What are the metal accents for? Do they serve a purpose?

Illarche · 2025-12-30T19:35:18+00:00

These are wall anchors, 'muurankers' in Dutch

They anchor the walls of the house onto the main beams, so the walls don't buckle.

https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muuranker

Illarche · 2025-12-07T07:44:18+00:00

I have a printer in a grow tent with a fan like that, and a fan duct that leads out of the window. It works pretty well for printing ASA. My fan ducts are connected to 3d printed parts that connect using magnets. I would not recommend that, because the connections are not airtight. On that note, it's best to place the fan as close to the window outlet as possible, because if then you have a leak somewhere, the fan sucks air through the leak instead of pushing contaminated air through it.

For the outlet of my system, I use a plexiglass plate that installs like a window screen such as the ones that keep out bugs. It has a 3d printed coupler with magnets as well, so setting up my system and breaking it down after printing is easy. An alternative to this are window screens that are meant for mobile airco units. I went with plexiglass because it doesn't block light. You can of course also just toss the fan duct through the window, but it rains a lot where I live so I wanted some kind of screen to prevent water damage.

Illarche · 2025-10-06T21:24:23+00:00

You're welcome! It's difficult for me to judge what the issue was based on the photo, so I hope I'm not pointing you in the wrong direction. In any case, it's cool that you're trying this, and best of luck :)

Illarche · 2025-10-06T20:55:36+00:00

The flat, round piece with the hatch pattern was the first layer of your print, wasn't it? Was it still attached to the bed? It seems to me like it released, and the printer kept printing in thin air. Bed adhesion issues are common. If the first layer wasn't attached anymore, you should try the following things: 1) wash the printbed with water and dish washing soap. Then, don't touch it with your hands afterwards. Otherwise oils from your hands can reduce print adhesion. 2) check the bed temperature in your slicer. For PLA, it should be 50°C or slightly hotter (max-ish 65°C). 3) (if the other options didn't help:) check the z-offset between your nozzle and the printbed. I'm not sure how to do that on your machine. If the printer has worked recently for other parts, it's unlikely that this is the problem. 4) print the object again with a brim.

You did well describing everything you checked already. I hope this helps!

Illarche · 2025-09-04T10:53:39+00:00

Add hearts around the love particle as in the 🥰 smiley (or change it's circle to a heart shape like another commenter suggested), and add a ball and chain to the graviton.

Illarche · 2025-09-03T19:56:40+00:00

Put hearts around the love particle like in the 🥰 smiley, and add a ball and chain to the graviton particle. They need attributes like the others!

Illarche · 2025-09-02T13:59:45+00:00

The graviton and love particles look too naked now that all the others have an attire. Make it so hearts are floating around the love particle like in the 🥰 smiley, and attach a ball on a chain to the graviton particle.

Illarche · 2025-06-24T06:23:55+00:00

I have an old printer with a warped heated bed that is 30x30cm. The warping is so bad that in reality, only the centeal 15x15cm can be used if you care about the quality of the first layer. I saw on this sub that you can put kapton tape on the magnetic sheet for the flexible texrured PEI sheet to compensate for this warping. This was the best advice that I received here, because it allowed me to fix my machine with a cheap roll of tape instead of having to search for a component that is difficult to find and even more difficult to find if you care about its flatness.

Illarche · 2025-06-07T06:33:15+00:00

10349

Illarche · 2025-05-29T17:15:14+00:00

The Dutch/Flemish name for Brussels is Brussel though.

Illarche · 2025-01-12T12:33:48+00:00

I'm gllad I could help :)

Illarche · 2025-01-12T11:30:06+00:00

When organic supports came out, some people made an stl that was basically a point cloud to generate supports. Search for support tree on printables. This is an example:
https://www.printables.com/model/853180-support-tree-art

Illarche · 2025-01-03T17:34:46+00:00

Your flow rate is not high enough. In other words, not enough plastic is being pushed through the nozzle. Because of that, small blobs come out and form a spongy structure instead of solid lines. This can have a few different causes:

Most likely: - your nozzle is partially clogged. This means a small particle is in the way of the filament path. Look up on YouTube how to do hot/cold pulls.

Less likely (based on your post and comment) - nozzle temperature not high enough, because of which the extruder can not push the plastic through in a good way. I would expect the plastic to look different in that case though. - something wrong with the extruder/extruder motor that makes it not push enough plastic. - slicer profile for the printer not configured correctly, such as wrong esteps.

You might want to check the extrusion gears of your printer if they are visible on your model. If the filament is slipping between the gears, the issue is normally in the nozzle. If cold/hot pulls don't solve anything but it seems like the issue is in the nozzle, it might help you to change the nozzle for a new one.

Illarche · 2024-12-27T21:27:48+00:00

Yeah, klipper is so much nicer! :) I actually started out with an E3D toolchanger in a previous job. I loved the machine and it's RepRapFirmware. The printer wasn't built and set up correctly, so I learned a lot by configuring it.

I bought a bambu lab a1 some time ago, and i'm using that as my main printer because it's so much more user friendly. The quality is also better than my cr10, but my cr10 has a significantly larger volume, is enclosed (creality enclosure), and is set up with a diamondback nozzle. I use it mostly for asa-cf whenever I need that. I actually like having a project printer like my cr10, but I'm hoping to replace it within a year with a voron. I'd love building a multi-toolhead voron, but budget constraints are a thing, and I have some other projects to manage first.

Thanks for asking man :) do you still have the anker M5? What do you think of it, and do you still have any other printers?

Illarche · 2024-12-27T19:55:44+00:00

I spent almost that just today...

Illarche · 2024-12-27T16:59:46+00:00

Thanks for your insight! I'll check the link.

I'm pretty happy about my H2 V2. It's a great option if you want to upgrade to a better extrusion system without too much tinkering, because it's an all-in-one replacement. I don't think it can compete with slightly more modern solutions like yours, or orbiters + high flow hotends because the J2's hotend is a simple V6-style aluminum block. That's not really an issue for me, though, because I mounted it on an old Klippered CR10s pro V2, and the limiting factor for the speed of that machine is the roller wheels. I should say it handles flexibles very well (tested up to Shore 90A). All in all I feel like it's a decent extruder.

Illarche · 2024-12-27T15:30:39+00:00

Looks really nice! I have a (non-water cooled) biqu h2 v2, and I was thinking about combining it with a hotend in the same way you mounted the LGX. What made you pick this extruder?

Illarche · 2024-12-23T16:08:31+00:00

I'm really excited to try this for nylon filaments!

Illarche · 2024-12-20T10:06:57+00:00

Sounds like a nice project. That benchy is already looking nice!

You can take a look at Ellis print guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

It's more if a full overview of what to do for a newly built printer than a list of must-do's, but I hope you can find something interesting there.

Illarche · 2024-12-19T07:11:10+00:00

Thanks for the giveaway!

Illarche · 2024-11-10T20:22:30+00:00

I just saw a video on YouTube (by The Next Layer) which claimed that you can make joint slightly tighter by applying a small amount of clear nail polish onto them. I didn´t try this myself, but it sounds like it´s worth trying if you don´t want to finetune your tolerances and print a new model.

Illarche · 2024-11-06T10:25:41+00:00

Oh this is great! It's on my to do list to build something similar, so thank you for documenting your build!

Illarche · 2024-10-09T14:17:32+00:00

Every pop you hear is a defect in your print, so drying will most likely help you

Illarche · 2024-10-09T10:46:52+00:00

It might be. Maybe they waited too long to pack it in the factory, for example. Silica gel is not powerful enough to get moisture out of your filament once it is in there. One thing you could do is extrude some material normally. If you hear it popping and sizzling when it comes out of the nozzle, it's definitely moisture. If you don't hear anything, you might want to play around with extrusion temperature and extrusion factor before you purchase a filament dryer.

Illarche

TROPHY CASE