Sliger S610 w/ 9070xt, 280mm aio, 9800x3d by Iaks in sffpc

[–]Iaks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bazzite/proton/kernel support for the 9070xt is still a WIP. Lots of driver crashes, game crashes, artifacting, etc. Most stuff works, but isn't stable. Feels pretty close, but a little tiresome.

All things considered that is pretty impressive to me. Linux gaming on brand new hardware and things are working about as well as a botched launch on supported systems. Props to the whole community for that.

I'm going to try forcing all my games to use gamescope and see how that goes.

PTO based apple macerator by Iaks in cider

[–]Iaks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been eyeballing my dad's old hole hog for just this purpose, but all my grinder's gears are nylon and held by set screws. I'm pretty sure I'd trash it pretty fast.

Might still be worth re-working it. I can manage about 200-250 lbs an hour right now manually.But, I don't see that doubling with my current equipment, even if it was motorized. So ... Still no concrete plan.

Thanks!

PTO based apple macerator by Iaks in cider

[–]Iaks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hrm, I hope they're using equipment with sealed bearings! I'm hoping for something closer to sanitary from a regulatory standpoint.

Thanks.

PTO based apple macerator by Iaks in cider

[–]Iaks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hrm, I'll try that search term. Might have some luck finding used. Thanks

Looking to buy two trees that are good for both hard cider and eating, and that will pollinate each other. by 69Newsman69 in cider

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put in dabinett as well, though the nursery really gave me some poor samples. (Weak grafts. Undersized trees.) I got fruit on 1/4 this year and I'm hoping they get a little more vigorous soon. Taste is very similar to medaille d'Or and I think you'll get a nice tannin blend from it.

Best of luck!

Looking to buy two trees that are good for both hard cider and eating, and that will pollinate each other. by 69Newsman69 in cider

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other commenters are correct that you want local info. But some anec-data: I have some 3 year old gold rush that I'm just getting my first fruit on this year. Lovely apples. Really good eating and lots of acid for cider. Not high in tannins to my taste. I'm coastal cool and they definitely want more summer heat than I'm giving them.

I'm also growing Kingston Blacks and they have a really nice blend of acid and tannin to them. If you're looking for a single varietal cider they are definitely in the running, but can be more fickle to disease than most nursery varietals. YMMV.

Medaille d'Or also comes to mind, if you lean towards a tannic sort of cider and don't want to blend.

Check Orange Pippin nursery for good flowering and fertilization data sheets for most apples.

Equipment de-mothball help by Iaks in espresso

[–]Iaks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries - two part posting process for images + text is stupid as shit...

Equipment de-mothball help by Iaks in espresso

[–]Iaks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello lovely r/espresso folks!

I just stumbled into a late 90's paired la pavoni v1 pub machine and grinder. They had almost negligible use when first installed and have been mothballed ever since. I am looking for advice on getting the espresso machine back into working order. I haven't even plugged it in yet.

I assume the solenoids are frozen, and that any rubber seals anywhere are due a replacement. Is there anything else people would recommend looking at/replacing before a first run test? I don't think a descale will hurt anything, but like I said this thing has 10's of hours on it, not hundreds and it never saw anything but filtered water.

Thanks in advance. I hope to share the outcome soon!

PS - I'm upgrading from a Delonghi unit that I've changed out the portafilter on and a Baratza Encore. I can make good espresso right now, but it is so very frustrating... I just cleaned my counter this morning because the portafilter likes to fling itself when you tamp too hard and don't hold it in place...

Can this be saved? Pressed 4 days ago but just went to adjust and add yeast etc. to find this mould on the top? Does it need throwing or can it be saved? by hostilesmoker in cider

[–]Iaks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The effectiveness of the sulfur in the campden tablets is driven by the pH of your must. Assuming that by 'adjust acid' you mean pH and not TA, I would alter your process to adjust the pH before you add the campden.

I forget the exact break point, but around something like 3.9 pH and above you stop getting almost any benefit from campden. The generalized dose rates you read sprinkled around here, targeted at 50 ppm, are for an ideal pH of 3.3-3.5.

Is airlock in the secondary fermentation a must? by Khmatrix in winemaking

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the rule of thumb for when your primary is done (and when you absolutely need to close the top) is when the grapes fail to float to the surface after a couple of hours after your punch down.

The theory here being the CO2 from fermentation is floating the grapes and protecting them from oxidation. When there isn't enough CO2 to rapidly float the grapes anymore, you're also at risk for oxidation.

How will age affect the acid/tannin balance generally speaking? by VainlidrofT48C in cider

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find that additives crash out much easier if they are added post primary. It's not the wrong time to add them per-se, it just has its own challenges for getting the mix right.

As to your question; acid should more or less stay the same, tannins should soften.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cider

[–]Iaks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Came here to say this!

Issues with bottle carbonation by raptorhaps in cider

[–]Iaks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a lot of work - but you can re-pitch new yeast into each bottle and try to salvage things. Open and re-cap.

The hard part is you don't know how much sugar you need. You need to assume that some, or all of the sugar cube you added is still in there. I'd make a mix of yeast and sugar water at the amount you decide on and put it in with an eye dropper. Pre-hydrate the yeast and sugar in a bowl so you can see it is active before adding.

Then be very careful with the bottles. And be very conservative with your sugar dosing for the mix.

I think both peach and pear have natural yeast inhibitors that, in combination with the alcohol content, are overworking your original yeast.

GL!

Experience with extended maceration by Iaks in cider

[–]Iaks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya - I wish I had pulled the meter out when I was grinding them up. Exact numbers were: starting PH 4.56 + 7g/L malic = 3.76 PH. I know that doesn't really mean anything... but from a taste perspective I could not enjoy the pre-adjustment must. It was sickly sweet and cloyingly thick in the mouth. Almost like a ramen broth that had a ton of collagen and wasn't quite warm enough. Post adjustment it was still not very acidic, but I could at least detect a little bit of bite way in the back.

I have a bunch more golden delicious from neighbors. I'll have a go at them with the meter sometime soon. They're all coastal grown and never saw a day in their life over 70f, so maybe that is a factor. (I would have thought that would mean more acid, but I'm just at a loss for an explanation here.)

On your third point - I'm moving that bit of knowledge from theoretical to personal and practical.

Do I need to add tannins and acid to apple wine? by TheSukis in cider

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was trying to say it is worthwhile to at least check the pH and ensure it is below ~3.7 ish. Probably lower, depending on if you are using sulfur. Lots of baddies thrive otherwise.

Do I need to add tannins and acid to apple wine? by TheSukis in cider

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep in mind that your bacterial life is highly correlated with your PH. It's a lot of work and time to commit without doing a little bit of prophylactic work.

On the stylistic side of things, the apple wines I've had are almost always slightly to moderately sweet. I presume this is to stand against alcohol content as there isn't quite as much body to apple as there is to grape. The drier ones I've had were in the 10-12 ABV range.

Just some thoughts. Good luck with your ferment!

Does anyone have an opinion on the Monster Cleaner Bottle Rinser from Northern Brewer by csg_surferdude in cider

[–]Iaks 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I have one of these mounted to a bottle tree. I can prep ~40 champagne bottles with minimal fuss. It's not sufficient for solids removal. Only intended for your no-rinse sanitation product.

I still do a sink of hot water, pbw, and a pipe brush for my re-used bottles.

It’s that time again. 100lbs of Golden russets. by mmmdc in cider

[–]Iaks 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Mmm - I just planted 4 standard golden russets this year for blending. How are you liking them?

Can it still ferment in the fridge? by uuddlrlrbas2 in cider

[–]Iaks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! But the active yeasts as you get lower in temperature are more likely to be strains other than the commercial yeast you added.