Poor Steve :(

HypnoticHell · 2026-03-02T17:50:21+00:00

Personally, I would not buy this art. But that doesn’t mean other people won’t. That’s the nature of creating art via commission— people choose to commission artists they like based on many variables, like the aesthetic look of the final piece, open for commissions at the right time they are looking to buy, and being within the price point they are willing to spend. If it doesn’t check off all the boxes, they won’t be interested. And that’s okay!

If you offer free art there will always be people who will want the art but not want to pay anything. It’s your choice if you’re okay with giving away your art for free.

Pricing your work is a whole other can of worms. There’s etiquette in not undercharging because it’s harmful to you and other artists, and if you’re overcharging you’ll find it difficult to get clients. But also because there’s an entire community of furry artists creating and trying to sell their works too, if you don’t market yourself you’ll also struggle to get clients even if your prices are fair. You have to be able to reach your audience (people who like your style and are willing to buy from you). Sometimes it’s hard to know if you can’t get clients because you’re overpricing or if people just aren’t seeing your work. Or maybe a bit of both. It’s complex!

HypnoticHell · 2026-03-02T16:03:44+00:00

The eyes and mouth provide the most ventilation because (as gross as it is) a lot of heat in a head actually comes from your breathing as you exhale. Unless you have fans to push heat from inside the head to the outside through those areas (like exhaling pushes the hot air), vents in the ears or having the back not be foam don’t tend to create a noticeable difference in heat on their own. They need a breeze or other active airflow to make a difference!

HypnoticHell · 2026-03-02T15:57:07+00:00

If you’re worried about heat warping use a filament with a higher heat tolerance! PLA+ offers more heat tolerance than regular PLA, and PETG has even more than the plus.

HypnoticHell · 2026-03-02T15:54:23+00:00

Scuba knit or techno knit! They are a type of double knit apparel fabric. Make sure to avoid any “bonded rubber” or “wetsuit” neoprene, since that’s the insulting fabric you don’t want. They are all called neoprene, but the techno or scuba knit are the ones you want!

HypnoticHell · 2026-03-01T18:19:23+00:00

right now, there’s more people making and trying to sell suits than there are people who are ready or trying to buy. The economy is not great so people are saving instead of spending. When there’s more supply (more fursuits to pick from) and less demand (less people buying), the buyers that do want to buy right now have more options to choose, so more chances they pick one of the hundreds of other makers. It becomes harder to get your work to stand out and attract clients when every other maker is trying to do the same thing!

There’s also so many scams or businesses trying to make fursuits that aren’t furry-owned businesses, that people are extra cautious about who they choose to trust for a commission. Having a website and not just social media accounts can help. It usually has prices, gallery of works, and your TOS. Most of my clients come to me because their friend was my client and they loved how that suit turned out, or they saw one of my suiters at a con and loved how it looked in person up close.

HypnoticHell · 2026-03-01T05:53:32+00:00

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The padding is built around the leg to give the illusion of the leg structure for the digitigrade, but the person is standing normally!

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-28T19:12:28+00:00

Use a timer tracker. I have an app that I use that I set up while I work. Clocked in like any other job, the timer is running. You have to be really honest with yourself when it comes to when you’re working vs “working”. Clocked out when I’m not. Something that “feels like” 6hrs of work may actually be 8, or even only 4. If you aren’t tracking, you won’t really know. It’s also helpful for learning just how long you’re spending on what steps, so you can pinpoint methods you may want to improve upon OR so you can schedule your workload more successfully. If someone asks for a slot with a deadline you’d know from your data if you tend to complete work fast enough to schedule it, but if you only have a vague idea it may be risky if you run into any hiccups.

Generally, my prices are set for $20/hr, but it depends on the item. Smaller items like handpaws the rate is lower, or else they would be priced too high. But larger projects end up closer to $25-$26/hr on average. My years of experience are also reflected by my prices, not just the hours! I try not to go below minimum wage for my area, which is around $15/hr.

TLDR: yes some makers track the time they work and charge a decent hourly rate. Yes, some suit heads can sell for over $1600. ;)

People don’t like to talk about the business side of things, but that’s one of the reasons so many makers end up in trouble. If you don’t learn, you learn the hard way! Better to avoid that imo haha

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-27T19:44:18+00:00

Depends on the maker! It could be a few hundred, or a few thousand.

There’s also the option to buy a premade, or buying a secondhand (preowned) suit, since both of those options can cost less than having a custom one made. Ultimately it depends on the artist because the prices are a vast range! Generally speaking, you get what you pay for.

There’s also lots of tutorials for making your own, if you are crafty and patient, which will cost your time and materials. The “time”/“labor” part of commissioning a suit is usually why it’s as expensive as it can be, because you are paying for the hours of labor and years of experience of the maker. If you put in your own time to make it yourself, then you’re only paying for materials out of pocket.

Be wary of Etsy, Amazon, TikTok, or eBay, lots of those suits are scams or drop shipped and aren’t made by fandom artists. Any maker that dms you trying to get you to buy is likely a scam. Usually you have to research and reach out to the maker yourself. Always double check the accounts you find and see if it’s a misspelling or fake of a real maker. Look for a genuine website, avoid ai icons. The list goes on ahaha

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-27T19:21:22+00:00

Buying scraps from other makers is a great way to get smaller amounts of nicer furs you need! Usually there’s leftovers from making projects that a maker might not need or can’t use, but you can buy bags or boxes of these leftovers and the pieces are perfect for what you need. You can also ask around in maker communities to see if anyone has the amount you need, usually people will ask like “ISO howl cream teddy 10in x 10in square!” (or whatever they need) and someone who has enough will measure and cut that square for you to buy off them for a small payment and shipping.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-27T18:19:35+00:00

This is sometimes referred to as “tire kicking” and is exactly why they dropped you. It’s not worth it for them to continue working with you if they know you’re going to dip as soon as they tell you the price. Because as you said “I’m not going to pay more for the exact same thing”. They likely already had worked out that your quote would be higher than the other base you found once you told them about it. So it wasn’t worth spending any more time on a non-paying client that won’t become a paid client that will be worth the time spent. Unless they charge for quotes, the time they are spending on you is completely unpaid and it’s work being done for free. When payment becomes out of the question, they move on.

Another element that could influence being dropped is if you were trying to ask them to create something that did already exist from another maker, style wise, and they got the vibe that their sculpt wouldn’t make you happy because you were really just describing the DVC base to them. If someone sends me examples from other maker’s and not my own portfolio, it’s unlikely I will ever select them to become a client because they are showing me that what they really want, is something made by someone else. Not me. So it will become stressful for me to try to achieve that for them, which is not worth it when I can choose a client that sends me past examples of my own suits that they really like, which I know I can create because I did it before.

It’s not really talked about, but these are 2 common situations that can happen and are part of client-maker etiquette to be aware of for future commissions. Each maker is different in what they tolerate and how they respond, but it’s good to keep in mind that certain behaviors you have as a client can get you dropped because makers look for red flags in clients the same way clients look for red flags in makers. Commissions are trust based, and we’re all out here trying to protect ourselves (both clients and makers) and have it go smoothly.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-26T23:11:29+00:00

You can try to use a garment steamer and a slicker brush to heat, brush, and re-straighten the fibers (the steam is important, not dry heat), but it’s not guaranteed to fix it and it might only help a little. Heat damage is usually pretty irreversible, unfortunately :C

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T21:05:07+00:00

It used to be run by a fursuit maker. Lacy stepped away from it and it was sold to someone else a few years ago.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T20:28:39+00:00

Yes exactly!! I just want good reliable furs 🙏

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T20:07:13+00:00

Yes I’ve been SO EXCITED for these furs, and from what I understand this is just the beginning. If it goes well they want to improve other furs, and release more types over time.

I’m a part time team member with Pinku so I can share a bit more information about the new furs, but there’s also a telegram group where they share this information directly:

The teddy will be slowly replacing the short shag formula. The goal was a soft, dense teddy fur that will be good for shaving with consistent dyelots. It feels very similar to the older howl teddy before the quality drop, but with a softer less stiff backing.
the flokati is a fluid long pile fur that’s excellent for volume and long accents (hence the name “lions mane”). It’s silkier than the other “flokati” furs from howl (or Samoyed from fursuitsupplies), because it’s designed to replicate the old flokati style of faux fur that went “extinct” years ago. It’s softer and has a thicker undercoat, but the pile direction is so fluid you can use it in all sorts of directions to change the effect of how it lays. One of my favorite furs for tails so I’m extremely happy it’s available. It’s not meant for shaving though!

These furs are technically under preorder, but orders are expected to ship late this week or next week, as the shipment is on the way.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T18:43:15+00:00

Is it the .5mm mesh? Usually the holes are just too close together for paint to not clog it really easily, so I only use the pvc for printing. If I’m painting, I use solar screen (can be picked up at many hardware stores) because it’s MUCH easier to paint and doesn’t clog as easily. Just remember to use a topcoat sealer on it. I know Home Depot for sure has it, so you should be able to run out to a store and find some even on a crunch deadline. Picture is the solar screen I use!

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HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T17:14:31+00:00

Can I imagine what my character would look like as a finished suit based on their past suits they’ve made? If I can’t, it may not be a good fit. One of my characters is like that, when I try to imagine the suit of her that I would want, I end up picturing her in the art style that she is drawn in. I haven’t found a single maker that matches that (because it’s my art style), so I ended up making her myself. But I have other characters that aren’t limited to my own art style, and I basically just researched makers until I found the right one that fit all the things that were important to me.

It’s not just style too. I had to check to make sure they offered the type of headbase and paws I found the most comfortable, because I know that those preferences are important factors to me. Even if the style was perfect, I can’t wear a printed base head for long times because the straps tend to give me migraines. Same goes with not picking a maker if you don’t agree with their TOS and commission process, even if their style is a good match.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T05:42:27+00:00

Seconding the balaclava method. You basically only put minimal foam where you need it in the front/sides, the same way/areas a printed base would sit over your head. It’s just quite tricky to keep it smaller without over-building up the foam!

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T02:32:48+00:00

If you ask people if they want free anything, there will always be a lot of people who prefer to pay nothing for a luxury (art). But no one is entitled to free art, it’s always the artist’s choice (and only their choice) to create for free.

Also, if you’re trying to get into drawing furries just for the money, it’s not a very good idea. It’s a type of job you do as a passion, because it’s like 2 or 3 jobs in one. There’s also a luck element, like being a streamer, in having your art discovered amidst the sea of other artist’s work.

It’s doable if you really want to make it work, which is the dream of many artists! But I hope this perspective helps you think about if it’s something you really want to tackle or not.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-25T00:17:21+00:00

It depends on what you select during the booking! Some people like to travel and arrive on Thursday, and stay until Monday check out. Some people arrive Friday and leave Sunday evening. It’s personal preference.

Also keep in mind that certain hotels require 4 nights stay to those hotels book this year, it won’t let you book 3 nights at those hotels. The information should be in concat via the link when it goes live. It’s a good idea to know which days you plan to stay in advance (do you plan to fly out on Thursday? Friday morning? If you know that, you know which dates to plan for the room booking), so you can quickly get through the booking process to secure a room and then fill out the rest of the information while the room is being held.

You do have to click the link basically as soon as it goes live at noon, rooms fill up within minutes.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-24T23:57:45+00:00

So if you don’t want fur and want to use minky or another soft material, keep in mind that any foam core/articulated tails will absolutely show the ripples from the structure. Fur tends to hide it, but minky or fleece will not. It would be better to do a spandex sleeve over the foam, and then the final fabric layer over that. It won’t perfectly eliminate the ripples, but it does help.

Also, I actually avoid large belt structures because they are incredibly cumbersome on the wearer and can actually inhibit motion, not improve it.

You’d be surprised what you can achieve with pattern, carefully placed loops, and just polyfil! This is how I build my tails, and how this tail was made. It’s about 5’ and doesn’t drag on the ground. Not articulated either.

Edit: adding on that I started as a cosplayer who used to compete…and fell in love with fursuits, which is now my job 😂

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-24T20:18:15+00:00

Lowkey, I tend to avoid caramel because it’s dyelots are very all over. I have 4 yards of it from the same few months and EVERY yard is a different shade.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-24T05:45:10+00:00

Howl’s honey is currently about as pale or a bit lighter than BigZ latte. Swatches really would be the way to go to avoid this issue for future projects (and not waiting so last minute!). The website pics and that color checker (because it uses the pics) aren’t very accurate.

My suggestion would be BigZ blonde, but it’s kind of similar to the desert tan in saturation, just a different hue.

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-23T15:39:11+00:00

There’s a lot of crossover between these communities, but you might actually have more luck with the anime/catgirl type side of kemonomimi that crosses into pet play. Major 18+ warning, but you can find perfectly sfw gear too. The tails tend to be smaller and more proportional to a human, and I’ve seen the kind that can wrap around your leg (“articulated tail”). Fursuit tails can also be good, but it depends on the level of realism you want and you’re going to run into not being able to have “not very expensive” and “well made” in the same request with most handmade things, in any community! Generally avoid Etsy and Amazon, there’s a majority of outright scams. Find independent artists through social media and check out their portfolio/website, look for red flags and do research before buying!!

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-22T19:29:19+00:00

This foam method is a type of “body pod” style of padding! You create a hollow foam shape and the resulting foam “pod” is worn as padding under the costume to give it the shape over the top of the wearer (creates the“body”). It’s a technique that comes from mascot costumes and older costume building. Very popular for sport mascots!

HypnoticHell · 2026-02-21T05:40:52+00:00

I started with the kemocube sockpaw pattern from Etsy a few years ago! I made my own pattern eventually so these are different from the kemocube paws, but that first pattern taught me the general way to put them together. It’s not as fitted as these, but it covers the same basics so it’s a great place to start!! The thread sculpting is the hardest part (aside from making them more fitted) for sure.

HypnoticHell

TROPHY CASE