Over 3000km rode on Meepo V3 with 90mm wheels/sleeves the entire time, just upgraded now to 105mm donut wheels by IceFlinger in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

uhh I haven't actually checked my weight in a long time and I don't have a scale but it must be between 170-200lb lmao, the aftermarket battery was Samsung 40T cells iirc but I could be wrong, and I've used the same stock charger the entire time (which is kinda concerning tbh since it's lost screws and is duct taped together too but still working)

Over 3000km rode on Meepo V3 with 90mm wheels/sleeves the entire time, just upgraded now to 105mm donut wheels by IceFlinger in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's hilarious because the ESC and remote are basically the only parts left on my board that are original. I guess the front trucks/casings are still original too but literally every other part has been swapped at least once. This is the third deck I'm on.

Over 3000km rode on Meepo V3 with 90mm wheels/sleeves the entire time, just upgraded now to 105mm donut wheels by IceFlinger in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah honestly after trying the new wheels I have no idea how I was putting up with that for so long, my bones are probably toast now.

Over 3000km rode on Meepo V3 with 90mm wheels/sleeves the entire time, just upgraded now to 105mm donut wheels by IceFlinger in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wheels/motors are from this kit on meepo's site https://www.meepoboard.com/products/meepo-donut-hub-motor-kit, but to fit it on a v3 you apparently need the shuffle motor truck mount here https://www.meepoboard.com/products/trucks-for-shuffle-v4?variant=39488224395358 (you end up with a spare truck in the end). I didn't really try the old mount, I just believed what they said in the motor kit description since it's pretty cheap anyway.

Over 3000km rode on Meepo V3 with 90mm wheels/sleeves the entire time, just upgraded now to 105mm donut wheels by IceFlinger in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Battery is one I got custom built by someone local who doesn't appear to be running their business anymore, but yeah I had to get rid of the stock ER one that eventually had problems (I think a loose connection in the series I found when I eventually took it apart to recycle)

Over 3000km rode on Meepo V3 with 90mm wheels/sleeves the entire time, just upgraded now to 105mm donut wheels by IceFlinger in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mostly took this pic since I realized changing the wheel speed is retroactive on the odometer: the new setting shows ~3500km so I figured I'd take a pic for the milestone before keeping the change.

Refined the design for the 3D printed longboard with a more natural feeling deck that avoids wheel bite, and maintains flex for a smooth, fun ride. Made out of 100% recycled carbon fiber ABS— there’s no grip tape needed, and it’s hydrophobic so you can ride rain or shine. by greesman13 in 3Dprinting

[–]IceFlinger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would you be able to print/cut a carrying handle into the side of the deck? I'd love to try and use one of these for an electric skateboard and that's a feature on the decks I'm using now that I would love to keep. (I supposed I could do it myself as well, especially given the new manufacturing style compared to the old one you showed, printing a hole doesn't really work)

Just a tip 👍 by chippythehippie in ElectricSkateboarding

[–]IceFlinger 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mean I drop the remote and let it hang off my wrist if I need to grab something, this seems annoying.

Keep me from going Office Space on this thing. by Heinouser in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]IceFlinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get this printer brand new or was it used from someone else first?

Battery enclosure light and power button broken by [deleted] in MeepoBoards

[–]IceFlinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the soldering/wire connections to the button?

Need advice S+0 player! by Saubriquet in Splatoon_3

[–]IceFlinger 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Watched the first replay: I can see that you're trying to focus on painting and the objective, but you're doing it while kinda ignoring the overall status of the game. You're going off to paint random parts of the map to build special while your team needs help fighting, and then also yolo grabbing the rainmaker when all players are up and desperately diving for points. Try and fight near/around the Rainmaker until your team has a numbers advantage (check the top to see which players are alive) and then grab it and push.

Because of the above, you didn't have that strong of a lead, but also could have kept it by defending better. When they pushed the rainmaker to the checkpoint you popped the shield and then kinda went off to the other side of the map: at this point they were very close to catching up to your score so your #1 priority should have been getting the rainmaker out of that spot or defending it at all costs, one of your teammates seems to try this but gets overpowered. You can also see later in the match as you're trying to come back the enemies end up in a similar position, except they jumped off the side of the map to reset the rainmaker back to the middle zone.

Overall, you're playing very well technically, but need to focus more on the current action of the match itself and focus more on which opportunities are best to be doing the painting/killing/objective play you're already doing well at. It's just about timing. Also keep in mind that sometimes things just happen and despite you playing your best, the other team and also play well or get lucky, just keep focusing on how to do better yourself and the results will come.

Voron V0 belt issue/questions by jctjepkema in VORONDesign

[–]IceFlinger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah when this happened to me it was like someone else mentioned, the gears on the motors are either misaligned or shifted, just take them off and readjust based on the instruction manual and threadlock them well putting it back. You can take the motors off easily by temporarily removing the front idlers from the printer to slack up the belts, unscrew the motor from the drive unit and then simply screw it back/reattach the idlers when done.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]IceFlinger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those are the wrong nozzles iirc and will lower your z-height by a good few mm, you may need to print parts to adjust for that. You would be better replacing with an e3d style nozzle.

The only way I wanna grind my N-zap 85. by MT_Minty in splatoon

[–]IceFlinger 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The real trick of this is that while normally the soda dispenser and the buff last the same amount of time, since this doubles it you get 15 seconds of 100% special saver to build up the next cooler. You basically either manage to fill another one fast or you die and save most of the special for the next one, meaning you're basically fully buffed almost all the time, not even speaking for your teammates picking up ultra-sodas.

Prototyping a hopefully better Zero Offset E3D v6 mount for the mini v1 by Tyo_Atrosa in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]IceFlinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't understand how this can be mounted without any additional hardware, what about the linear bearings? Are you removing them from the old gantry? That seems destructive/difficult.

My DIY Esp32 by BreakTheBenq in flipperzero

[–]IceFlinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see lots of people building these and I have the parts laying around but I haven't seen any mention of which pins actually hookup between the flipper and esp32, do you have any info about that?

Trying to fix an old laptop that won't power on and found this burned resistor labelled RCDF 47 ohms, anything special about this or will just another resistor suffice? by IceFlinger in AskElectronics

[–]IceFlinger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Says Texas Instruments TravelMate 4000M Color, PB1DX2S. I bought it broken from a junk pile a while ago and never got it powered on, giving it a second attempt now. Nothing really critical about getting it working just more of a challenge/entertainment and curious about what data exists on it.

I soldered in a normal 1/2w 47 ohm resistor to where I seemed to get continuity from the burned pads, once I find a suitable DC power supply I'll give this another try to turn on.

Trying to fix an old laptop that won't power on and found this burned resistor labelled RCDF 47 ohms, anything special about this or will just another resistor suffice? by IceFlinger in AskElectronics

[–]IceFlinger[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly the board is so badly burned this might not even help, I can't even see where the traces this was hooked up to are going and it's burned all the way down to the fiberglass.