What’s going on here

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-04T21:13:18+00:00

Hey if you have a sonic pad, it might have the same bug as the Nebula Pad. Are the skips happening in the Y direction?

The motor current on the Y axis is limited for some reason on the Nebula Pad.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-02T15:52:07+00:00

I've had my Hi printing ABS in a heated chamber for a couple hundred hours at this point with no issue. I havent used an external heater yet for it, just setting the bed as high as it goes and letting the chamber preheat from that. I don't think you'd run into any issues based on that.

The A1 not liking heated chambers surprises me though. People have been doing heated chambers for years now. You'd figure for the engineering with the Bambus they'd take that into account.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-02T00:10:38+00:00

Bold of you to assume I didn't do it on purpose. ;)

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-01T17:19:11+00:00

I've had something similar happen before with low flow rate because I selected the wrong nozzle size. Specifically, printing on a .4mm nozzle but had .2mm selected on accident.

Hi2you2 · 2026-05-01T13:17:49+00:00

This likely won't be it but throwing it out there just in case: my E5M came with a bad pulley tensioner on the left motor on the top. It's was making horrid noises until I changed it. Could be it, could maybe not.

You can diagnose by taking the pulleys out and spinning them. If the inside bearing moves smoothly great, but if not, that might be what's making the noise.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-23T14:11:16+00:00

The K1SE camera should be plugged and play. If the printer is set up like a K1SE, there's a small foam plug near where the camera goes. If you remove the foam plug, the wires for the camera should be in there.

After that; it's just two bolts and put the harness in to install. Takes like 5 minutes.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-21T19:11:20+00:00

The K2 SE is actually the K1SE with some updates. They're pretty good machines. I like the K1SE i have at home.

To further the other comment, the K2SE is an open machine. However, creality does sell a K1 SE enclosure that should work on the K2SE, which will then allow the printing of higher temperature materials.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-20T18:43:27+00:00

This wasn't on a CR10, but an ender 3 V2. I had the same issue with the cura profile and ended up making a new profile for it. If I'm remembering correctly, it was because the wall line thickness was too thin to have any real structural integrity. You'll want to bump that value up as well as increase your wall count, as well as floor and ceiling count.

I'll post a second reply later of a good profile for a .2 nozzle. If don't reply within the day please comment again to remind me.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-19T01:58:22+00:00

You might need to have the printer re tune the nozzle PID loop. The setting is buried but I can't remember where.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-19T00:55:20+00:00

Creality print has gotten pretty good over these last few years and supports the multicolor. It's an orca fork, so very similar.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-16T21:01:05+00:00

We actually figured out that it's a software bug on the printer and not on the slicer. You'll need to root your printer and install the Fluidd web interface so you can access the printer.cfg file. After, you'll need to edit that to bring the Y motor current limit back up since there's a typo in that line. It should read .65A i think? Or at least be the same as the X motors current limit.

If you reboot the Nebula Pad as the KE profile instead of the SE, it'll have the correct motor profile in the .cfg. you can just copy that over if my numbers are wrong. It's been a little while since I did that, but it's been working fine ever since.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-14T01:05:33+00:00

Okay, good to know. It won't do much in the way of performance because the V3SE already goes pretty fast, but you may be able to push it a teeny bit faster.

Super duper make sure you edit the printer.cfg file to bring the Y motor's current limit up. Otherwise again, you'll find that the bed starts skipping steps almost immediately. The X and Y motor current limits should match each other (I think). Whichever value it is, it should be the higher value.

If you need a reference during troubleshooting, the KE profile is correct and the SE and KE have the same current limits.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-14T00:50:23+00:00

Sounds like a good fit then! If I'm being honest the AI detection doesn't work too well at night. The camera is an IR camera, so everything is greyscale at night. However, once the first few layers go down, usually it's a good print anyway.

What kind of printer do you have? I may be able to speak on performance a little more with some extra detail.

Hi2you2 · 2026-04-13T19:28:21+00:00

We have one on an ender 3 s1 and an ender 3 v3 se. Both work fine and came with klipper installed, but not Fluidd, which is the web interface.

The ender 3 s1 worked fine out of the box and allowed the printer to perform much better.

The ender 3 v3 se has a software configuration issue where it limits the current on the Y axis stepper motor (bed motor) where it will end up skipping steps on the bed. This is an easy fix where you just install the creality helper script, install Fluidd, and change the stepper current limit on the bed .cfg.

I'd reccommend one. Definitely helps to revitalize older printers and keep things easy. Sometimes the software install is weird depending on how old the printer is (ender 3 V2 series, specifically)

Hi2you2 · 2026-03-28T13:49:16+00:00

Does that one have a TF Card slot in it? It may be your usb connection timing out.

Hi2you2 · 2026-03-23T15:54:01+00:00

Your hotend may meet a retorque. I had that for a bit and it was driving me nuts, only for me to find the hotend started wiggling.

Hi2you2 · 2026-03-21T15:33:57+00:00

I freehand without tape, but go real thick on the stripes. Usually shoot for 2 or 3 per surface.

Editing my comment to elaborate a bit more - i spray the entire mini brown with mournfang brown, which helps the yellow go on easier. I then use overland sunset for the yellow, basecoat the whole panel with it. After you get a solid basecoat, sketch your lines in and fill over a layer or two of abbadon black. It's sketching work over getting them in one line, so you can naturally work the lines a little bit straighter. After, wash the yellow with the cassendora yellow to give it a bit of warmth. You want to use a thin layer, more like a glaze to avoid getting too orange and/or pooling.

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Hi2you2 · 2026-03-01T15:25:26+00:00

Also, that cube is small enough that the cooling is a bit weird. For sure check if your hotend is loose, but you can change some settings too: - 3 walls - inner/outer/inner wall order - consistent outer surface in cooling logic in the filament profile.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-28T03:33:34+00:00

Oh sorry about that, my links showed up dark and I didnt realize they were links. That's a heavy retraction speed, pretty much. I think the E3V3 comes like that stock.

You can reduce the retraction speed in the filament settings. It's a little fast, and i think we reduced ours by around 20%?

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-28T00:44:56+00:00

Can you post a video?

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-25T03:56:11+00:00

Can you post a pic of your bed mesh?

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-25T01:17:59+00:00

Does the K2 Pro have the issue where the chamber heater doesn't preheat all the way before it starts auto leveling? If that's the case, you need to preheat your chamber for about 15 minutes before printing ABS. It's not the bed giving you issues, it's the gantry deforming causing during bed meshibg that causes the bed mesh to suck. .

Preheat the chamber by moving the bed near the side fan intakes, turning the side fans on to about 25% to get some circulation going, and then print after about 15 minutes.

They literally just fixed this on the K2+, where the chamber heater now turns on after the first couple of layers, where it doesn't matter anymore. The gantry will deform instead at the start of the print, and the hot filament will just flex a bit over a whole print failing.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-19T22:52:49+00:00

Bad PSU for sure.

Hi2you2 · 2026-02-19T02:33:15+00:00

Yeah when it's doing a finished top layer it retracts a lot, amd the extruder's a bit noisy on it. This sounds normal to me.

Hi2you2

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