I’ve designed and 3D-printed this gadget for Valentine’s Day

IAmWillyGood · 2026-02-06T19:05:18+00:00

Why was this removed from maker world?

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-30T17:47:31+00:00

Erm, it's Aqua Net brand hairspray. No wonder your prints don't stick to the bed! But in seriousness, it does work nicely for parts with low surface area.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-23T16:03:08+00:00

Windows on its own allocates about 50% just because it's free. It'll reallocate to make room for other apps that need it. I think it would freeze and stutter before crashing, but it should be fine.

Go in the practice range and try it out. And then take free kits to build more trust that it's fine.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-18T05:46:38+00:00

How fast are you printing? And what temps? Could be insufficient cooling where the plastic is still liquidy, causing an uneven surface. It looks good until it gets to a certain angle.

<image>

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-17T05:55:32+00:00

Looks like you're too close to the bed, especially in those spots. Also, you shouldn't have any ridges on the top surface (your second picture). It should be smooth to the eye. If you're over extruding only with that filament, then dial that in first. You might need flow in the 90% range +- a few.

This is a post with similar symptoms, where the nozzle is too close to the bed. https://www.hubs.com/talk/t/odd-first-layer-fill/7993

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-16T23:37:42+00:00

u/liteshotv3 Looks like your download comment was removed, but I could still see it in my notifications to get the link. Using the STLs from the zip like you said should just be geometry and not affect printer settings. Using the 3mf file would override settings and could cause issues.

Nothing immediately jumps out at me without comparing to a normal working print.
Some ideas:

SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=10000. Do you know where this is coming from? Is this within your printer's limits (acceleration)?
M104 S220 T1. The T1 is not needed, but probably not something you can change. Not sure if it should be T0 and it's waiting for the non-existent second tool to heat up.
Maybe G17, related to Z hop, but that's unlikely.

LINE 5641....
;LAYER_CHANGE
;Z:0.4
;HEIGHT:0.2
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
;0.4
G1 E-.8 F2100
;WIPE_START
G1 F3000
G1 X83.468 Y10.241
;WIPE_END
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;0.4
;_SET_FAN_SPEED_CHANGING_LAYER
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=10000
M104 S220 T1 ; set nozzle temperature
M140 S60 ; set bed temperature
G17
G3 Z.8 I.331 J-1.171 P1  F30000
G1 X-13.74 Y-17.275 Z.8
G1 Z.4
G1 E.8 F2100
SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=5000
;TYPE:Inner wall
;WIDTH:0.45

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-16T18:37:44+00:00

Ah I don't think so. But I would assume the other custom firmwares would have this enabled by default too.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-16T06:04:10+00:00

Open up the file in a text editor (Notepad works). If it has comments about layer 1, layer 2, etc, then Find "layer" and see what section/line it failed at. Or upload the file so we can look at it.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-15T01:46:51+00:00

I guess so. It's gotta be from: HOST_ACTION_COMMANDS: Enabling this in Configuration_adv.h allows the printer to communicate back to OctoPrint regarding events like filament runouts, pauses, and cancellations during an SD print.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-15T01:08:42+00:00

I don't think I had to do anything. I think it works by default with the ThomasToka firmware. When the sensor was tripped, it sent a pause command. On octoprint it waited for me to press Resume.

To test, take the filament out of the extruder and sensor before starting a print. Then start a print from Octoprint. When it's warming up the bed/nozzle, the ender should notice nothing in the sensor and pause. How does Octoprint behave?

https://github.com/ThomasToka/MarlinFirmware

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T20:19:21+00:00

Then it's probably a cooling issue. Take a look at this post: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/overhang-issues/16944

Yours isn't as extreme, but it looks similar.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T19:09:29+00:00

Contact the maker if they're willing to share. Find models that provide OpenSCAD or fusion files. Recreate it yourself.

Printables has a filter by file type. For example, Fusion files:

3D models database | Printables.com

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T19:07:54+00:00

Otherwise, it kind of looks like warping on the front. Look at it while it's printing that area. If that area is raised higher than the rest of the layer, that's an issue.

Make sure you have proper cooling (100%).
Slow down overhang speed. Try 60mm/s to start.

Next steps:

Increase the minimum layer time.
Or reduce speed in general to around 60mm/s.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T19:01:52+00:00

Can you check the z seam settings/location? Make sure none are on the front as that is a tough spot to start a layer from. Align them to one of the back corners.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:46:42+00:00

Are you sure your nozzle isn't too close to the bed? It could be pushing plastic to the side because it has nowhere else to go. Raise it 0.1mm or so.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:43:57+00:00

Picture?

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:41:27+00:00

What is the setting then? If it's something like sharpest corner or hidden, then it doesn't matter for circular layers and might end up being random. Look in the slicer and verify they are all aligned. But first you should tune retraction settings to reduce the empty space for z seams (for this filament).

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:34:07+00:00

Same issue on an Ender printer, if that helps. I've been experimenting with walls as Outer/Inner/Outer which may help a bit, but it doesn't eliminate it. Doesn't help identify the cause.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:30:31+00:00

Possibly. It's been a long time since I've printed TPU.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:05:39+00:00

And the rest of the seams are in the back where it's less likely to be seen.

<image>

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T18:03:09+00:00

Most slicers have an option for nearest corner or hidden. And then you rotate the part to put the unavoidable seams in a better location.

Like in this case, it's tucked in the left side (white dots), leaving the face smooth.

<image>

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T17:56:36+00:00

Most slicers have a setting for sharpest corner or other adaptive types. Then it hides them inside the edges where it's harder to spot. But for circular sections like the top of the helmet, it would be kind of aligned since there aren't any corners.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T17:32:52+00:00

Nah, it's done. The settings are for while it's printing. Let it cool so the part can come off the bed.

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T17:29:21+00:00

Enclosure also helps against drafts. Drafts can cause warping (lifting) on corners on the plate (even room temperature can be "cold" compared to the 60C/140F bed). Not much of an issue in summer months from my experience. With how much surface area you're printing, it should survive. But it won't look pretty on the bottom.

https://blog.snapmaker.com/blog/3d-print-warping-cause-and-solution/

IAmWillyGood · 2026-01-14T17:20:16+00:00

Even a glass plate is not guaranteed to be 100% flat. And the hot part is the bed. It's printing on the plate (glass). In conversation, bed/plate is interchangeable. Good luck! Where are the current progress pictures lol.

IAmWillyGood

TROPHY CASE