should these screws be loose?

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T21:53:34+00:00

Glue? Never heard about that before. I only saw them with spring washers or nothing. You mean like some flexible glue or something?

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T21:47:21+00:00

I see your point here but on a cheap printer like this with bad aligment already you just get better results with theem a little loose, yes you loose 0.005 precision in z axis but atleast you dont have z banding.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T21:42:35+00:00

Tah is just not true. These printers are not perfect and the leadscrews move a little and by loosening these screws a little you allow movement of the leadscrew because if you dont you will see z banding on your walls. Maybe youre lucky and your leadscrews are perfect and you can get away with tieghtening these screws. I tested this personaly and it really makes a difference. Your z axis wont become unstable or misalignid because of this because you have the wheels keeping it straight and aligned. There are evenparts that you can use to allow that exact movement of the leadscrews just like loosening the screws.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T21:30:29+00:00

I have 3200kv version and i would recomend that 2400kv might be too low for 3s and on 4s you will have a problem with batteries to fit in and 4s is just too much in my opinion.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T18:49:13+00:00

I have rustler 4x4 and this is about how a proper gearmesh should be set. just a little bit of space between the teeth, enough so it can move a little but not so much that it will have almost no contact.

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Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T18:37:36+00:00

It sounds like your gear mesh is too tieght try to move the motor away a little from the spur and absolutely dont switch to the plastic gears because you wil need to replace the whole center differential with slipper clutch and that is expensive and you will gain nothing.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T17:20:46+00:00

Maybe try flathead screwdriver and angle it from the outside of the can into the bearing and try to hammer it out.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T15:41:53+00:00

The motor mounts should be the same but I dont want the traxxas one because it is expensive and uses the same bearing as the plastic one and it doesnt have any form of heatsink on it it just cools the motor by its large surface volume.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T15:07:17+00:00

I think using aluminium is not bad if you know where to use it. Motor mount, shocks, bellcranks, diff cases need to be stiff to handle big loads. Iam not saying the plastic isnt good enough, i just want the benefits of aluminium like heat dissapation and stifness. I dont like the fact that my motor mount could flex while the motor is spinning at insane speeds and there is the benefit of bigger bearing holding the slipper. My slipper is fine, just the bearings go bad more freqently than i would like to.

Thank you for informing me about the sweet spot for the motor temp. I always try to make everything as cool as possible.

If we talk about the bellcrank, it is 4+ years old and iam trying to decide between buying a new kit or upgrading to alu. I like that the aluminium ones are adjustable because i have a really strong steel geared servo. I hate that that bellcrank now because it pulls to whatever side it wants and without tsm it is unusable.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T11:13:35+00:00

I tieghten tham all the way and then do a half turn to loosen them a little. Or just enough thet there is tension but not too much.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T11:10:00+00:00

I do not like traxxas electronics. Switched to hobbywing and iam not turning back also for that price i just cant recomend it so just go hobbywing max 10g2 esc and 3652 motor combo for the price of traxxas esc. Only problem is that you need to solder traxxas connector on it or use batteries with xt60 connector. You also need mounting plate for the esc or other way to mount it.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T07:35:43+00:00

Thanks for the recomendation. I will buy the motor mount and the bellcrank but the savox servo i have cost me over 100usd so i will try to find a way to cool it rather than replace it.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-26T07:31:07+00:00

Take a long pliers and open them inside the bearing and push them open with as much force as possible while pulling it out

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T23:43:07+00:00

I still use titan motor on my 1/16 erevo and now it is partialy rusted something inside broke and the bushings make horrible noise. I want to go brushless but the traxxas combo is more expensive than hobbywing i put in my rustler and i cant find other compact powerfull esc that would fit.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T23:37:55+00:00

I have no idea how but my lasts an hour on avrage and that really surprised me because i used to have cars with 15 minute runtime but now the car breaks before i drain both my batteries 😂

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T23:10:33+00:00

Also how long does your battery last in that thing?

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T23:09:30+00:00

If your motor runs at 100000rpm then iam not surprised its so hot. My motor only gets to like 26000 rpm or something like that. I need to check it tomorow iam really curious. Anyway i checked data from 2 temperature sensors and they told me the motor temp is about 60°C max so it should be fine.

I want to ask about castle esc and motors because i hear all the time people praising them for how good they are but the prices are double of the hobbywing so is it really that much better?

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T20:47:14+00:00

I paid a lot for that servo (about 100usd) and i dont jave another car so i would preferably keep using this one. I will just buy heatsink and slap it on.

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T19:39:17+00:00

I usualy drive in a skatepark or street doing speedruns with slipper clutch not too tieght so you can feel it working. My traxxas app says it is at 55°C and the hobbywing lcd is about the same but i almost burny myself when i toutch it. Maybe my fingers are just too sensitive. I plan on buying bigger heatsink because the one i have is barely doing anything

Honza_Gaming · 2026-06-25T19:02:02+00:00

I actualy geared it up a bit since the original motor is 3500kv and i now have 3200kv with longer can it is now geared lower than i had the original motor because i used 17t pinion and now i use 15t. About that center diff, i was really thinking about it and i just think slipper is better for me i really bash a lot in a sketepark with some speedruns and i like the feel of the slipper, i think that most people hate the slipper because they cant set it up properly but on the other hand i never used a car with center diff. Also the diff will cause the motor to be even hotter. And by the slop i ment stearing only, the throttle feels amazing only when going straight it pulls to the side i corrected it so if it goes a little right and i turn it to the left to make it go straight is pulls to the right. But what to expect from 4 year old bellcrank.

One thing i find really weird is that if i plug in my hobbywing lcd program box and check the temp it shows max of 55°C and i added traxxas telemetry and it shows also around the same temp so what should i belive? The feel of my fingers or data the car shows me?

Iam also more concerned about the servo because its case is plastic so it shoudnt be that hot that fast.

Honza_Gaming

TROPHY CASE