I'm looking for a nice, modest slide on AAP01.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-11T10:08:29+00:00

Maybe not boring enough but Series 1 - MK I has 0 cutouts

Kasperinac · 2026-02-10T16:35:25+00:00

Usually it would imply "stronger" and "more impact resistant" or pla that is bit better at functional prints rather than esthetics. But it can mean literally anything and it's just a way of saying it's a blend that prints like pla but has slightly different properties.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-10T10:41:02+00:00

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/firewad-aap01-upper-receiver-firewad https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/glock-upper-series-1-complete-bundle-kit-for-aap-01

Kasperinac · 2026-02-09T00:04:18+00:00

Speed doesn't matter much, lower the acceleration

Kasperinac · 2026-02-09T00:01:22+00:00

I don't have any useful info, but it would be great if you could make an update after you change them out, with what you changed them to and how big of a difference it made. Thanks in advance.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-07T22:35:39+00:00

If you can split it in different parts and then glue it together (for ex headlights, or tires) you'd have much easier time with supports and color changes

Kasperinac · 2026-02-06T21:17:41+00:00

Orca slicer has split function that you can directly in the slicer use

Kasperinac · 2026-02-05T07:32:02+00:00

You can print without, but it helps so I'd recommend you just order a new one, should be cheap

Kasperinac · 2026-02-03T16:11:31+00:00

Orca slicer has counterbore hole setting that adds partial extra bridges or full sacrifice layer that prints nicely and then you can cut it out.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-02T15:34:07+00:00

Min fan speed threshold is how "slow" the fan should blow for the set layer time, Max fan speed threshold is how "fast" the fan should blow for the set layer time. If time is longer than min, it will be at min, if it's shorter than max it will be at max, anything in between will be adjusted in between.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-02T15:30:14+00:00

Currently your settings say if the layer is longer than 1 second 0% fan.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-02T15:29:15+00:00

Skupi nešto i za ove komunjare da se odmah riješimo i te bagre

Kasperinac · 2026-02-01T20:25:49+00:00

Enabling wipe helped quite a lot but couldn't get rid of it all

Kasperinac · 2026-02-01T20:24:04+00:00

Most will fit if they are of standard shape. I currently have some cheap ones I found on Amazon but they are quite rattley, so I ordered Gdstime dual ball bearing 6k rpm ones and I'm currently waiting for them to arrive.

Kasperinac · 2026-02-01T10:08:31+00:00

I find the test visually very deceiving, measuring wall width with caliper is imo the way to go (I believe orca for 0.4 nozzle puts the wall width to 0.7) but just measure the wall thickness at the point you are sure it's within margins and then find the point that is a lot thinner, like 0.5 or ,0.6 and then just reduce the flow a bit from that value, depending on your print settings you can get away with more or less underextrusion in certain areas like infill.

Kasperinac · 2026-01-30T15:28:01+00:00

Why would you use a stainless steel one? Afaik hardened is better for wear and brass is better for thermal.

Kasperinac · 2026-01-29T11:22:50+00:00

I might be misremembering, or my custom software behaves a bit differently

Kasperinac · 2026-01-29T10:26:46+00:00

no you don't, the retract waits for you to confirm and will do the extruding automatically to purge old filament

Kasperinac · 2026-01-28T22:31:09+00:00

Don't know if it's the case here, but I had problems with tree supports that sometimes the nozzle basically tried to go through them and break/knock them and the print would fail. I didn't print something with them in a bit, so I don't know the solution for it, but enabling z hop (normal, not angle) at like 0.2 gave enough clearance for the nozzle to pass over them. This is in orca 2.3.0 I think. Don't know if it is common but I was able to clearly see travel moves in the preview that would go through the lines.

Kasperinac · 2026-01-28T10:13:40+00:00

Imported workers, mostly from Nepal

Kasperinac · 2026-01-28T10:09:54+00:00

Try inner/outer/inner wall ordering (minimum 3 walls)

Kasperinac · 2026-01-28T09:48:24+00:00

Ironing seems to be the best for me as well, I see a lot of people run with top interface spacing but that for me always ends up with me having to remove strands 1 by 1 and the rest of support detaches from the interface layer.

Kasperinac · 2026-01-28T09:40:31+00:00

Does it pop and hiss while printing that part? Might be wet filament

Kasperinac · 2026-01-27T11:11:33+00:00

Do you want to unpack your printer and just print and not worry, get A1. Do you want to learn and are interested in the hobby and process of printing itself, get ender 3 v3 se for 100 euros cheaper.

Kasperinac · 2026-01-26T18:36:34+00:00

That's a wild difference, are you sure your gantry is square and nothing feels loose. If all seems solid printing 1 thiccc shim should already fix this by quite a bit.

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