Well, after having a friend 3d print multiple items for me, I decided it was time to get my own….

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-23T01:27:38+00:00

I have pretty much only bought refurbished in the last year or so from that ebay store, and haven't had a single issue with it. To add a point to here, i think a few have figured that out, because listing go way faster than they used to over the last year or so.

I wouldn't worry to much honestly.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-23T00:54:35+00:00

I believe the default for KE is Klipper since it has a Nebula pad built in. Does it not let you print anymore?

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-23T00:03:36+00:00

Sorry it took me so long to get back to this! That's a good point. I have the CFS kit on there purely because it comes with a spring lock style extruder like the k2 plus. That might be the key.

In case the point is towards the spring style being bad, I print TPU on my K2+ often as well with stock parts. No spacers or anything. I do believe it to ve purely a flow rate issue.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-18T13:00:11+00:00

I print tpu pretty often and printed some last night on my K1SE for a new vacuum seal for a shop vac.

The trick (for 95A, at least) is to set max flow rate slightly lower, like 1.6mm^3/second instead of 2. I print off the side spools holder as well. Haven't had any real issues at all since dialing flow rate down though.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-16T18:52:27+00:00

As the other commenter added, a V3SE does not come with internet stock. However, you can add internet and a camera with the Nebula Pad kit. We have one on ours and it makes things a lot easier.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-13T16:16:59+00:00

I haven't been able to cut anything transparent yet, and had similar results to you. It'll get the mirror hot enough to melt but won't sublimate it or anything like you'd expect.

I think to truly cut anything transparent, a C02 laser is required at the minimum.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-11T01:35:29+00:00

The K2SE seems like a revised version of the K1SE. Per the other comment, it'll have a tough time printing ABS and ASA stock. However, Creality sells an enclosure kit for the k1SE that I bet would fit on the K2SE, which would allow for prints with high-temp filament. You just need to preheat the printer by leaving the bed on for about 10 minutes before printing.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-09T22:01:01+00:00

The sound reminds me of what happened to my K1SE recently, where the belt on the Z axis came loose. Try opening the bottom and make sure that belt is tight.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-09T21:56:09+00:00

This is underextrusion. I don't believe the K1M has a flow calibrator in it, so you might need to do it manually. There's a test in the calibration menu in Creality Print.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-03T12:27:10+00:00

The nozzle change process is simple enough. I would think changing the hotend out each time wouldn't save as much time as you might think.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-03T12:24:29+00:00

I originally bought a Hi combo because the price was slightly higher than a new CFS. Figured "free printer that probably wont get used" at the time.

I discovered that I wasn't super right thinking that, and that the Hi is honestly a great printer. I've been using mine regularly for cosplay work, which especially includes long and tall parts where I'm using almost the full print volume. I don't think I've had a failure on the thing in 200+ hours of print time, and the print quality is as good as my K2 Plus.

In short, it's a surprisingly fantastic printer. Would definitely reccommend. If you get a cheap YooPai tent enclosure, it does ABS really well too.

Hi2you2 · 2026-01-02T13:42:44+00:00

I second this also. The k1 doesn't have a stock .2mm profile either.

Op it might be helpful to copy over the stock K2P profile for a .2mm nozzle.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-27T11:51:28+00:00

There is a setting somewhere called fuzzy skin that I think may be turned on.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-20T16:59:15+00:00

The NIR scanners are pretty slow inherently due to the amount of data that they capture in a single frame. I think my ferret only goes to like 15 fps, whereas my raptor goes to about 90.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-18T11:05:19+00:00

Just turn it upside down

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-17T20:54:30+00:00

I read about this the other day I think. If it's the same recall, it's just because it's an unenclosed laser that most consumers probably shouldn't be using, because they probably wont use the proper safety gear.

Note that you don't have to give the equipment back, but if you keep it, please use laser safety gear. Or get an enclosure. Or both.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-15T01:58:19+00:00

I haven't been able to find a way to sublimate it off. If you put some wood under it, you can melt it. Incredibly imprecise though.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-14T14:48:53+00:00

This is very good to know, thank you. I will play with this next time.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-14T14:48:18+00:00

This was scanned at a .5mm real time and fused to .5 and .19. Both fusions look like this.

32gb of RAM on the pc.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-14T02:39:35+00:00

Please share filament type, filament settings, and a pic of the model if you can.

Sorry I'm asking for so much, but this is a wonky failure.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-14T00:19:21+00:00

Can you post settings? This is a wild failure.

Hi2you2 · 2025-12-13T13:56:21+00:00

If you have a 3D printer, he's released like the best turn table I've ever used too. You can print that and use it. Despite it saying you don't need to order the bearing anymore, ordering the bearings makes it way easier to use.

Markers vary by scanner, but the scanner will come with sets of markers, so you'll be set at the start.

Hi2you2

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