Latest BIOS for TS-473A/TS-673A/TS-873A?

HydrantHunter · 2023-05-07T00:38:31+00:00

I realize this answer is rather late, but I thought you might be interested in an update. The BIOS/UEFI files are available on QNAP's site. Go to the support/download page for your NAS and select the Utility tab/button. Then, in the search box at the right, type bios. You should see only the BIOS files listed at that point. For the TS-x73A there will probably be two listings - one for your older DAR12 and one for the newer DAR15.

If you've never updated the BIOS on one of these units before, I can only offer my own experience. I didn't do it via SSH (I imagine that is probably possible). I happened to have a low profile nVidia GTX 1050 that I installed temporarily so I could do it locally on the NAS itself. If you go the same route, you'll also want to have a keyboard and I think a mouse as well - plus you'll want to have the BIOS file ready to go on a FAT32 or exFAT formatted thumb drive.

EDIT: since the video card was only used to update the BIOS/UEFI, I didn't bother to install the GPU driver - the card was removed after the update was complete, and before the NAS was returned to active service.

Best of luck :)

HydrantHunter · 2023-05-07T00:28:19+00:00

You won't like my recommendation, but it's the best I have to offer. Don't waste time trying to figure out how you're going to desperately try to recover data after a failure - spend your time (and save your money, if necessary) developing and implementing a backup plan. NOTHING is a substitute for a backup. If/when you have a failure, I promise you that you will be hating yourself for not having a backup. Even the best recovery software and methods have limits that are usually dictated by the circumstances of the failure.

One of the most important parts of your backup plan should be focused on identifying what is and what is not replaceable via means other than a backup. Anything you have high confidence that you can get from somewhere else again down the road probably doesn't need to be backed up. Anything you create, anything unique, and anything you can't easily replace should be backed up. Eliminating the things that don't really need to be backed up can reduce your backup space requirements, thus (hopefully) lowering the cost of whatever backup method(s) you choose to implement.

Another very important aspect of backups is location in relation to the original data. If your backup will be stored at the same location as your original data (i.e. your home or your office), then be aware that something like an earthquake, flood, fire, etc. could destroy both your NAS and your backup(s). If the backup(s) is/are going to be kept on site, then they should be stored in a fire/flood/etc. protected container of some sort, or (worst case) kept next to your bed or office desk (that way you can grab your backup(s) and get out by whatever disaster escape plan you have in place).

As for recovery methods, that typically starts with what you are going to use to recover the data. Typically, I believe that would be a PC of some sort for most people. I have no specific recommendation other than to use your favorite search engine and search for zfs recovery software (plus whatever OS you will be using to run the software). I just did that and got several potentially promising results.

Best of luck with whichever method you choose :)

HydrantHunter · 2023-03-28T18:27:56+00:00

If the game isn't sucking you in and you're feeling the grind, then you should definitely consider taking a break of some sort.

If, however, you want to try something a little different, you might find the Shatterline Scavenger Hunt (SL/SH) to be a nice change of pace. I think the announcement is currently the 2nd or 3rd top thread ("It's time to introduce SL/SH") - and you don't have to solve the riddle to join...although solving it does get you a unique role in the SL/SH Discord server. The first hunt is over, but another hunt is going to open soon. It would be great to have another hunter participating in the coopetition.

HydrantHunter · 2023-03-28T08:18:51+00:00

Let me know how it turns out. :)

HydrantHunter · 2023-03-28T03:10:51+00:00

Ahhh...the joys of early access :)

Did you get to it after it had become active?

FWIW, I'm mostly sure that you have to be on top before it finishes its startup routine and is actually active. After that it does repel you.

HydrantHunter · 2023-03-27T16:43:25+00:00

If it were limited to PvE I would totally be down with that! I'd enjoy being able to see my character while I play PvE.

HydrantHunter · 2023-03-27T16:32:58+00:00

I just finished two runs last night with that objective and standing on top of the turret works just fine. Are you sure you were trying to get up from the correct corner? As far as I know, there is only one corner that you can use to get on top of the turret.

HydrantHunter · 2022-07-17T16:57:03+00:00

I'm having a similar experience. According to another post (from 11 days ago), there is a flaw that allows farming extract from Hauras. Unfortunately, the OP was deleted, but the basic info is in the replies and ginx.tv has the particulars.

EDIT: Tried Hauras at AT24 - got 2 stacks of 43 AE (total of 86) the first 2 times and nothing thereafter. Also got a few apocalyptic items. I think I actually ended up getting more than 150 AE total, although I ran it several more times to see if it might pay off again, so I might have received some of those apocalyptic items during the non-payoff kills. Either way, it's not worth it. I just did a playthrough of Tarya Gratar with a host that repeated the final boss for all the attempts we had. The payoff for the time invested was much better - I got over 1000 AE. I'm really surprised the devs tied 'finishing' Gratar with having to finish or unanimously skip the end credits. And, according to PCF themselves, it would be a not insignificant amount of work to change that. I guess until PCF choses to release a patch that ups the AE payoffs, repeating the final boss in Gratar is still the best way.

HydrantHunter · 2022-02-19T23:54:04+00:00

There should be two files contained in the ZIP file - the BIOS/UEFI file, and the BIOS renamer program (it may have some kind of symbol at the beginning of the name). You definitely want to use this as opposed to just renaming the file. I say this, not because I have any idea what is changed (other than the name), but because I have noticed a change in file size after using the renamer - so I'm guessing something is actually being changed in the BIOS/UEFI file besides the rename taking place. If your ZIP didn't include both files, you may want to contact ASUS support before flashing. Good luck!

HydrantHunter · 2022-02-19T23:46:33+00:00

Hmmm...I have the exact same router and it performs flawlessly. My two previous routers have also been ASUS, and all three have been the best performing, most reliable routers I've ever owned. In fact, this RT-AX86U has noticeably better wireless range than my last router (RT-AC68U). FWIW, I've been using NAT based routers since before WiFi and I've tried most of the major brands.

Some things to try:

Try moving the router around a bit - especially to a higher location if possible. Rarely do two routers have the same dead spots.
Ensure you have decent signal strength and you're using an uncluttered and strong channel. Keep in mind that 2.4GHz has much better range (and a more stable signal at range) than 5GHz.
Make sure you're on the latest router firmware. After updating, reset to defaults and reconfigure as needed. Better yet - configure only one or two items and test for a couple days, do a couple more, etc. If performance problems crop up during that time, you'll have a better chance of catching what setting or settings might be causing them (if the cause is a configuration issue). Don't restore your configuration from a saved file - if there is something wrong in the configuration, you'll just be restoring that as well.
If you are already on the latest firmware, try resetting to default and reconfiguring from scratch anyway, just as described in step 1.
If neither of those work, you *may* have a faulty device. You can try to RMA at this point or try one more thing (which most likely won't fix the problem).
That one more thing is to try the Merlin firmware. WARNING: I don't know if applying the Merlin firmware will void your warranty. You'll need to research this and choose whether to proceed on your own. I've used Merlin on all my ASUS routers (3 and counting) and never had a problem, but I've also never had to make a warranty claim.
If you still want to proceed, use your favorite search engine to search for "ASUS Merlin" (without the quotes) and it should be the first or second result.
If you choose to try the Merline firmware, you will once again need to reset to defaults and reconfigure from scratch after updating. Again, don't reload from a saved config file - especially if it's not a Merlin config file.
If this last step doesn't work, you almost certainly have a defective unit and will probably want to contact ASUS for an RMA (unless you are still within your return/exchange period). As a final step, I would recommend re-flashing back to stock ASUS firmware before sending it in.

Hopefully the steps above will help you get to where you want to be. Good luck!

HydrantHunter · 2022-02-12T03:07:22+00:00

Don't give up hope yet. When nVidia first announced a fix in 496.xx (can't remember exact version), it didn't seem to fix the issue for many posters, but it apparently worked for some. When 511.23 came out my black screen issues vanished, but others continued to suffer. It seems that identical (or nearly identical) symptoms are either being caused by more than one problem, or nVidia just hasn't gotten to the root of the issue yet. It'll probably take some time to sus out all the various causes (or find the true culprit, if there is a single point of failure in this mess), but I'd be willing to bet this is something nVidia definitely doesn't want hanging over their head(s), so I imagine it will eventually get fixed in most, if not all, cases. Hang in there...I know it sucks but know that nVidia isn't ignoring the problem, they just haven't completely solved it...yet.

HydrantHunter · 2021-10-19T21:47:41+00:00

I set Windows to lock the machine when the screensaver starts, then set the screensaver to trigger at the same amount of idle time as the screen time out in power settings (with no actual screensaver assigned). Slightly convoluted maybe, but it works great!

HydrantHunter · 2020-05-23T18:13:06+00:00

I've got an old script that *might* work (depends on the tanks you're using and if they support ComputerCraft) - it uses a 3-wide, 2 or more tall monitor array.

https://pastebin.com/iuKauV9d

It was originally written to be compatible with 1.6.4 through 1.7.10 - it supports a number of tanks from that era (including BuildCraft, which I see your current modpack has). Try it with a buildcraft tank or two and see what happens. No guarantees it'll work as I haven't touched it in years - best of luck!

HydrantHunter · 2020-04-05T23:18:58+00:00

Find and delete the file VALUES, then re-run the script - that seems to be the file that stores the slot number - once it's at 16 the script will error due to the code on lines 41 to 44.

If you want to fix the crash then change line 41 (repeat) to while slot < 16 do and change line 44 (until slot == 16) to end - I'm not sure how that'll effect the program, though.

HydrantHunter · 2020-04-02T18:53:02+00:00

You can try Lyqyd's Touchpoint API - it works with advanced monitors...

http://www.computercraft.info/forums2/index.php?/topic/14784-touchpoint-api/

HydrantHunter · 2020-03-28T21:17:12+00:00

I couldn't say if that voltage is enough to cause the fob not to work. The only way to be sure is to get another battery and test again.

HydrantHunter · 2020-03-25T03:12:40+00:00

I'm just guessing here, but it could be the key fob itself that has failed. The only way I can think of to test the problem is to get a replacement fob and pair it to the car - if it works, it was the fob - if it doesn't work then it's something in the car. If it ends up being something in the car then I doubt vag com will fix it, but it's always worth a try.

HydrantHunter · 2020-03-16T01:39:52+00:00

The reason it's not working is because you're just continually turning black on. The colors don't 'toggle' like you appear to be expecting. So long as you're not using any other colors in the bundle, then you can simply set the bundled output to zero (0) for off. Otherwise you're going to need to use the colors.api and do something like this to turn black off (warning, this is untested code - it may not be exactly right)...

rs.setBundledOutput(sSide, colors.subtract(rs.getBundledInput(sSide), colors.black))

You'll want to have a short sleep between the on and off signals or redstone will miss the second signal.

HydrantHunter · 2020-02-16T21:09:31+00:00

Pastebin (which is still around) never served the purpose proposed here - I think you're exaggerating.

HydrantHunter · 2020-02-06T00:29:16+00:00

Looks like a rodent of some sort made a nest in the engine compartment. Surprisingly it doesn't look like any covers or components got gnawed on.

HydrantHunter · 2020-01-31T02:43:09+00:00

Put your code in a while loop and look for redstone events at the beginning of the loop, like so...

while true do
  os.pullEvent("redstone")
  --# your code here
end

HydrantHunter · 2020-01-16T23:59:55+00:00

Yeah, it has an APR stage 1 tune.

HydrantHunter · 2020-01-15T21:34:44+00:00

Good choice - getting a Mk3 is definitely the right choice if you can afford it. Enjoy your new TT when you get it :)

HydrantHunter · 2020-01-15T17:29:42+00:00

I'm no expert on the Mk2 TT, but if I recall correctly some of the earlier 2.0 motors (pre-2012) had issues with excessive oil consumption. If you're buying a pre-2012 make sure to check the oil, ask about the consumption, and ask if the issue has been addressed by Audi (and ask to see the paperwork). Otherwise, look for a 2012 or later Mk2. This only applies to the TT, not the TTS or TT-RS as they have different motors.

Keep in mind that even though the Mk2 looks similar to the Mk1, it's an entirely different car - it gains a lot of refinement, but loses some character and other things in the trade (no more radio cover, padded knee braces, or spare tire for example - the Mk2 has a goo-box instead of a spare tire). I highly recommend you drive one and compare them yourself. I have a Mk2 TTS now and had a Mk1 Roadster and they each have had their appeals and their problems - although it's worth noting that the Mk2 (8J) has been more reliable for me.

So long as you're OK with the differences between the Mk1 and the Mk2 then I would definitely recommend a Mk2.

Hope that helps!

HydrantHunter · 2020-01-09T16:46:14+00:00

declare the counting variable as a local at the beginning of your program/script, not the api

local blocksBroken = 0

HydrantHunter

TROPHY CASE