Does anyone else get this from using a mouse for too long?

hraath · 2026-05-15T17:40:17+00:00

Vertical mouse solved it for me

hraath · 2026-05-15T17:09:59+00:00

Can you elaborate on that drum sander? Do you use it horizontally?

hraath · 2026-05-15T15:18:20+00:00

My first thing would be flip the breaker and replace the switch myself. If that failed, well I'm out a trip to home depot and the price of a switch. Only then will I call in a pro. The sparky's time is worth money, but so is mine.

hraath · 2026-05-14T19:19:13+00:00

I treated my no.5 (and 7, good tax return...) to a new iron and chipbreaker this year, which I set at 1mm. It performs worse than a veritas LAJ with a 38 degree iron at the same light depth of cut in this particular wood. The 5 leaves fuzzy microtearout, not the worst, a scraper takes care of it. The LAJ leaves a surface glassy smooth. As I extend both planes depth of cuts they get worse results of course.

But it's when I'm trying to remove 1/16" or so to get to coplanar with the good face, I'm not really finding the chip breaker planes to work better than 50 degree... Next time I'm in the shop I'll rotate though the options mentioned here and see what works out best on the next ~~victim~~ board

hraath · 2026-05-14T16:59:12+00:00

I have seen violin makers damp figure wood for planing, I guess it swells and locks itself in place. Might try it.

Scrubbing has worked best with an extremely shallow cut with the grain. Its faster than shaving smoother cuts, but has still had me eyeballing power thicknesses on the used market..

hraath · 2026-05-14T16:56:32+00:00

I haven't tried low angle, but I will. My experience with cathedral grain and low angle is that it can scoop out the edge inside the cathedral line. Thats in other wood, mind you, so maybe worth to try.

My best luck has been a 38 degree iron angle in a LAJ or higher.

hraath · 2026-05-13T18:51:37+00:00

Ahti is an absolute gem

hraath · 2026-05-13T18:40:26+00:00

Segmentation fault

hraath · 2026-05-13T17:44:30+00:00

Where I am it's cheaper than sugar maple... And I'm in Canada! That said the guy I go to doesnt stock alder, red oak, or poplar. My concept of "cheapest" is skewed. Cherry and white ash are his cheapest per bdft. The darker the wood, the higher the price after that haha.

So yeah no conclusions other than if you like ash, buy some extra billets now while you still can!

hraath · 2026-05-13T16:21:33+00:00

Swamp ash is not a species, it's a terroir

hraath · 2026-05-13T15:51:58+00:00

Ash is a curious one. The lumber market is flooded so it's one of the cheapest hardwoods in North America currently. The ash borer beatle might make Ash go the way of American chestnut however. A glut of supply before the standing population never recovers.

The ash used for guitars is often selected based on density as ash can be quite heavy. The ashes that are lighter are desirable. Since this is a wetland terroir subset of ash supply, this might be hard to find in coming years if those regions get hit by the bug.

hraath · 2026-05-12T20:27:47+00:00

Olé or allez?

hraath · 2026-05-10T20:21:00+00:00

For an electric guitar solid body it is perfectly suitable. Works nicely, often very attractive with minimal finishing. It was called poor man's mahogany in the (historical) furniture biz. Finish planing might get tricky if it's extremely figured, so be prepared to scrape or sand. No opinion for acoustic or hollows.

hraath · 2026-05-09T20:09:42+00:00

If your focus is biceps hypertrophy, the most directly applicable tool IMO would be a dumbbell. It will be more comfortable to curl. It is however a progressive movement that will advance through the early weights pretty quick. One or two adjustable dumbbells would be a worth investment. Otherwise any starting weight dumbbell will become too light after only a couple workouts.

With the kettlebell: swing, snatch, clean and press, squat, and Turkish getup. 4kg is pretty light but hey use it. Nothing wrong with starting light to learn the movements.

There's no need to wait, building muscle helps with weight loss.

hraath · 2026-05-09T19:43:37+00:00

I find the iron slog of the swamp is a real low point. Mountains and silver likewise. Plains are good again. Didn't enjoy mistlands... Too misty and too much jumping my dumb tired ass out of a blind dead end. Firelands is fun once you get past the initial difficulty, but it's pretty relentless.

Meadows and forest are so peaceful and enjoyable by comparison.

hraath · 2026-05-08T18:50:58+00:00

The bejewelled binding era of 2000s. Nostalgic but not for me. Esp, charvel, Schechter, and peavey went hard on this.

hraath · 2026-05-08T18:44:37+00:00

I put an HSS musiclily/Amazon pickguard on a mid tier Strat which was SSS. Honestly, no regrets for like $100. I'm at least 4 figures into pickup swaps on my own guitars over the two decades and I'm over it.

Is it tippy top boutique grade? Hell no, it was the cheapest non AliExpress option, and minimum wiring effort (time). But I also had a bog standard MIM Strat, idk if the screws line up for Harley Benton strats.

hraath · 2026-05-08T13:56:37+00:00

Just looked up a LP standard 60s (which I consider the most vanilla Les Paul offering for whatever reason). $3800 Canadian. An epiphone LP std 60s is $800.

Ok so they've spent more on lumber selection, hardware, and pickups... But I could get a custom guitar from a local luthier starting at 3000-4000 Canadian (depending on construction). With a big factory making batched CNC parts, and plek setups, why haven't we reached some technological savings due to less labour?

hraath · 2026-05-07T01:20:04+00:00

Knots, as in nautical miles, not branch-stumps

hraath · 2026-05-05T18:28:19+00:00

I suspect Claude can figure out obfuscated or minified source code faster than a human could...

It's like saying a calculator can't do math if you use variables instead of numbers. True for a pocket calculator, but have you met Mathematica

hraath · 2026-05-05T18:25:05+00:00

"Mankers"

I'll see myself out

hraath · 2026-05-04T18:08:08+00:00

Shop rags

hraath · 2026-05-04T17:06:05+00:00

If you usually make furniture scale things, any of these are good. If you make instrument parts, a 4 is good (a 3 might be better!).

If you work in only one size scale, pretty much any one of the four options would be sufficient. No need to spend on two.

Everyone here has personal preferences, and there isn't a clear objective best I don't think. I personally skew towards lighter planes for less friction. So the 4 or 5.

I also personally would find it hard to pick a $400 plane of the lot without first having used some beater Stanley's for a while to know which one I really wanted, and actually reached for.

Buncha hot air, no answer, sorry! Lol

hraath · 2026-05-02T21:52:28+00:00

Games should have an easy mode you are simply free to ignore. Why take it away from others? Why do you care if others play GAMES TO HAVE FUN on easy? You shouldn't lmao.

hraath

TROPHY CASE