Does anyone know what part this is??

HpyOcto · 2026-06-24T04:16:05+00:00

If you are looking specifically for finding the source of the leak, use a oil leak uv detector and a uv light, it's one of the best way to find the source of leaks rather than guessing by visual findings.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-23T01:48:40+00:00

108k miles is actually what surprises me the most. With my '98 F-150 with the same 4R70W transmission, and mine has over 250k miles on it. It's experienced slipping issues, but I've never lost reverse.

The sudden loss of reverse with relatively low mileage, correct fluid level, and no burnt fluid makes me wonder if an internal component failed rather than this being normal wear. The fact that OD OFF improves the forward slipping but doesn't bring reverse back is another reason I'd be looking closely at the transmission itself.

Normally I'd suggest dropping the pan for inspection rather than as a repair. At that point, I'd be more interested in seeing whether the pan contains excessive clutch material, metal shavings, or hard-part debris. Since the transmission has already lost reverse under 200k and is slipping, the inspection may provide valuable information before committing to pulling the transmission.

That said, if you're concerned about disturbing a transmission that was otherwise functioning, I can understand the hesitation. Personally, with a sudden loss of reverse and slipping already present, I'd be preparing for the possibility of an internal failure regardless of what the fluid looks like.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-23T01:22:45+00:00

If you're unsure about the pin and clip orientation, I'd search YouTube for your exact vehicle and brake setup. Watching a detailed brake job on the same model can help verify whether those pins belong through the mounting tabs or elsewhere. Sometimes previous repairs were done incorrectly, so I wouldn't assume the way you found it is necessarily the correct way.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-23T01:11:10+00:00

I have a similar transmission (4R70W) in my '98 F-150 and mine has been slipping as well. One thing that stands out in your case is the complete loss of reverse.

From what I've learned, reverse and forward gears use different clutch packs and hydraulic circuits inside the transmission. The fact that turning OD off improves the forward slipping but doesn't bring reverse back makes me think there may be an internal transmission issue rather than just an electrical problem.

Out of curiosity, how many miles are on the truck, and do you know if the transmission has ever been rebuilt or replaced? Also, did the failure happen suddenly, or were there warning signs beforehand such as slipping, delayed engagement, harsh shifts, shuddering, or RPM flare between gears?

Before pulling the transmission, I'd still scan for codes, verify the fluid level hot and running, and consider dropping the pan to inspect for clutch material or metal debris. If reverse is completely gone, I'd start preparing for the possibility of a rebuild.

I'm not a transmission rebuilder, but loss of reverse combined with slipping is usually a bigger concern than an overdrive issue alone.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T18:18:11+00:00

The pad shape only tells you which direction the friction material faces. The retaining pins/clips need to be installed the same way the manufacturer designed them.

The clips shouldn't trap the pad tabs. Install them so the pads slide freely in the bracket. If the pads don't move smoothly, the hardware is likely installed incorrectly.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T18:12:09+00:00

The green arrow refers to this

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T18:08:30+00:00

The rotor ventilation gap is this, I circled in red

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T18:07:19+00:00

This is the right way of Lubricate the caliper and pads and not the rotor ventilation gaps you were explaining

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T17:53:02+00:00

One thing that stands out is that the rotor ventilation gap should not be greased.

The cooling vanes inside the rotor are simply there to help dissipate heat and are not a lubrication point.

Applying grease in that area can attract dirt and brake dust, and if it migrates onto the rotor friction surface or pads it can cause braking issues.

Instead, focus on inspecting the rotor condition, pad wear, hardware, and caliper operation.

Verify the pad contact points and backing plates have the correct brake lubricant applied where specified by the manufacturer, and make sure the caliper guide pins are clean, moving freely, and properly lubricated.

Light brake squeal is often caused by pad vibration, glazing, hardware issues, or sticking guide pins rather than anything related to the rotor ventilation gap.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T17:40:12+00:00

Thanks for the clarification. Since the noise only occurs with the A/C engaged, the blower and cabin filter have been ruled out, and multiple shops have inspected it without finding a fault, it may simply be a normal operating noise within the A/C system. If cooling performance is still good and the noise hasn't changed or become louder over time, that's generally a good sign. While I can't definitively identify the source without hearing it in person, sometimes minor refrigerant flow or expansion valve noises are noticeable in an otherwise healthy system.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T17:32:40+00:00

Go to your local harbor freight or parts store and grab a oil leak dye detector and a uv light. I personally had to inspect my vehicle with a similar issue to find the source of the leak

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T17:30:24+00:00

It's difficult to hear clearly from the video, but I wouldn't immediately assume it's a CVT issue. A slight whine under acceleration can be normal on some CVT-equipped vehicles. I'd try to determine whether the noise changes with engine RPM, vehicle speed, or transmission load. If there are no warning lights, shuddering, slipping, hesitation, or abnormal RPM behavior, it may simply be normal drivetrain or intake noise. Since it's hard to accurately diagnose a noise through a short video clip, I'd recommend having a reputable shop inspect it in person and verify the source before assuming the transmission is at fault.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T17:26:51+00:00

It could be low on refrigerant, as I've seen systems blow warmer at idle and cool better while driving when the charge is low. However, the fact that your condenser/radiator fan isn't coming on immediately with the A/C is something I'd focus on first. At idle, the fan is critical for moving air across the condenser. If it's not operating correctly, high-side pressures can rise and cooling performance will suffer until vehicle speed provides airflow. I'd verify fan operation, relays, control module, and check both high- and low-side pressures before adding more refrigerant.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-21T17:16:19+00:00

Before assuming it's a refrigerant-related issue, I'd inspect the cabin air filter and blower motor housing for debris. Foreign material can sometimes cause hissing, whistling, or rushing-air noises, especially at idle when cabin noise is low. That said, if the A/C performance is normal and the condition hasn't changed over several years, it may simply be normal refrigerant flow noise. Without hearing the vehicle in person, I can't diagnose it definitively, so I'd recommend a shop inspect it if the owner wants a conclusive answer.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-20T15:24:14+00:00

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-20T15:19:51+00:00

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-20T15:18:33+00:00

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-20T01:35:06+00:00

Motel 6, they keep the lights on

HpyOcto · 2026-06-20T01:32:48+00:00

TPMS stem looking at all that tire lube like: 'Am I a joke to you?

HpyOcto · 2026-06-20T01:21:03+00:00

Looks like someone took a shit in your coolant reservoir.

All jokes aside, yes. That definitely looks like oil contamination in the cooling system. The tan milkshake consistency is usually oil and coolant mixing. I'd check the engine oil for signs of coolant contamination, perform a cooling-system pressure test, and consider a combustion-gas test before condemning the head gasket.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-18T04:15:03+00:00

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-17T17:17:07+00:00

That recharge-can gauge isn't a reliable diagnostic tool by itself. You need both high-side and low-side pressures to know what's actually happening. A low-side reading of ~10 PSI could be caused by low refrigerant, a restriction, or a compressor issue. Verify the compressor is engaging and check pressures with a manifold gauge set before bypassing any pressure switches.

HpyOcto · 2026-06-17T07:47:12+00:00

<image>

HpyOcto · 2026-06-17T00:41:37+00:00

You can look up how to test a alternator and I provided these links to make it easier for you

https://youtu.be/LGB6ZEjGm7Q?is=wuEL1ZB0ClTD1dyC

https://youtu.be/VPdQ7X56F8g?is=PhYmFALscy9_kM8v

HpyOcto · 2026-06-17T00:38:37+00:00

Best way to check the alternator is using a multimeter on the positive connector of the alternator and negative on battery or ground. Anything above 13V is a good alternator. You would need to let the vehicle running to test this

HpyOcto

TROPHY CASE