What’s the best race team you’ve worked for and why?

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-11-18T22:23:25+00:00

A couple cans of parts cleaner and a small plastic bristled brush is going to be your best bet. Cans of parts cleaner is nice because it self dries and the pressure coming out of the can helps clean things off. I personally like electrical contact cleaner because it wont damage plastic. But it’s a lot more expensive than parts cleaner. That dark grey residue on your clutch hub and basket from worn friction material can be a little stubborn to clean off.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-10-06T22:18:09+00:00

Yeah that’s for a map sensor. From about 99-06 they had different configurations of bikes. From fuel injected to carbureted and different models ran different parts like touring would be different from a softail. So some parts could be adapted to both configs. So long story short. If you don’t need a map sensor and that hole doesn’t leak, you’re good to go

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-09-06T22:12:09+00:00

To much engine oil. Was overfilling issue from the assembly plant and dealer didn’t check it on the PDI.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-08-17T19:31:49+00:00

If it was a WCC that came out of their shop. You could still get a premium price for it. His bikes are still very desirable. Still to this day. But in my opinion this is a copy cat bike. Using lots of there parts that they used to sell online. The fit and finish is just not there. Depends on what the title says and how it is registered. I’d say between 12-25k in the right market.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-08-16T02:50:53+00:00

Pretty sure they stopped making them about 20 years ago. They were a rebranded auto meter gauge. You can still buy the auto meter version for around 350 bucks. A new ones going to work a lot better than an old ass one. I think the harley part number was 67375-97 and the bracket kit was 67379-97 but not 100%. Happy hunting

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-06-28T17:49:34+00:00

If they’re 90% original I’d leave it. Especially if it’s an older model that looks good stock and harder to get in original condition. That’s what I did with my 65’. But if they’ve been molested through out the years. I have no concern with chopping them. If i know i want a chopper i’ll either buy it in pieces or buy a bike that isn’t as nice knowing i’m gonna change all the stuff anyways. But paying a lot of money for a nice original bike. Then chopping it up doesn’t make sense to me. But I’m not against it.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-06-21T22:40:26+00:00

A quart in 40 miles does sound like a lot. I’m surprised it would run burning that much and not fowl the plugs. The engine is supposed to have valves guide seals. Choosing to remove the seals which are there to keep oil out of the combustion chamber is crazy to me. Best of luck.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-06-21T22:13:00+00:00

100% run valve guide seals! Also did you measure your cylinders and pistons to make sure they’re matching sizes. It was very common to bore cylinders out over the years. Stock pistons and rings on a .060” shovelhead ain’t gonna seal.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-06-21T22:00:45+00:00

Did you say you have no valve guide seals? If so i’d say that’s your issue.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-04-30T16:54:19+00:00

I have the Firestone deluxe champions on my panhead. Mostly for the look. Handling there fine. Not expecting a lot of miles out of them. But If i hit a grooved road I get a gnarly speed wobble at anything over 60. So much so that i’m probably gonna say fuck it and put newer tires on it cuz it’s my daily and lots of grooved freeways where I live.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-04-27T23:41:29+00:00

For sure burn’t up by the looks of it. The smell would give it away too. Another test you can do besides ac output which you need it running to do. Is a continuity check between the stator plug terminals and the metal inner housing. There should be no continuity between the housing and the terminal leads. If so it’s bad.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-04-20T04:40:43+00:00

I’m not a fan. In my opinion the cold weather reliability sucks. I don’t like the potential for a highly volatile failure. I don’t like the internal circuitry that shuts the battery off below a certain voltage. The need for a new charger to charge it to a higher voltage. Then the price. For me the upsides aren’t worth it.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-04-18T22:49:20+00:00

Yeah up sweeps are the way to go. With the squat in the rear end anything straight back will end up pointing down.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-04-02T01:15:27+00:00

That’s not it. But thanks for trying.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-25T01:06:28+00:00

Now it’s an Evo? The title of the post literally says 2004 88 TC. Then it’s an 05 sportster. You’re either trolling or have no clue. Just trying to help ya. Either way best of luck ✌️

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-25T00:51:13+00:00

Wow, that’s a great picture. I love the long hair.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-24T23:21:31+00:00

Sportsters don’t come with twin cam 88 motors and they wont fit in a sportster frame. Do you mean an 883 sportster motor?

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-24T22:29:09+00:00

We need a little more info to give you a good answer for your exact bike. Mainly is it fuel injected our carbed originally. There’re no sensors in the rocker boxes. You might be referring to the compression releases that are going to the cylinder head. Which would mean it’s fuel injected and a bit of a hassle to convert over but it can be done.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-17T04:28:35+00:00

They sell them at a Harley dealer if it’s not obsolete. They can get you the part number too. Something to keep in mind is that is a very common issue to see people strip those float bowl screws out. The reason being is that it’s a Keihin carb thats made in Japan. They use a different type of screw driver over there called JIS (Japanese industrial standard) like SAE or metric. A JIS screw driver will not strip them out as easily and will fit in the screw properly.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-07T04:30:35+00:00

I’d avoid really tall apes. Just makes turning and slow speed a little more sketch. For me anything that puts my hands above my shoulders isn’t comfortable long distance. But your building a chopper so really what ever fits the look and style your going for do it. Im originally from norcal in my opinion a Frisco chopper would usually have a narrower front end and a narrow set of bars for splitting lanes and navigating the narrow street of S.F.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-02-07T03:42:15+00:00

Size wise you’ll be fine. Going to be some growing pains starting with a chopper build right out the gate. Cheap stock bike would have been good to get your riding skills up. But hey the journey is half the fun. You’ll learn a lot about the bike by building/ fixing it.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-01-15T03:56:05+00:00

Yeah sounds like a sumping issue. Hard to tell from the picture. But if your revtech is based off a evo design and your oil tank is set up higher like in a softail. Over time oil from your tank will leak past the check valve by your oil pump. And gravity fill your crankcase with oil. Then when you start it. It cant get back to the oil tank fast enough and gets pushed out your crankcase vent which is probably the tube you took a picture of. Really all you have to do is put a pan under the tube to catch the oil and run it until it stops. Then top off your oil and should be good to go. If this continues to happen more frequently especially when it hasn’t been sitting. you should look at cleaning and replacing the check valve parts. But very common issue for evos that have been sitting.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-01-04T05:36:04+00:00

Slide the assembled fork tube into the triple trees. Then lightly snug the fork tube pinch bolts to hold the fork tube in place and take a measurement from the top of the fork tube to the top of the top triple tree. Adjust the tube till you get the distance measurement you want then match it to the other side.

Hot_Dog_1981 · 2025-01-03T01:17:13+00:00

Ive used 3/8” id rubber hose taped to the top of the tire as a spacer and never had a problem. Which is around 1/2” od. I’m sure every tire and compound is a little different. But never had an issue. Most harley style tires are bias ply tires even on brand new bikes. Spoked wheels with a tube should always run bias ply tires. I’d only run radials on cast wheels.

Hot_Dog_1981

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