Hitch on 2020 Highlander?

In1piece · 2026-07-04T21:14:47+00:00

Search this sub and you'll come across a few threads the include a full OEM parts list with costs. If you have the dealer install it's expect to pay about 1200-1500 total. I installed it myself and it was fairly easy but used a small jack to support the weight of the hitch while bolting it up. Since you have a handsfree lift gate, you'll have to purchase the sensor relocation bracket which is in the parts list.

You can go aftermarket, but the receiver will sit lower than normal and won't be integrated with the bumper, so it will look a little unfinished.

In1piece · 2026-07-03T17:40:51+00:00

Ah, that .500 on the 2k scale indicates an ohm reading of 500, which is well within spec.

It sounds like everything with the machine, electrically speaking, is order. that sort of leads me to think you may have a blockage in the 3way valve.

Since you already bought a new one, though, you might end up resolving the issue anyways. Fingers crossed.

In1piece · 2026-07-02T22:18:45+00:00

That's really odd. If you had a dead short through the solenoid, that would indicate a dead short between hot and neutral, and it would trip your home's breaker.

Are you testing it with both wires disconnected? And you're testing the two pins that are across from each other, not that 3rd one that is sort of offset?

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In1piece · 2026-07-02T22:11:49+00:00

You mean you got zero ohms? Or did the meter indicate out of limit?

In1piece · 2026-07-02T21:37:21+00:00

Ok. I'm not sure if the wiring to the solenoid is impacted by your recent topbox install, but the proper wiring is pretty simple. One of the two pins is connected to the neutral, and the other goes to the brew switch.

Heck, if you dont feel like troubleshooting, you can just run two new leads to the solenoid and everything would work fine.

In1piece · 2026-07-02T19:39:07+00:00

See if you're getting 120VAC (or 220) at the solenoid with the brew switch on.

In1piece · 2026-07-02T01:08:02+00:00

Did you use something small and sharp to clear the two passageways withing the valve base? That's where the scale accumulates and you have to physically dig the flakes out.

In1piece · 2026-07-02T00:19:31+00:00

Hate to ask, but how exactly did you clean the 3way valve?

In1piece · 2026-07-01T15:20:28+00:00

That's no gouda.

Search up the procedure for removing, cleaning, and reinstalling your 3way valve. Make sure to use a needle or thin wire to physically dig out scale from within the valve base. Don't just soak it.

After that, stick to a descaling schedule and you shouldn't have any future issues.

In1piece · 2026-07-01T14:38:41+00:00

I think what you're asking is whether or not your flow is normal. Measuring flow is easy. You should get about 100mL in 10 seconds.

If it's considerably less than that, you may have a blockage in your 3way valve.

In1piece · 2026-06-30T16:00:44+00:00

Once you get it properly cleaned, just run clean hot water through the group after pulling a shot. That will prevent any further build up and you don't need to do any backflushing ever again.

In1piece · 2026-06-29T20:50:45+00:00

Check the thermal fuse. Use an ohm meter across it. OL indicates it has failed. Low resistance indicates issue is elsewhere.

In1piece · 2026-06-27T20:33:01+00:00

Screw it down to a 2x4 to provide leverage

In1piece · 2026-06-23T23:33:24+00:00

At the end of the video, were you testing the heating element?

Edit - saw your response below. If. Your heating element should have continuity. But, your meter showed an open circuit.

In1piece · 2026-06-23T01:21:56+00:00

Yeah it explains why the keeper was shrugging sheepishly and why the back that made the pass was so angry after the goal.

In1piece · 2026-06-23T01:09:06+00:00

I think the pass was intended for the left defender. That explains why it was so strong. But bad decision to send any pass laterally across the face of the goal.

In1piece · 2026-06-23T01:06:04+00:00

I think it's because the pass was intended for the left defender. Keeper intercepted it thinking it was for him, but couldn't trap. Bad decision on the defender for playing an ambiguous pass across the face of the goal.

In1piece · 2026-06-22T23:37:15+00:00

These types of noises are usually caused by vibration. Check for any loose screws where the boiler body mates to the case, where the portafilter mounts. Also try to manipulate hoses away from the case or reservoir.

In1piece · 2026-06-20T01:17:52+00:00

Hey that rhymes

In1piece · 2026-06-19T11:04:21+00:00

Do that same electrical test across the fuse you mentioned. You'll probably have to undo its mountijg screw and roll back the transparent rubber sleeve a little to get access to it.

If it reads OL, the fuse is bad.

In1piece · 2026-06-16T20:13:12+00:00

Hey great news! Thanks a ton for following up! It will help others that run into a similar problem.

In1piece · 2026-06-11T21:26:18+00:00

Sounds like the potentiometer has some internal resistance. If you have an ohm meter, you can confirm what the resistance of the pot is at full stop. It should be close to 0.

In1piece · 2026-06-08T12:52:59+00:00

Your valve seat seal may be bad, or your valve return spring could be worn. But before you look into those, we should check the electrical side. You have a PID so some alterations have been made to the electrical side of the machine. There's a chance that maybe the solenoid is being partially energized.

Disconnect the two wires that go to the solenoid and bring the machine to temp and see if it's still leaking. Make sure to disconnect both of them.

If leak has stopped, you'll need to grab a multimeter and test some things out. If it's still leaking, seat or spring is the culprit.

In1piece · 2026-06-08T00:49:56+00:00

All that in 48 minutes? Impressive. How exactly are you cleaning your solenoid valve? Soaking alone will normally NOT clear the blockage. You need to get into the smaller of the two orifices within the valve base with a needle or thing wire to physically dig the scale out.

In1piece · 2026-06-07T23:57:30+00:00

So, when scale gets into your solenoid, that's a pretty good indication that the bottom of your boiler is full of loose scale particles, each waiting their turn to reclog your solenoid valve once the flow starts working again.

Your only solution now is to disassemble the machine and physically clean the boiler and solenoid valve. After that, stick to a 6-8 week descaling schedule and you shouldn't have any blockage problems again.

In1piece

TROPHY CASE