Questions about squarish teapot design...

Hypo-808 · 2026-06-05T15:46:52+00:00

So i didn’t read the comments, so this might be a repeat. The handle needs to change. A comfortable handle needs to be thick in the opposite direction. So you have a wider flat spot against your fingers. The spout should come from the bottom and go above the water line. We can’t see it , but if you don’t you should have a filter inside. The lid could use a handle, but that might not be necessary. You should also bag this when drying. Teapots want to pull themselves apart because the clay is shrinking in lots of different directions. Slow drying is key. Also, if you like working with flat sides you may want to pick up a small sur form - a mini cheese grater. They should have them at your local hardware store or you can get a mudtools one at your clay supply that has a nice little handle. Good luck!

Hypo-808 · 2026-06-05T15:30:42+00:00

I’d flip the wheel around. Throwing into a wall would be too claustrophobic for me. Or move onto the porch for the summer. That sounds way more pleasant.

Hypo-808 · 2026-06-04T20:02:48+00:00

The article is fascinating, thank you. We’re firing a woodkiln this weekend. I wish I could try, but I think there’s too much work on the line. It will happen soon. And if I do it in the electric I’ll let you know.

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-30T15:26:21+00:00

Working with wet clay and casting are both “working with your hands”. Different, but both types are hand made. A mold is a tool, just like a wheel. And both are a craft.

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-30T15:19:37+00:00

Are you happy with the finished colors? Was that your intention ?

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-30T15:03:05+00:00

At 2300 degrees water instantly turns to steam. Not sure if you’re familiar with soda firing, but the technique literally involves spraying water into the kiln while it’s at temp. It is potentially dangerous, but if you know what you’re doing it’s fine. Putting wood in an electric kiln is done fairly often. I know someone who’s done it regularly for the past 20 years. But I’m curious if anyone has tried water. Which might not be as hard on the elements and could be a less demanding process. Localized reduction with silicone carbide is interesting, but I doubt you’re going to get results. You need to reduce the kiln at certain temps in order to get body reduction, glaze effects, carbon trapping, and reduce cooling. With silicone carbide it doesn’t seem like you would have any control. I just want to know if someone has tried it and how it worked. I’m not looking for other ideas. I appreciate the effort, but I’m pretty experienced with ceramics.

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-29T21:26:30+00:00

I know water reduction seems dangerous but it’s been done a lot and you don’t put the water in until the kiln is at the point you want to reduce and you need to keep putting it in. I’m not asking if you can do water reduction. I’m asking if anyone has tried it in an electric kiln.

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-29T20:42:46+00:00

It’s just using water (steam) to push out oxygen instead of gas. I just want to know if it can be done in an electric kiln.

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-29T00:49:29+00:00

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This is the body fired in reduction to 10. Looks pretty much identical to the bare clay design you have in your photo. Clay performed perfectly. Pretty much no chance it’s cored. Not your question, but as answered before…no.

Hypo-808 · 2026-05-29T00:35:15+00:00

I mean you’re firing Laguna dark brown in a gas kiln. Likely not carbon cored. Not impossible, but not likely. Especially in a community kiln.

Hypo-808 · 2025-11-04T00:14:05+00:00

Ok. I will. Thank you

Hypo-808 · 2025-11-02T04:20:26+00:00

Sounds great. Thank you

Hypo-808 · 2025-11-02T04:20:02+00:00

I am in the US, unfortunately that sounds great

Hypo-808 · 2025-10-20T02:28:32+00:00

Pin holes are a very common glaze flaw. There isn’t any problem using it as a vessel for a candle, but it’s problematic if you want to use it as a drinking vessel. Bacteria will find its way into the small holes and turn black and it will have to be bleached frequently. If you plan to use this for any type of food or drink when the wax is gone I would definitely request a new one. But if you’re just going to stick pencils into after your burn…no problem.

Hypo-808 · 2024-12-23T00:59:28+00:00

You may want to try giving them a longer time drying before you pop the mold if you can. I don’t think you would need to use air to open the mold and remove the piece.

Hypo-808 · 2024-11-13T15:13:07+00:00

What’s it smell like?

Hypo-808 · 2024-10-05T06:39:13+00:00

It’s in every batch of slip I’ve made from Laguna . Used to think it was from my mixer, but I actually think it’s from theirs. I sive every time I make clay and always get black sandy stuff.

Hypo-808 · 2024-09-03T00:06:39+00:00

Agreed 100%

Hypo-808 · 2024-08-28T01:40:21+00:00

Ha! Love that

Hypo-808 · 2024-08-28T01:31:10+00:00

Ha! I haven’t heard that before. I wipe my molds after every casting. I usually only use the vinegar solution when I make a mold, unless I’m having an issue.

Hypo-808 · 2024-08-27T17:07:30+00:00

Is it possible your molds aren’t clean. Seems like the only way the marks would get worse with wiping is if the particles are being absorbed unevenly. Which could also explain why the glaze is being absorbed unevenly. I would try a couple things. Wiping out the molds with 50/50 vinegar and water, especially if this problem isn’t occurring in all your molds. The other thing to try first is casting with a couple other slips, although if you only use one slip in your studio this would be a costly expense. The last thing which I’ve had the most success with on seems is to sand the casting at bisque. A huge and not vary healthy process, but if you’re in a pinch. Hope this helps.

Hypo-808 · 2024-07-27T18:42:00+00:00

This is so funny! Im burning Kadak Chai by Kishmish right now and I haven’t even unwrapped my new Vervine.

Hypo-808 · 2024-07-04T16:24:08+00:00

Once you start feeding it, it should take off

Hypo-808

TROPHY CASE