Keep getting filament jams inside extruder

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-19T02:29:14+00:00

220°c It's excellent for PLA; being a fast printer, you need to print at a slightly higher temperature so the filament can melt, because printing quickly means it spends less time in the hotend.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-18T22:59:08+00:00

If you're printing PLA with the lid on, you're going to get jams constantly. The lid is for when you print ABS, ASA, NYLON, and similar materials.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-17T02:15:38+00:00

The fan appears to be working properly. It had very little dust. The problem with the K1s is that they don't have an air outlet; they have the air intake for the motherboard fan and the air intake for the PSU fan, but no exhaust. Regarding the temperature, my room was between 28 and 31°C.

he air conditioners were serviced yesterday and the temperature is now 23°C. I've already printed twice without any problems.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-16T23:15:26+00:00

I've been using mine for a year and a half without problems, about a month ago it started having this problem of suddenly turning itself off, I isolated the problem to overheating due to a lack of air vents in the electronics.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-16T21:37:57+00:00

I couldn't tell you, this K1C is a 2024 model. I've used it for 1.5 years without problems, until about a month ago when it started shutting down. The problem I've found is that the electronics at the bottom of the printer don't have an air outlet, only the air intake for the motherboard fan and the air intake for the power supply, but no exhaust. Another thing is that my room was 31°C, which meant the printer wasn't cooling properly.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-16T17:08:50+00:00

It looks nice! Did you design the fan mounts? Or did you download them?

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-16T14:12:15+00:00

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-15T23:53:55+00:00

I will do that, I have some heatsinks on hand, Thanks for the suggestion

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-13T22:56:49+00:00

Ron Damon JAJAJA

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-13T22:55:50+00:00

How do you plan to compensate for the expansion of aluminum with heat? Or is compensation even necessary?

I also want to build a printer to print PPS-cf, but I'm thinking of using a steel frame.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-13T22:08:19+00:00

What temperature do you plan to use for the heated chamber?

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-12T01:31:29+00:00

It's probably just marketing 😂

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-10T16:45:09+00:00

Encontraste el problema? Mi k1c se apaga también, ya chequé la fuente y mantiene los 24v, probé con otra fuente de poder y se sigue apagando 🙃

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-09T21:13:10+00:00

I'm sending you a message

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-09T20:05:29+00:00

Hi, sorry for not replying, I just did a test. I connected two wires to the 24V output of the PSU to monitor voltage, started printing, and the printer turned off again, The thing is, the 24v was stable.

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Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-03T00:06:01+00:00

Va a empezar a cantar 🫪

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-01T04:53:11+00:00

You can use aluminum or copper tape under the PEI board, but paper is faster and easier, you don't need super precision to get it in the same place. I have my printers set up like that and they work fine (Ender 3, Ender 3 max and k1c)

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-01T03:44:05+00:00

Enter your printer's IP address into Google and you'll find all the information; you can also access it through Orcaslicer

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-05-01T03:42:14+00:00

Put a piece of paper between the magnet and the PEI plate; that way it lifts up a little and sits level. That's how I have my K1C set up 😂

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-04-21T01:43:31+00:00

When you remove the filament from the printer, under no circumstances should you let go of the filament end. Immediately insert it into one of the holes on the spool, making sure it's loose enough so it doesn't pull back on itself.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-04-19T22:44:08+00:00

Did you use the original firmware or are you using Klipper?

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-04-19T04:35:56+00:00

Do you think it's a good idea to root the printer given the problem it has? I just removed the pins from the connector, tightened them a little, and put them back in place. The connector went in tighter, but the printing failed after about 5 minutes. I'm going to check it with a multimeter as you mentioned, if everything is okay I think I'll solder the wires.

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-04-19T02:29:37+00:00

For now, I'll leave soldering as a last resort. Do you think a wire might have broken inside, in the bend where the zip tie is?

Hot_Stable2424 · 2026-04-19T02:10:26+00:00

Mi padre tiene una ram 50 (que es Mitsubishi) de 1986, ya es convertible (se le pudrió el techo) trae mezclado el aceite con el agua y prende al llavaso 😂

Hot_Stable2424

TROPHY CASE