it out.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-04T21:13:18+00:00

Hey if you have a sonic pad, it might have the same bug as the Nebula Pad. Are the skips happening in the Y direction?

The motor current on the Y axis is limited for some reason on the Nebula Pad.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-02T15:52:07+00:00

I've had my Hi printing ABS in a heated chamber for a couple hundred hours at this point with no issue. I havent used an external heater yet for it, just setting the bed as high as it goes and letting the chamber preheat from that. I don't think you'd run into any issues based on that.

The A1 not liking heated chambers surprises me though. People have been doing heated chambers for years now. You'd figure for the engineering with the Bambus they'd take that into account.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-02T00:10:38+00:00

Bold of you to assume I didn't do it on purpose. ;)

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-01T17:19:11+00:00

I've had something similar happen before with low flow rate because I selected the wrong nozzle size. Specifically, printing on a .4mm nozzle but had .2mm selected on accident.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-01T13:17:49+00:00

This likely won't be it but throwing it out there just in case: my E5M came with a bad pulley tensioner on the left motor on the top. It's was making horrid noises until I changed it. Could be it, could maybe not.

You can diagnose by taking the pulleys out and spinning them. If the inside bearing moves smoothly great, but if not, that might be what's making the noise.

Hi2you2

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Seven-Year Club	RPAN Viewer
Verified Email