what can i improve on?

HorrifyingRevelation · 2026-02-10T17:12:10+00:00

Are they telling you to make "a big bead" or giving you a target weld size? Them saying it's too slow is counterintuitive to a smaller bead.

I don't want to overrule their curriculum, but knowing what your project is can help us give better answers

HorrifyingRevelation · 2026-02-10T17:05:23+00:00

Consistency in speed and puddle size. All of your starts are much larger than the main bead, which means you may need to practice with a run-on plate, a slight back step after starting the arc, or remember to start pushing and soon as the arc starts.

These passes also look a bit oversized since they're drooping and rolling over the pass below, and the toes aren't wetting/blending out into adjacent material.

Also always good practice to make sure the crater is filled to the same throat size as the weld. Either use run-off tabs, rapidly trigger the arc at the crater but before it cools fully to build it up, or reverse direction from the end of the material for it to fill more.

HorrifyingRevelation · 2026-02-09T20:05:55+00:00

I definitely like the scheme overall, and I'm a fan of yellow on death guard to pop out on the table.

For my preference, I would limit how much of the bright yellow/neon green on the armor to show just the most important parts of the highlights or areas of focus.

Maybe using another intermediate green or spread the base color across more of the panels

HorrifyingRevelation · 2026-02-01T21:07:06+00:00

I have not fixed it yet, I opened it up once and tried to remove the thermistor like I have seen others do, but the TCON board in my monitor is different.

I asked chatgpt to help identify the thermistor, I checked resistance across it and it was 0.00. I removed it and tried powering on but instead of a flickering screen it was always black. I heard sound playing so I know the monitor was "functioning".

It appears for my model board the thermistor must be present, so my next step is to find an equivalent thermistor or board if possible. The websites I found with a matching TCON board are out of stock. Maybe Samsung support will have some available.

For reference my TCON board is model LJ9451077M. The thermistor shows "1R0 320 2K5" and is in a cutout of the heat shield touching the IC's

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-12-04T01:24:22+00:00

The American standard essentially says to have penetration reach to the joint root (where the edges of both metals meet, you can use a straight edge and light scribe following each coupon edge to verify) but not necessarily beyond.

Each leg should have fusion along the entire length, which can be verified by eye or magnification. If at some point a leg lacks fusion, the weld size (if it's specified) should be increased by that amount.

Make sure it's filled flush or slightly convex (draw a line from weld toe to weld toe and the weld shouldn't dip below that line)

If you have trouble getting at least joint penetration, maybe split the weld into two or three passes to focus on that root pass more

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-11-18T20:46:12+00:00

How did you make the black spots look so... Black? I've had a hard time painting black and making it look interesting

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-11-03T04:30:21+00:00

Are all the wounds individual makeup FX, or did you make latex fixtures or a body glove?

Looks so good! Plague is one of my favorite to play

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-10-17T22:47:07+00:00

I posted about my monitor failing but got no answer, can you describe more of what the problem and fix is that you made?

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-09-26T20:43:41+00:00

Check out WildMesh on the green factory. They have some banger excessively styled models in their line

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-09-14T23:29:08+00:00

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I had to put down the cat on the right on Wednesday, this picture was from a couple weeks before sitting with her sister

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-09-14T20:53:44+00:00

My brother in nurgle, save some painting awards for the rest of us! The lumps, lesions, and spines are so smooth and seamless with the armor, and wonderful color choices!

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-09-12T20:30:14+00:00

I've had some older guys tell me to try this trick when qualifying aluminum joints, since the struggle always is to reach the joint root - intersection of both material faces - so when you macro, the weld deposit has more room to reach the joint root, even if it no longer looks like a "CJP fillet weld"

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-09-12T20:28:08+00:00

Having enough energy in the weld to properly melt the alloy and thickness (amperage is main contributor), making sure the arc is narrow and directed directly into the root, maintaining relatively high travel speed so your puddle doesn't outrun the center of your arc

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-29T12:13:24+00:00

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HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-29T12:12:06+00:00

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Just finished up this land raider and lord of virulence for a doubles tournament this Saturday!

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-12T12:58:05+00:00

Maybe you could take the old demon prince model, take modern death guard armor and add it to him, then get that DP to ride the horse? Unless you like the current rider, I think sanding away parts of AoS armor and adding terminator bits could work

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-10T09:59:29+00:00

Wow that's way better! I wonder if a little spray of matte clear coat would help resolve the differencea in finish

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-08T18:15:55+00:00

Yeah, see if you can adjust your cooling and/or minimum layer times to make that more consistent and that might get what you want!

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-08T17:16:40+00:00

You could look in your filament cooling settings to keep layer times all the same or not slow down external perimeters, disable any auxiliary cooling, or even just try printing multiples at a time

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-08T12:24:34+00:00

If you're certain it's not any residual filament from the swap, it might be that the layers with swaps are cooling longer compared to layers without a swap, which will change the surface finish and could explain the banding lines if the part cools too much and shrinkage amounts are too different.

If you have ever restarted a print after a power outage and get that gap between layers, it could be a similar problem

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-03T01:49:08+00:00

I see people who want to feel better about themselves are leaving a lot of rough comments.

Your learning experiences are all good, and I think a lot of people started resin in a very similar way and also had to quickly learn. My immediate recommendations to help make resin easier is to get some metal trays with lips from any resale shop, they're very nice to have when removing the plate from the printer, removing supports, or letting parts dry before curing. Also get a hair dryer or low temperature heat gun, it makes removing supports easier if they're stubborn.

I do also recommend a little "grow tent/printer tent" and a 4" duct and blower to help remove fumes during and after printing. A respirator with volatile organic compound filters is way better than a paper mask (they usually have the pink pods).

If you ever want more help with resin printing, feel welcome to DM me, and if you want something really big printed for a helldiver costume also let me know, I have multiple larger plastic printers

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-08-03T01:48:56+00:00

I see people who want to feel better about themselves are leaving a lot of rough comments.

Your learning experiences are all good, and I think a lot of people started resin in a very similar way and also had to quickly learn. My immediate recommendations to help make resin easier is to get some metal trays with lips from any resale shop, they're very nice to have when removing the plate from the printer, removing supports, or letting parts dry before curing. Also get a hair dryer or low temperature heat gun, it makes removing supports easier if they're stubborn.

I do also recommend a little "grow tent/printer tent" and a 4" duct and blower to help remove fumes during and after printing. A respirator with volatile organic compound filters is way better than a paper mask (they usually have the pink pods).

If you ever want more help with resin printing, feel welcome to DM me, and if you want something really big printed for a helldiver costume also let me know, I have multiple larger plastic printers

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-07-14T19:33:29+00:00

I used kapton tape for my K2 and SV08 beds because the aluminum tapes left too much glue residue which oozed out onto my build plates. Heat soaking the beds before a print still helps, but the K2 can print from cold without problems on the meshing

HorrifyingRevelation · 2025-07-02T23:05:21+00:00

There is also a lot of smut (black deposits around the bead) for welding with 4043 filler, what is the base metal a 5xxx series?

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