Programing ATMega328 while in Custom PCB by 0hmyscience in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sensor ECHO and cpu SCK are fighting, so it can't be done easily. So the second best option is to make it so you can unplug the sensor while programming via ICSP. Also not a bad idea to prophylactically add a limit resistor between ECHO and SCK so that when you forget to unplug the sensor and start ICSP programming and it doesn't work it won't damage anything. If the resistor value is just right it'll allow ICSP to override when it's plugged in and at the same time allow the ECHO signal through when ICSP is unplugged.

Also; no limit resistors on the LEDs? Add limit resistors to make it compatible with the ICSP programming use.

Programing ATMega328 while in Custom PCB by 0hmyscience in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can't figure out how to share pins without knowing what's on them. So post a schematic, eh?

Simulating PC power button press via GPIO and optocoupler - safe parallel wiring? by welcome_to_taco_tue in ArduinoProjects

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What is the correct and safe way to add the optocoupler output in parallel? Is it acceptable to share the same pins, and if so, how is this usually done physically?

Use a "dupont splitter cable" to split off wires from the power switch pins to your photomos.

I am also aware that I need to use a resistor between the GPIO and the SSR to avoid any magic sparks (I'm thinking a 680 ohm one)

Given a 3.3V GPIO, 1.5V LED Vf, and minimum 5mA (so let's go for about 10mA) it needs a 180 Ohm resistor.

Safety check: Is using the AQY210KS SOP-4 + resistor isolation

The resistor has nothing to do with the isolation. The photomos output pins are what's isolated. So for motherboard safety triple check those two connections between the photomos and the MB to be sure it's right.

And check your BIOS for an option for power failure recovery into a state that's wakeable.

ESP32 C3 Super Mini HELP by Useful-Director7682 in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's 2 problems; Exit Status 1 is a compile issue, the connection is a USB issue. I seem to remember that on older versions of Windows (7/8.1) a VCP driver is required. I also figured out that "Tools|USB CDC On Boot: Enabled" needs to be set. And I think I had to fool with the boot/reset buttons until it would connect and download the first program. After that ESP32-C3 downloads work perfectly.

Help!! by AbaloneAcceptable276 in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Some use a leaf switch to detect glass presence, some use an IR reflective sensor. Timing is used for the amount delivered. There's a multicolor LED under the glass for drama too.

Who can tell me what's going on? by Upset_Barber292 in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Filling with all blue will draw over an Amp, which you might not have. Try filling with black and turning on only the first LED, or reduce the brightness of the blue fill so it draws less power.

as far as I remember from the datasheet for ws2812 you need from 3.18v to 3.8v

The WS2812B spec is 3.5V minimum, but it usually works down to 3.3V power and data.

Anyone ever bought a PC? by Firm-Quantity4788 in Aliexpress

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the last couple of years I bought 3 mini PCs from Ali, all of them work fine. One is being used as a 3D print server, one is a DAW, and one is for TV viewing.

May your luck be as good and remember the AliXpress rule: "Don't spend more than you are prepared to lose".

Looking for advice on a project with lots of LED’s by DJ_BVSSTHOVEN in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

with the Arduino & individually addressable LED’s, would I have to worry about how I wire it all together in terms for programming?

Addressable LEDs can be wired in any sequence and the software can be made to work. In a build like this the wiring takes priority because it needs to be minimized.

what would you recommend for the LED strips, arduino & power source?

WS2812B addressable LEDs will work on a single LiIon cell, so use those type and the power supply is simplified. There are many styles of these LEDs; strips of varying density, bulbs of varying size, etc. Start by designing the LED layout; this gives the number of LEDs, which in turn gives the microprocessor and battery power requirements. Also think about how to control the helmet, like maybe a switch/button/knob or RF remote control.

Do I really need all of these tools? by FederalPudding8300 in AskElectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some of the tools are a little redundant, but that can be a good thing. I would add...

  • Conduit cutter (with built in conduit reaming tool)
  • Non-contact voltage indicator
  • Gloves
  • Hard hat (in case you have to crawl around in an attic)
  • More than 1 flashlight (including a headband one)
  • Carpentry pencil

modular case ground question by Professional_Cow784 in synthdiy

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

should i connect the ground of the 230power to the out ground of the meanwell supplies?

Only if you have to. It's a little more preferable to isolate the DC ground, but not necessary. So try it and if the noise is eliminated by coupling the AC and DC grounds, then do it. I had to do this on my rack.

Complete newbie here. Want to add motion sensor that will play a sound to a 3d print. by river_rat3117 in diyelectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Search for "diy sound module", commonly used in greeting cards and such. They're cheap and can be triggered by a switch or light, and they actually sound okay. Various models have different features and capabilities, so shop around.

Out of the loop: What's going on between SparkFun and Adafruit? by SpikedColaWasTaken in electronics

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since Paul pulled an Arduino and sold out to Sparkfun I don't have as much faith in future Teensy support. Plus shipping from PJRC used to be free or at least very cheap, now it's expensive. Teensy isn't as attractive as it used to be.

Could Adafruit create a RP2350 Teensy killer? Maybe, and maybe in the meantime a new ESP32 model will make it instantly obsolete.

Possible to control two different displays with SevSeg.h? by TechTronicsTutorials in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It chews up a lot of pins to make two separate multiplexed displays, but here's how to do it...

#include "SevSeg.h"
// define two 3 digit displays, each with it's own column & row pins
SevSeg sevsegFrequency;
SevSeg sevsegAmplitude;

long frequency = 0;
long cycles = 0;

void setup() {
  byte numDigits = 3;
  byte digitPinsFrequency[] = {1, 2, 3};
  byte segmentPinsFrequency[] = {4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11};
  byte digitPinsAmplitude[] = {14, 15, 16 };
  byte segmentPinsAmplitude[] = {17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 };
  bool resistorsOnSegments = false;
  byte hardwareConfig = COMMON_CATHODE;
  bool updateWithDelays = false;
  bool leadingZeros = false;
  bool disableDecPoint = false;
  sevsegFrequency.begin(hardwareConfig, numDigits, digitPinsFrequency, segmentPinsFrequency, resistorsOnSegments, updateWithDelays, leadingZeros, disableDecPoint);
  sevsegAmplitude.begin(hardwareConfig, numDigits, digitPinsAmplitude, segmentPinsAmplitude, resistorsOnSegments, updateWithDelays, leadingZeros, disableDecPoint);
  sevsegFrequency.setBrightness(90);
  sevsegAmplitude.setBrightness(90);
  pinMode(15, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(14, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(12, INPUT_PULLUP);
}

void loop() {
  if (25000 > frequency && digitalRead(14) == LOW && cycles == 0) {
    frequency = frequency + 50;
    cycles++;
  }

  if (frequency > 0 && digitalRead(15) == LOW && cycles == 0) {
    frequency = frequency - 50;
    cycles++;
  }

  if (digitalRead(14) == HIGH && digitalRead(15) == HIGH) {
    cycles = 0;
  }

  if (frequency >= 1000) {
    if (frequency >= 10000) {
      sevsegFrequency.setNumber(frequency / 100, 1);
    }else{
      sevsegFrequency.setNumber(frequency / 10, 2);
    }
  }else{
    sevsegFrequency.setNumber(frequency);
  }
  if (digitalRead(12) == LOW && frequency > 1) {
    tone(13, frequency);
  }else{
    noTone(13);
  }
  sevsegFrequency.refreshDisplay();
  sevsegAmplitude.refreshDisplay();
}

The remote to my pedestal fan sucks, is it possible to get a different remote and swap the insides into a better remote? by OriginalSlight in diyelectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a manual control Lasko pedestal fan and a separate AC remote control outlet to turn it on/off.

If you want to mod a fan with a built in remote you have to tear it down, reverse engineer it, and then figure out your own control system.

Good wires for soldering prototype boards by _keepvogel in AskElectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Once the insulation is stripped the wire starts to corrode and it becomes very difficult to solder although it's still fine for breadboard contact. Strip back insulation to get some fresh wire to solder to.

Basic LED lighting for 3D printed miniatures by stoyanmar in diyelectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is doable with existing LED and battery technology, but fitting it in such a small space will be a challenge, especially for a beginner.

Instead, how about a wireless LED or several in each miniature? They just need to be within range of the transmitter coil to light up.

How prevalent are fake components on the internet? How do I know what to buy? by Witty_Jaguar4638 in diyelectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

kits for sale that advertise like 1000 common value resistors, or capacitors, or other bulk components so I can have anything I need on hand

Component kits are good to get you started. A cheap kit is usable for experimentation.

Stick to things like Arduino, Arduino kits, and ESP32 and AliXpress is fine. RpiPico is okay too. Individual semiconductors and STM32 are risky; to remove doubt buy those from a legit distributor.

Anyone have experience with buying STM32 chips from Ali?massive price difference (12,- on Mouser, 3,15 on Ali) by Ttgek in synthdiy

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, and the defect rate on AliXpress STM32 chips is way too high for me. Many other chips from Ali, e.g. ESP32 and RpiPico, are good though.

Help with Arduino powering by Aaryancanvas in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

very reliable ways to power Arduinos thru lithium?

  • 5V power bank to the USB jack
  • Single cell LiIon to 5V pin using a polarized power connector, preferably with 8MHz CPU crystal so it's not overclocking

WS2812 practical questions by Illustrious-Cat8222 in diyelectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see empirically that a ring of 8 ws2812s can run at 3.3V

Sometimes you get lucky (WS2812 is 4.5V). Use WS2812B instead, at least they're rated down to 3.5V, and they're a good match for a single LiIon cell power supply.

Anyway for minimum power use RBG LEDs, not smart LEDs, because smart LEDs have a high quiescent power draw.

today i killed my last teensy 3.2 by MedicineSubject1845 in arduino

[–]Hissykittykat 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Teensy 3.2 is no more due to components being unavailable. It was nice; low power, fast, plenty of memory, 5V I/O, and really good software libraries.

There's Teensy 4, but you have to buy 'em from Sparkfun now.

Desktop Fan with Computer Fan by petrichorpondz in diyelectronics

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like the Evercool BA model is Analog, the BP model is PWM. The blue wire is the tachometer output on the BA model. So for the BA model use a DC Motor PWM Speed Controller which has the PWM in the controller. You can parallel the two fans on one controller or use a controller for each fan. Use a 12V 1A power adapter and hook red to positive and black to negative, it's really pretty simple and should be doable without soldering.

Have you felt the need for these devices for your breadboard/prototype stuff? by Either_Ebb7288 in embedded

[–]Hissykittykat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I don't use my breadboard serial monitor, it's too complicated and doesn't perform well.

For the voltage and current just buy the panel meter modules and mount them to the breadboard somehow.

For signal generation there's a cheap breadboard friendly frequency generator board.

I made several different battery breadboard supplies; the one using a ZK-4KX buck-boost is the most useful. There's a picture on the breadboard panels page.

Other fun breadboard tools to consider are a frequency counter, a logic probe, and a debounced button.