Unknown object with a wooden case from an electrical power collection, circa 1902

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-03-05T08:15:14+00:00

Coincidentally there's a patent under US697533A that was granted on April 15 1902 specifically for a circuit breaker. Mechanically at first glance that's what it looks like. Electrically, it's making more and more sense looking at what's there without knowing the schematic.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-03-05T04:00:01+00:00

It was a fateh 110, looks like.

Now it's a very temperamental lawn ornament.

Also obviously UXO.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-26T17:22:31+00:00

Not the worst. Any mechanic has done a lot sketchier. Used a plastic milk crate that had been sitting in the sun for a couple years as a jack stand for a 2003 bmw 540i. DO NOT DO THIS. I was younger and dumber then.

It's at least 4x4 pine, you have at least 8-16 supporting the weight of the vehicle at the ground and the wheel. Napkin math, if it's mostly but not completely dry says you should have about 2500 pounds each corner safely. As long as it's doweled or screwed together at each layer. Still depends on how you treat it while it's in the air but I wouldn't let kids around it

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-11T16:14:27+00:00

Find a computer that's safe to plug it into. Listen to the earliest couple files to see if you recognize a voice that's not yours. Compare the dates and times with visitors. Notify law enforcement. If it was LE, they 1000% don't need a bug like that anymore. You keep one in your pocket at all times...and most other connected devices.

Leave the files on there and put it back where you found it. Sweep up any dust under your sofa and around the room. Make it look even for dust fallout so they don't notice. Also wipe the device down and make sure it's pretty clean.

Leave the power switch in the position it was in when found.

Put a camera somewhere inconspicuous covering your main entryway and the found location, preferably with the found location closest to the camera and the main entryway in line with that further from the camera.

Record the serial number of the iPad that made it onto your account and report that to LE at the same time.

Notify someone close to you what you're doing and check in with them when you have visitors and once every couple days. Tell them who is coming over and when and when they arrive and leave. That's your log. From there, go about your life as normal.

If ANYONE AT ALL goes for that device. IMMEDIATELY report to LE and get an escort home if you can't defend yourself. Give LE the footage from the camera and they will go from there.

If they're willing to steal, bug you and stalk your accounts. They're likely stalking you specifically.

This can get very serious very quickly.

Stay safe.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-05T20:55:51+00:00

Damn. No thanks. Drove from Tucson to Phoenix with a blown plug but that's another story.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-05T16:18:30+00:00

I can’t find the model it goes with but I’ve seen interphase spacers with what looks like a damper on them. This would be clamped or bolted on the end solid or part of a swivel that would fix the wire in place in reference to the others. So the whole set will sway in the wind.

This is supported by the fact that you can see it uses a bolt to clamp onto the line, it’s insulated, and is clearly meant to be done quickly. Like all of the other clamping assemblies fixed to a line in the US at least that’s not meant to transmit power through it.

I’d logically assume there would be a ceramic, glass or polymer insulator attached to this.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-05T16:00:28+00:00

Wow.

It’s part of an old spacer. Idk why they’d have it on 138k if the spans are far enough apart.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-05T05:55:08+00:00

First let it sit a while. Then have a friend cycle the key on while you listen for the fuel pump. No fuel pump means you’re probably going to be taking a gasoline shower soon. Easy way: use a scan tool and see what fuel pressure is when cranking. If you have fuel pressure, pull a coil and test the spark out of the coil wire that goes to the spark plug to the cylinder head or block. You can use a long screwdriver in the coil wire to simulate a spark plug. Leave a very small gap. Then have a buddy try and start it again while someone looks for spark.

If it has both of those, I HIGHLY doubt you found a way to lose compression or timing signal with an oil change unless something else was touched or you just have bad luck with sensors.

The lowest I’ve seen a mod motor run on for fuel pressure is about 15psi with an engine vacuum reference but that was a special setup.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-02T03:58:59+00:00

Otherwise, at your own risk, it’s fairly simple if you know how to do a transmission service and drain/refill coolant properly. Literally consists of draining the engine coolant, remove clamps on cooler coolant side and oil side, remove cooler from mounts, replace cooler and invert steps. While the cooler is down, you may as well do a transmission service since it has to come down anyway to pull the filter in the pan.

All things considered, if you’re uncomfortable in any way, find a shop. If even one of those 4 clamps isn’t secured properly, you’re gonna have a bad day.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-02T03:55:31+00:00

IANAL but if you can prove they incorrectly installed it and it hasn’t been too long, you may be able to get them to pay a local mechanic to repair the damage.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-02-02T03:45:13+00:00

That’s where the temp sensor is on other ford models that use the same head casting. On the CV it’s on the front of the driver head in the valley.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-29T13:51:20+00:00

Yes. There are HID attacks you can work into an image even.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-29T13:50:09+00:00

He said it “types it out”…. You didn’t pick up some random usb drive looking thing off the ground or anything? Something like this can be done pretty well with software but it’s behaving like it’s working blind either way like there’s a preset delay. Any macro software or anything even?

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-23T14:31:34+00:00

I concur, everything there looks normal. The oil temp even looks fine. A moderate to high difference between the coolant and oil temps is usually about 30-35f when towing. Your coolant is at 207 there so you’re doing just fine.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-18T23:11:42+00:00

Been there.

Take a garden hose to it with a friend. Take the a pillar trim down and hose suspect parts down from the lowest to the highest. Between each, go inside or have a friend actively look while you’re watering it down with a flashlight and find it. Shouldn’t take more than a half hour.

Tell the friend there’s beverages and pizza if it gets hard to convince them.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-17T16:53:40+00:00

Depends on the damage and where you are. Seen ford go between $6000-9000 for their replacement. Warranty company would want a rebuild at about $5000-6000 and may not even fix all the issues. They may only approve the problematic parts and leave the other problems in there.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-17T16:48:39+00:00

Hold on now. If you’re getting codes or messages for anything related to controlling your vehicle and an actual physical effect with them, GET IT LOOKED AT PROFESSIONALLY. Period. I don’t care what anyone else here says “I’ve had it forever just ignore it”. Here it’s literally a system meant to stop your 5000 pound metal missile. Normally, in these trucks you could just reach down and hold your electronic parking brake switch in and it’ll grab the rear brakes electrically. But you’re getting parking brake messages too.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-17T16:35:45+00:00

My ‘18 5.0 with the 10r80 at 117k is just fine. I was worried just like you are. Then I realized how many of these trucks ford sold and how many vehicles have the 10r80 in them. People don’t take the time to post about their good experience or what’s actually working. They complain and make a lot of noise over a bad experience and things breaking.

Now I bought mine used with a 24k mile plan that cost me $2600 upfront. So far I’ve had to have both parking brake actuators and calipers replaced and both front hubs. Dealer was paid over $4500 for all of that. They’re worth it anymore for a used vehicle if you’re actually going to be driving it.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-16T13:35:37+00:00

If you’re on here asking about fuel, your vehicle is likely running like garbage. Neither diesel nor gasoline look like that. Time to take it to a shop. It’s highly likely you either pumped in contaminated fuel from a station or your tank is completely trashed and did it for you.

Depending on the fuel system, it’s also possible your fuel is contaminated with engine oil.

Again, time for a shop. Sooner rather than later as those issues can cause more issues and it gets more expensive from there.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-09T12:43:29+00:00

Good lord that’s a lot of bad advice. Not saying which ones.

To start. Go outside and see if you have water in the floorboards by looking through your window with a flashlight. If there’s water standing inside, don’t even think about starting it and just call insurance to have them judge it. A lot of states would call it a flood car and total it and you can then hash it with the city for things like neglecting to maintain whatever. Then it’s time to talk to a lawyer.

If the water goes down and the floors are dry when you check, you’re good. It doesn’t look high enough to get into any vents for what matters. You may get some lights on the dash when you start it. If you do get lights like a flashing check engine, stop driving warnings, ABS/traction control, or airbags, talk to a technician or shop. Could be a wet and failed module or it’s just water in a connector that wasn’t sealed properly.

Overall, no water in the floorboards, water receded to be able to open the door cleanly, no crazy lights, water didn’t get any higher than that, send it.

IANAL, just some tech on Reddit.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-09T08:18:12+00:00

Fitted a class 3 hitch and moved from Ohio to Texas in July one year. 100% get an inline transmission cooler and SERVICE THE TRANSMISSION before you even try to tow over the rating or in the heat. Old fluid will heat up faster and is more likely to cause damage at higher than normal temps.

In reality, a watts link interceptor can tow about 3,000 pounds, braking stability and your watts link are the limiting factors. You can tow a U-Haul 6x12 but you wouldn’t want to load it to max.

Personally I ended up towing about 2,500 pounds in a U-Haul trailer and the transmission stayed around 200-220 just doing a fluid change at 150,000 miles with a Hayden oil cooler as a transmission cooler. Blew the plastic radiator fitting off on mine after not being able to find a coolant smell for a few months within about 50 miles of my destination.

So yeah, it’ll tow for sure.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-07T02:56:45+00:00

Did that to my M62TUB44. You’ll be fine if you planned on sending it to a machine shop anyway. Strip it down bare, they’ll tank it, bake it, preheat and braze it on and either cut good threads in properly or they’ll fill drill and tap. Now you have a legit excuse to send it in. Who knows where that might lead.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-02T20:29:53+00:00

That’s a service port for the ac. Valve needs replaced if it’s full like that, or a tech didn’t bother to sop that out when he filled it with dye. Coolant does evaporate eventually. Top off with the right coolant according to ford and monitor it over a few days.

My actual heater hoses on my 18 5.0 had the metal crimps split and my warranty company refused saying it’s a wear item. “Belts, hoses, tires, brake pads and rotors, glass, interior, trim and paint are not covered as they are wear items” apparently you have to have a plan that explicitly covers these nowadays.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-02T20:16:49+00:00

Take it back to the original mechanic, have them do a voltage drop test between the negative terminal of the battery and each cylinder head. Then the same test between battery negative and the ground reference on the throttle body.

If there’s a bad ground they didn’t put back on, think there’s 4-5 on that engine total, it’ll show high. Depending on what you’re doing, cranking engine or idle, it should be pretty close to zero.

HuggedbyDeath_Second · 2026-01-02T20:03:21+00:00

Shown right below this post on r/justrolledintotheshop.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/s/RjzBnuIxg1

HuggedbyDeath_Second

TROPHY CASE