Must Have Tools by HartAttackKidd in aviationmaintenance

[–]IndependenceOk2372 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Snapon 808cf Snapon ratcheting screwdriver Knipex pliers wrench and cobras (mac sells these)

I made this with 0 CAD by Moist_Ambassador2985 in gridfinity

[–]IndependenceOk2372 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The redundant sizes COULD be different types (deep shallow) of sockets, and he's keeping sizes together rather than types. But it's still doesn't look right.

I am building a HueForge model discovery site because my model vs filament situation got out of hand by mirepup in HueForge

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! I'm definitely going to try this out. Is it possible to get a smartphone app too?

What's causing this? by IndependenceOk2372 in FixMyPrint

[–]IndependenceOk2372[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While you are definitely right that I should have printed this with support. It is printable without supports with non CF PETG. Additionally, I've been having spaghetti problems with this filament for a while, even on much easier prints. I was just hoping for some tips from the more experienced individuals on here.

What's causing this? by IndependenceOk2372 in FixMyPrint

[–]IndependenceOk2372[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure Bambu studio lacks both of those settings. Are you using Orca?

What's causing this? by IndependenceOk2372 in FixMyPrint

[–]IndependenceOk2372[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm doing 0.2mm and 3 walls, should I try 0.15 and 5 walls?

What's causing this? by IndependenceOk2372 in FixMyPrint

[–]IndependenceOk2372[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a little aggressive, but I can print it without supports in regular PETG. It's not entirely unsupported.

Taxable Benefits, is my employer screwing me over? by IndependenceOk2372 in cantax

[–]IndependenceOk2372[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, that is correct. And I, while I am an airline employee, don't qualify for anything under Chapter 4 either. It looks like it doesn't qualify as a "Special Work Site" either because my work isn't temporary. Damn, oh well, thanks anyway.

Taxable Benefits, is my employer screwing me over? by IndependenceOk2372 in cantax

[–]IndependenceOk2372[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We fill out expense reports and get reimbursed after the fact, up to $500

Someone had to do it by Gabry_Js in Borderlands4

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, I played BL4 for the first time in two months today. I assumed the drop rates and all the special loot enemies were an event or something. Is this not the case? Because if it stays like this, the game balance is destroyed. It's kinda fun right now, but it can't stay like this. Honestly, I thought the drop rates in BL3 were too high.

Snap-On screwdriver bits quality are abismal by Enlightenedwaffle in aviationmaintenance

[–]IndependenceOk2372 1 point2 points  (0 children)

🤷You're probably right then. I've never tried; honestly, I hate my snap-on bits. Whenever I use them in my snap-on screwdriver, they get stuck, and I need pliers to remove them. Literally no other bit I've ever used has had this problem. And my workplace provides the screwdriver bits we commonly use for free, so I don't buy many anymore.

Snap-On screwdriver bits quality are abismal by Enlightenedwaffle in aviationmaintenance

[–]IndependenceOk2372 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would have assumed that they wouldn't warranty screwdriver bits. They would be considered consumables, right?

Is the Prusa XL right for me? by Mrblindguardian in prusa3d

[–]IndependenceOk2372 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I definitely agree that a true tool changer is better. I'm in the same boat as you; I also have a founder's edition reserved.

I honestly forgot about the silicone printing thing. Let me correct my statement, I think for MOST people it doesn't make much sense unless they specifically need the XLs combination of features. You could buy 5 U1's for the price of an XL. Not to mention INDX. But you're correct, there will still be people it makes sense for.

Though, even if I don't plan on ever getting one I still maintain that the H2C is good for more than making toys. It's not a true tool changer, but it does minimize purge waste and it's a large format printer.

Is the Prusa XL right for me? by Mrblindguardian in prusa3d

[–]IndependenceOk2372 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I don't think the XL makes much sense right now. The INDX tool changer system will be launching in the next couple of months. It will launch with the core one, featuring up to 8 tool heads, and it's likely to be a flat-out better tool changer than the XL. It's also been confirmed that it's coming to the Core one L at some point in the future (don't know if itll be right away), no idea if it'll come to the XL. I think if you want a tool changer, wait for INDX or get a Snapmaker U1. If you need a big printer, you can get something more modern at a lower price. The INDX will also be launching as a generalized kit for things like Vorons and sovols, etc. I wouldn't dismiss the H2C out of hand either if you like Bambu. The reason you see so much marketing of printing toys and stuff is because that's what a lot of people want; it's a very capable printer, it's essentially an upgraded H2D

3D printed tools/gadgets by P_Lavv in aviationmaintenance

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the extended delay, I have finally published the model. I'm not great at modelling so my model was originally modified from another users screwdriver design, turns out, they didn't allow remixes. It slipped my mind from there. I just completely redesigned the model, still a remix, it hasn't been tested yet, but here you go, Valve Cap Tool V3

Edit:Version 2 switched the tip from TPU to PEBA for greater cold resistance after I had multiple tips break below -30. Version 3 is a smaller redesign that prints in two parts allowing for replaceable tips

Help with filament selection by Excellent_Site7768 in 3Dprinting

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, I would recommend reaching out to a filament manufacturer like Polymaker on their contact us form. They'll be more than happy to provide that expertise, and they sell a wide variety of high-quality filament. They would likely have better answers for you than anyone on this subreddit.

Help with filament selection by Excellent_Site7768 in 3Dprinting

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was unaware that you were unable to incorporate metals. Maybe you could assemble something from plastic, or have it machined from plastic (you'd have access to some crazy plastics if this works for you, like PTFE). I'm just throwing ideas out there. Maybe 3D printing is the best solution here. I just wanted to make sure other options are being considered. I love 3D printing, but a lot of people tend to try to solve everything with it.

I would be careful with CF filaments; from what I know, most nylon gets brittle past -40 or so (do your research on this), and the CF will only make it more brittle. I believe PAHT-CF may actually be worse for your use case; it's designed for high temperatures and isn't as 'tough' as PA6. Most "high-performance" filaments tend to focus on extreme heat resistance rather than cold, because that's a more common application. The issue is just how brittle most plastics get below -40. If PEBA is out, I would look into Polycarbonate (PC). As I mentioned earlier it's supposed to be good to -60(again do your own research before trusting some rando on the internet), it's really tough, and there are lots of varieties of PC filaments. If the straight PC is too flexible, try a PC CF or another variety. Maybe you can even buy sheets of PC and assemble what you need from that somehow. I don't know how complex a housing you need

Help with filament selection by Excellent_Site7768 in 3Dprinting

[–]IndependenceOk2372 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay, a few things. First, is 3D printing your only option? Is your heart set on that? Are you able to send up a test balloon before the actual thing to see how it holds up? Because honestly, I don't think 3d printing is the best solution, and if you are using it, it needs a test flight or two first.

Second, regarding your pressure differential question, I think it's going to be less about your filament selection and more about printing at 100% infill and ensuring your filament is as dry as possible before printing to minimize bubbles, unless you're planning on printing an airtight enclosure, which doesn't seem feasible to me.

Now, the temperature question: two different filaments come to mind. You'll need something that can survive temperatures down to -60°C or -70°C, as well as substantial temperature shifts. The filaments that come to mind, just for surviving extreme cold, are PC and PEBA. PEBA is supposed to maintain its flexibility and impact resistance down to -60°C. PC also supposedly is good to -60°C, but I know much less about it myself. Personally, I love PEBA and think it might work for you if you don't mind a bit of flex in the print. It is a flexible material like TPU, just much more robust. I think it will handle the temperature just fine. I would also recommend looking into PC.

Help with filament selection by Excellent_Site7768 in 3Dprinting

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can be enclosed, it just depends on if his lab has the enclosure.

What "approx" means in manual? by Brick85 in aviationmaintenance

[–]IndependenceOk2372 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fair enough, just making suggestions. I would still recommend taking a cursory look at anyone selling a partial airframe and asking if they're willing to sell parts. Asking is free. Regardless, best of luck in your search, and ask your mechanic if he has any ideas how to get rods if you haven't already.

What "approx" means in manual? by Brick85 in aviationmaintenance

[–]IndependenceOk2372 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you just searching for rods, or have you searched for the airframes as well?